I hope I will not be too confusing and too long, but can’t explain some details shorter, so feel free to ask more if something is still unanswered or need better explanations (my English is also not so good… it is not my native language )
OK - let’s start with batteries: you say your battery is “fat” - you mean, it is more fat than when you started do use? If that is true, then it is puffed and it is obvious problem for lack of power. Puffed batteries are not good for use, and they are also potentially dangerous and might get into flames during charging or using. I suggest to discharge it completely and safely dispose it (I’ll not go into details about how to safely discharge and dispose LiPos here for now - it will enlarge this reply even more). HV (LiHV)batteries are special LiPo battery with different chemistry that can be charged to 4.35V (standard LiPos goes only to 4.20V - trying to charge them over 4.20 can lead to fire) and HV gives more power than standard LiPos. They are bit different in shape (so called “gumstick” shape - small LiHV’s for whoop style quads comes only in that shape) and to use them with F36, you need to buy and solder additional plug because you can’t plug than in F36 connector (no room for that due to battery shape and length, and most of HV batteries you can use in that type of quad frame does not have connector on wires). To charge HV you need special charger like this one (it works with both HV and standard LiPos): http://www.boldclash.com/boldclash-p01-whoopower1s-lihv-lipo-charger-switchable-charging-board-max-1a-mcpx-mcx-molex-charge-6-battery-black-p129.html
Also, charger you get with F36 eventually “killed” your battery because it charges over 2C so it is recommended to use real 1S chargers like the one I listed above for any type of 1S LiPos or LiHVs and avoid USB ones like these you’ve got with F36. Also that charger you have got with F36 very likely does not have any protection of overcharging because these batteries you plan to buy have voltage limiter electronic on them and they will stop charging - but if you buy any serious 1S HV or standard lipo, it is essential to have real charger and not use that USB one because most batteries does not have any overcharging protection electronics. Also, these chargers with 5 ports can work like parallel charger or like separated ports - but I don’t know what you plan to get - can you please post link to it? Because you need to avoid parallel ones because it is not very safe nor practical for beginners (for these type of charging you need to have all batteries with almost the same voltage etc. or you might have problems).
Now, 19000kv motors + FPV camera with normal LiPos that you plan to buy (150mAh) will not give you any benefit and will eventually do the opposite - they will reduce flight time significantly and you will not have any significant increase in power. For 19000kv motors you need good 1S HV batteries - especially if you add camera which also pulls lot of current - your 150mAh battery will very probbably get hot and puffed very quickly and after few flights. And yes - 19000kv 6mm motors allows you to fly outside in some windy conditions (not much wind - slight breeze is OK - those small 6mm brushed quads does not like too much wind - but with 19000kv and good HV battery you can manage a bit of windy weather).
You say your motors are hot after 15 seconds - if they are so hot that you can’t hold them with your fingers, they also might be problem - could be they are worn out. But it is more likely that your battery is problematic.
About acro: I see you actually want to fly F36 outside but as it is in its original flying mode. That is level mode flying. Acro is full control mode where you can control your quad completely and do loops, rolls etc. (please check about differences between acro and level on youtube etc. - some good explanation videos are there). So, to fly level mode with FPV camera, your current build and F36 board is fine for indoor flights, and if you use better battery and a bit better KV motors you can do level mode outside.
For real acro you can’t use controller you have got with F36 because sticks are not too sensitive for that type of control. You need some real controller - but then you will need different board becuase F36 can’t be flashed to any type of firmware that can do acro flying. That’s what JBFPV mentioned - E011C controler (not E010C! E011C - aka “Santa whoop” - it is diferent thing!) is similar to F36 but main difference is that E011C can be flashed (“hacked” as he said ) with special firmwares that support acro flying, and F36 can’t.
And to explain what FETs are - small electronic components on boards that actually control speed of rotation of brushed motors (simple explanation - I will let some hardware wizards to give some better details about FETs ). They are rated to specific amperage so you can’t use any KV motors with any FET - because if FET for example, can handle maximum of, say, 6A, and motor try to pull 10A from your battery, FET will “die” and board is unusable. Unfortunately, I have no clue how much amps FETs at F36 can handle, but we know that those on E011C, Boldclash B03, Betafpv lite, beecore lite etc. boards that supports acro hacks with, for example, Silverware firmwares, can work with 19000kv motors without problem.
Now, if you want to fly outside, maybe would be best for you to get some E011 (can’t be hacked any more - new boards are non-flashable - but for level mode flying it is OK) or E011C (still flashable with acro Silverware) type of quad with 7x16 brushed motors and stock controller. There you can put camera and it will fly level mode OK even outside in light breeze (stock 7mm motors on that quads are rather good). This one is also fantastic and can be flashed, have good motors and decent standard LiPo batteries (actually, it was first whoop-style Silverware flashable quad available - even before E011/E011C ): http://www.boldclash.com/boldclash-bwhoop-b03-pro-micro-drone-p92.html - but it is hard to get because it is constantly sold out… Then you need good 1S charger (like the one I listed above) and some goggles (ROTG can be used as a last solution but only if your phone supports it and it is fast enough to process video without stuttering and delays).