Vaccuum forming Tin¥ ₩hoop canopies


#602

I’m old school… so I stick to a vm275t … has more than its rated 25mw power output and I got used to the extra range.

My canopies do not require a mulleted camera… but they do require an antenna going back at 90 degrees orientation. To accomplish this, I put some double sided tape on my bench and plant the camera onto it lens down. Then I take a soldering iron and apply it sideways and horizontal to the bench on the ground plane of the antenna. As the solder liquifies, I bend the antenna back 90 degrees using the tip of the iron as a fulcrum to ensure the bend point is in the right place and antenna is still contacting the ground area on the post. I remove the iron while holding a little downwards pressure on the antenna tip and the ground solder usually solidifies back not requiring any additional to be added. Hope you can kind of picture that.

Alternatively you can just physically bend it but that stresses the shielding and can lead to an early failure or by clash has some cameras that have a smaller antenna wire or even a ufl. There are also plenty of already mulleted cameras out now too.

Head over to the file section of my brushless boss thread for a sweet lightweight camera mount that works well under the canopies too.


#603

Thanks! Good to know an AIO will fit and having an example that I can check measurements against is great. I’ll grab the camera mount file, too.

I also appreciate the tip on how to bend the antenna back. I bent the antenna back on one of mine just by crashing it upside down enough times :- )


#604

I typically take it a step further, take the antenna off and solder it back on aimed downward, and then bend it back.
Or go for the crazy ultralight to save that extra 0.4g or whatever it is.

The vm275t is probably still my favorite, for the range reasons mentioned. If I recall it actually puts out more like 50mW especially at the lower frequency end.
As I recall you can cut most of the antenna mounting tab of the PCB off once you’re ultralight or have an upside down antenna, saves a few mm of vertical clearance.

The EF02 had lovely light handling but you had to mount it aimed 20 degrees to the side because they screwed up the sensor alignment, that was/is annoying.

All that said, I’m not always the best person to copy.


#605


You don’t need all that PCB on that VTX.


#606

Loving my NFE canopies.


#607

Those look fantastic! !!!


#608


Joined the party… :slight_smile:

Some 7mm BOSS series frame is also in a queue.


#609

Finally got around to building my vacuum forming box and just finished my first pull with a 3D-printed plug and a milk jug. Thanks for all the great tips here!


#610

Beautiful work there @brianquad! You could sand the print to make it more smooth, although I must say I kinda like the lines on yours, makes it look kinda like a pearl or a shell.


#611

Thanks, JB! I thought about sanding it, but figured I’d not put too much work into the plug for my first pull, in case I totally messed it up. But I kinda like the way it turned out :- )

After just a few pulls, though, that PLA plug is already starting to lose its shape at the edges (the library, where I print, only does PLA, unfortunately). I think I’ll do another canopy with a fresh plug and pour a plaster version that I’ll smooth out.


#612

If you want suggestions for good and cheap printers, just ask!


#613

Hmm…maybe I can justify that around my birthday time in a few months! What is a decent cheap one go for now? Maybe in the $100-300 range?


#614

Ender 3 by all accounts is the go to cheap printer…


#615

Not sure what the cr-10 is going for, but I’ve had the anet a8 and its served me well when I print nylon. That’s the highest I’ve gone, but it prints pla, petg, and tpu wonderfully