Weight vs. mAh batteries?

I’m currently flying a 6mm motor tiny whoop, but I’m planning to mess around with the 7mm E011 soon for some low-wind outdoor flying. I’m using an Acrowhoop with a Pico Mollex battery connector and 230 mAh batteries, but I plan to upgrade to JST 2.0 soon.

How much does weight really affect a tiny whoop? Has anyone timed their flights and controlability with different mAh/weight batteries from the same manufacturer?

My choice in batteries are:

  1. 260 mAh @ 7 g
  2. 230 mAh @ 6.3 g
  3. 205 mAh @ 5.9 g

Is 1.1 g weight difference between the 205 mAh battery and the 260 mAh battery really going to make a difference in flight time and controlability?

There is literally nothing more important than weight on the tiny whoop scale, the 7mm gives a lot more leeway though, the 260 batteries may actually fly better if they can put out more amps.
If you can shave 1g off somewhere else to offset the battery though, than you’re in the money!

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If you are considering the E011, the stock battery is excellent in terms of power delivery and capacity.

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Smaller battery = better flight performance but less flight time
Bigger battery = more flight time but less performance

I value performance over flight time and just swap batteries more often. In my experience, beginners value flight time more (which makes sense as flight time is what helps you learn) as you get more experienced you want more power, you get more batteries and don’t mind having 2 minute flight times. I prefer a 2 minute flight with a lot of power to weight ratio, over a 5 minute flight flying slow like a tank any day of the week. But it’s about choices, trade offs and whatever works for you!

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@JBFPV So I assume you run 205 mAh batteries and keep your whoops without batteries under 20 g? What flight time do you get with that setup if you run your batteries down to 3.6 V no-load?

Plot twist: I run 175 mAh batteries mostly. And I’m known for having light whoops, usually 18-19 grams :slight_smile: I remove the motor plugs to get the extra grams off. However, when running 19k dark editions I find 205’s are the sweet spot. I get around 2 to 2:30 (depending on the flight, maybe 3 if I take it easy) on a 205 with dark editions. With slower motors like the banggood 59000 RPM I get around 3 minutes on a 175.

*oh and every gram does count on a whoop, you can really feel the difference. Check out my ultralight whoop build, got it down to 15.25 grams and it could powerloop at that weight… :smiley:

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@JBFPV wow your proximity skills are amazing!

If I flew around that fast I’d hit everything lol!

What are the rates and expo on your quad? I think mine are too low, but I’m just starting out.

I’m not showing my crashes in the video :laughing: sometimes I manage to hit everything as well and other times I’m on a roll and fly for a full minute like that! Honestly I’m on a roll if I can fly for 30 seconds when I fly like this. I don’t know my rates and expo out of my head, I used to use like 0.80 roll rate and 1.10 RC rate or something but since I started using super expo in Betaflight I don’t know it off the top of my head. I must confess this is all in horizon mode though! With less transition and horizon strenght. But let’s stay on topic… :grimacing:

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In those videos you have flying in those tight spaces and with those speeds… I don’t think flying in acro is possible… i cant imagine the skills you must have to do that. I don’t think horizon mode in that situation is less meritorious

When building a microquad you have a lot of possibilities, and you can play with different frame/motor/props/batteries. You can combine them in different ways to get different performances, but in order to get the best performance out from a tiny whoop, you are given only one frame and prop size, so you have way less possibilities of proper combinations with the rest of the components. Still there’s room for creativity, but of course the best recommendation is to keep it as light as you can, and that includes batteries.

For me it is impossible to get the 15gr that JBFPV gets with his ultralight whoops, dont have the soldering skills he has (fried a beecore trying to solder motors directly to the board)

I found an exception for that rule. I just tried my trusty 150mah 45c batteries in my e011, and performance was way worse than stock 260mah battery (with lower c rating)

Different brand has different rules about mah. Try to choose the branded ones, which is closer with the real.