Ultralight whoop - Quick flight

I’m a big fan of the low strength horizon mode AND this frame. I did redesign it a little bit so it would fit the jst headers though. Still need the guards though - working on the jediWhooping that you’ve mastered. I can’t believe how tough it is in nylon! WAY tougher than the e010/injection molded frames.

p.s. really like the music choice and the flights!

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It’s super easy to set up… Literally two boxes to type in… Let me know when you get a board and I’ll help you out!

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Great! I like the term JediWhooping! :joy: I’ve used the one with bumpers too, makes it feel more like a traditional tinywhoop but still more agile. I’d strongly recommend removing connectors though, if your soldering skills are adequate. It saves almost 2 grams, everything is better when it’s lighter!

I’m still totally in love with the ultralight whoop, now with dark edition motors. It flies better than any of my 8.5 builds and I have crashed it a 1000 times without any damage except bent props. My frame is printed in regular ABS and I have only broken one so far, in 2 months. I have some Taulman 910 but I have been having trouble with layer bonding so I went back to ABS. I’ll try again later. What temperatures are you using?

2g! yeesh! That’s like a metric ton in The Whoop World! I have one board without headers (the gyro came “unglued” and the headers didn’t survive the paint peeler or home oven it used to reflow it. heh - neither of those methods worked - I ended up removing cleaning re-pasting). Now I have to think seriously about removing them from my other board. With this frame you don’t have to unsolder the motors to remove it (plus I can’t seem to break it) so it’s more practical.

I’m printing Taulman 910 at 255 with a 50 degree bed. I gather if you’re getting poor layer adhesion the first thing to do I make sure it dry (by baking it) and then just steadily up the temps - it can print really hot and they seem to imply most printers temp readings are higher than actual nozzle temps. I’ve never printed ABS though…

With this lighter whoop I actually prefer the 16kv motors. They seem to provide more linear performance across the battery life vs. the 18kv motors that pop like crazy in the beginning and then really slow down.

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OOOOOOKAAAAAAY - Just saw your outdoor flight video with the 15g whoop. Hot Damn.

I just placed an order some stuff from MyRCMart and was so annoyed to realize they are selling reasonably priced triblade props for the whoop (which are supposed to be better in general - but I don’t know about these in particular - but I would’ve definitely tried them).

AND THEN! I saw this: http://www.myrcmart.com/kingkong-micro-f3-brushed-aio-flight-controller-25mw-16ch-vtx-used-by-tiny6-tiny7-p-11071.html

Interesting! built in VTX but no RX … weird … but maybe great?

They’re both part of the KingKong Tiny6 and Tiny7 all of this will likely show up on Banggood with free shipping soon enough - but thought it would be interesting regardless!

P.S. That flight video wasssss epic.
My 8mm motors are just collecting dust now that 1103/2 brushless build are in the same weight range and 6/7mm motors are doing great / last much longer IMO.

@JBFPV
Hello JBFPV, you are my favourite go to person when it comes to micro quads so because of that I have a few questions. First of all I want to thank you so much for telling people about the ultralight frame. (I am currently trying to get it printed from my school.) How do I know if my brushed motors are wearing out because when I charge my battery, my battery dies within 15 seconds. I don’t know if it is the motors or the battery. Secondly I also wanted to ask, can I put 19000kv upgraded motors on my drone without buying a betaflight FC and if so how long will my battey last for (and also can I fly outdoors with 19000kv motors and can I also fly really fast with the 19000kv motors). And another question is can I use Eachine rotg1 device for FPV flying, is the delay bad or is it good enough for micro fpv flying (I can’t buy goggles because they are pretty expensive). My last question is, I cant buy a FC board so can I fly somewhat acro mode with my Furibee F36 with just upgraded motors outdoors and indoors with just fast speed?

Thank you very much JBFPV! I am looking forward for your reply

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Welcome F36.
Until JBFPV replies, here are some of my comments :slight_smile:
Regarding 15 seconds: looks like a battery problem. Do you have other one to try? To check motors, first detect are they hot after 15 seconds and are there maybe dust, hair etc. under props…
19000kv: I don’t know does F36 can work with 19000kv because it is hard to tell what FETs are on that board… but I think it can. 19000kv motors can be used outside, especially if they are 7x16. They are really fast but you need good battery - LiHV would be best - for 6mm motors up to 205mah and for 7x16mm motors 255-260mah (for 7x20 even bigger mAh…). For 7x16 and 7x20mm you need different frames.
Rotg1: I have it and latency is ok - very small and you can fly with it - but not all phones supports it. You need to check first, before buying. But you can buy some box goggles - can be found under 100$ and with built-in DVR, diversity…
Furibee F36: I have 2 of these and they can’t fly acro. These boards can’t be flashed with anything including silverware. So, only level mode with their original firmware…
And one more detail regarding acro - for acro you need some good controller like Devo, Jumper, Taranis etc.

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Hey there F36! Happy to hear I inspired you. First of all I’d like to point out the ultralight build is pretty outdated and I don’t fly the ultralight build at this point. My current whoop build is way superior in terms of performance, handling, durability and the fact that it has ducts making it safer to fly around people / stuff.
It could improve the performance of your F36 at the cost of the ducts however.

Good points by @silverAG, I’d suspect the battery first. Especially if you are using the stock batteries that come with the F36 because they are not the best performing batteries. (very cheap) My friend had a similar issue where his whoop would barely get off the ground with the stock batteries, I really thought something was seriously wrong with it until I tried one of my batteries. It shot up like a rocket, good HV batteries can make a huge difference. Also the F36 is pretty underpowered with an fpv camera. It flies and you can cruise around with it but that’s about it. It doesn’t do acro and can’t be hacked / flashed to do so.

I understood from your post you are on a budget so expensive fatshark goggles are not an option, but I wouldn’t recommend a ROTG FPV solution. There are box goggles for as cheap as $35 on banggood. Just basic without DVR but they do the job pretty good actually. You can mod them with a DVR if you are a tinkerer. Then I’d recommend an e011c for $12, because it has 716 motors which have more power and the FC can be ‘hacked’ to do acro later when you are ready. Not sure I can recommend that route to a beginner straight away tho, as it is quite complicated and not for everyone. But the e011c flies angle pretty good in stock form and it’s amazing value for money. Good HV batteries (for example: mylipo / gnb) are recommended if your budget allows. You also need a decent transmitter for acro like silver said. I’d recommend something with multiprotocol so you don’t have to worry about all the different radio protocols (frsky,dsmx, flysky), and can use Bayang which many of the cheap chinese toys use. I use the Jumper t8sg v2 plus. Great value for money.

Keep in mind you can go really cheap on things but if you end up upgrading later you’ll end up buying twice and spend more in the long run. The hacking / flashing e011c with silverware route is very very cheap, but it requires a lot of learning / research time and work from your part to get it all working. :wink:

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@JBFPV @silverAG First of all thank you so much for the fast reply. Sadly I don’t have any spare batteries just the stock one that comes with the Furibee (my stock battery is really fat for some reason). I also checked if there were any hairs or dust under the motor but there were not any. My motors get a a bit more than slightly, hot after the 15 second flight. I am trying to buy batteries (the ones that have 5 batteries with the 5 chargers 150 mah) because I think that having those 5 batteries and charging them all at once is good and you can have very nice flight time even if you have the 19000kv motors and if you have a camera installed (this is all from research I don’t know if that is the case and also can I fly the 19000kv motors outside if their is wind? ) another reason why I like those batteries is because all together they have a long flight time and because they are for 13$ on ebay. The only downfall is that I don’t know the C rating. I really want 45c rating because then I can fly really fast outdoors with upgraded motors but sadly the 45c baterries are expensive. And also what is LiHV and FETs? Another thing is that my parents will only let me buy products under 20 dollars each maximum 25 so I cannot buy the box goggles. And also, when I said acro I meant that can I fly really fast indoors and out doors with the 19000kv motors and with a camera installed with just the Furibee’s FC board but then again I don’t know if the board can handle 19000kv motors. I can’t buy the good controllers because they are really exspensive.

Thank you very much

@JBFPV @silverAG Thank you for the fast reply back! I’m pretty sure you already know that I am new to the hobby so if you could kindly explain to me in details (especially if I can add the e010c FC board) Since you are not using the ultralight frame, what is your new frame now and also could you send it to me? Also what are HV batteries? For the batteries I am thinking of buying the 5 pack 150 mah batteries that are for 13$ on ebay because of their cheap cost and because they give you a very long flight with the 5 batteries. The only downside is that I don’t think their C rating is really good, I really want the 5-pack 150 mah 45c so I can fly outdoors really fast but the problem is that they are for 27 canadian dollars on banggood. If there are any batteries that have a good C rating and are low on money can you please tell me.The e010c is for 50$ so I was wondering that could I buy just the board so I can add the upgraded 19000kv motors and with a small FPV camera? (I am sure that the e010c board can hold the new 19000kv motors just fine and that the board is better than the f36 board) and also what do you mean when you say hacked, do you mean like I can use another transmitter for the e010c board? And also when I said acro I meant that could I fly my drone outside with the 19000kv motors OUTDOORS and indoors (I am now thinking that if I should buy just the e010c FC board because it is more upgraded and can handle the 1900kv motors and with a camera hopefully. How can I ‘hack’ the e010c board) But another problem is that if I buy the e010c board then I have no controller to run it with, l’m so confused.

Thank you

I hope I will not be too confusing and too long, but can’t explain some details shorter, so feel free to ask more if something is still unanswered or need better explanations (my English is also not so good… it is not my native language :frowning: )

OK - let’s start with batteries: you say your battery is “fat” - you mean, it is more fat than when you started do use? If that is true, then it is puffed and it is obvious problem for lack of power. Puffed batteries are not good for use, and they are also potentially dangerous and might get into flames during charging or using. I suggest to discharge it completely and safely dispose it (I’ll not go into details about how to safely discharge and dispose LiPos here for now - it will enlarge this reply even more). HV (LiHV)batteries are special LiPo battery with different chemistry that can be charged to 4.35V (standard LiPos goes only to 4.20V - trying to charge them over 4.20 can lead to fire) and HV gives more power than standard LiPos. They are bit different in shape (so called “gumstick” shape - small LiHV’s for whoop style quads comes only in that shape) and to use them with F36, you need to buy and solder additional plug because you can’t plug than in F36 connector (no room for that due to battery shape and length, and most of HV batteries you can use in that type of quad frame does not have connector on wires). To charge HV you need special charger like this one (it works with both HV and standard LiPos): http://www.boldclash.com/boldclash-p01-whoopower1s-lihv-lipo-charger-switchable-charging-board-max-1a-mcpx-mcx-molex-charge-6-battery-black-p129.html
Also, charger you get with F36 eventually “killed” your battery because it charges over 2C so it is recommended to use real 1S chargers like the one I listed above for any type of 1S LiPos or LiHVs and avoid USB ones like these you’ve got with F36. Also that charger you have got with F36 very likely does not have any protection of overcharging because these batteries you plan to buy have voltage limiter electronic on them and they will stop charging - but if you buy any serious 1S HV or standard lipo, it is essential to have real charger and not use that USB one because most batteries does not have any overcharging protection electronics. Also, these chargers with 5 ports can work like parallel charger or like separated ports - but I don’t know what you plan to get - can you please post link to it? Because you need to avoid parallel ones because it is not very safe nor practical for beginners (for these type of charging you need to have all batteries with almost the same voltage etc. or you might have problems).

Now, 19000kv motors + FPV camera with normal LiPos that you plan to buy (150mAh) will not give you any benefit and will eventually do the opposite - they will reduce flight time significantly and you will not have any significant increase in power. For 19000kv motors you need good 1S HV batteries - especially if you add camera which also pulls lot of current - your 150mAh battery will very probbably get hot and puffed very quickly and after few flights. And yes - 19000kv 6mm motors allows you to fly outside in some windy conditions (not much wind - slight breeze is OK - those small 6mm brushed quads does not like too much wind - but with 19000kv and good HV battery you can manage a bit of windy weather).

You say your motors are hot after 15 seconds - if they are so hot that you can’t hold them with your fingers, they also might be problem - could be they are worn out. But it is more likely that your battery is problematic.

About acro: I see you actually want to fly F36 outside but as it is in its original flying mode. That is level mode flying. Acro is full control mode where you can control your quad completely and do loops, rolls etc. (please check about differences between acro and level on youtube etc. - some good explanation videos are there). So, to fly level mode with FPV camera, your current build and F36 board is fine for indoor flights, and if you use better battery and a bit better KV motors you can do level mode outside.
For real acro you can’t use controller you have got with F36 because sticks are not too sensitive for that type of control. You need some real controller - but then you will need different board becuase F36 can’t be flashed to any type of firmware that can do acro flying. That’s what JBFPV mentioned - E011C controler (not E010C! E011C - aka “Santa whoop” :slight_smile: - it is diferent thing!) is similar to F36 but main difference is that E011C can be flashed (“hacked” as he said :slight_smile: ) with special firmwares that support acro flying, and F36 can’t.

And to explain what FETs are - small electronic components on boards that actually control speed of rotation of brushed motors (simple explanation - I will let some hardware wizards to give some better details about FETs :slight_smile: ). They are rated to specific amperage so you can’t use any KV motors with any FET - because if FET for example, can handle maximum of, say, 6A, and motor try to pull 10A from your battery, FET will “die” and board is unusable. Unfortunately, I have no clue how much amps FETs at F36 can handle, but we know that those on E011C, Boldclash B03, Betafpv lite, beecore lite etc. boards that supports acro hacks with, for example, Silverware firmwares, can work with 19000kv motors without problem.

Now, if you want to fly outside, maybe would be best for you to get some E011 (can’t be hacked any more - new boards are non-flashable - but for level mode flying it is OK) or E011C (still flashable with acro Silverware) type of quad with 7x16 brushed motors and stock controller. There you can put camera and it will fly level mode OK even outside in light breeze (stock 7mm motors on that quads are rather good). This one is also fantastic and can be flashed, have good motors and decent standard LiPo batteries (actually, it was first whoop-style Silverware flashable quad available - even before E011/E011C :slight_smile: ): http://www.boldclash.com/boldclash-bwhoop-b03-pro-micro-drone-p92.html - but it is hard to get because it is constantly sold out… :frowning: Then you need good 1S charger (like the one I listed above) and some goggles (ROTG can be used as a last solution but only if your phone supports it and it is fast enough to process video without stuttering and delays).

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Thank you for the reply back

Can you give me all the required items I should buy for indoor and somewhat outdoor flying? The thing is I have school and then I have a after school program so I don’t have a lot of time to do research

http://www.boldclash.com/boldclash-bwhoop-b03-pro-micro-drone-p92.html
Is this real? Or is it a fake? I am thinking of buying this drone

And also your english is very good I am really impressed at your skill level and thanks for the long informative reply. I highly appericate you for giving me honest replies and for telling me more about the hobby. Again thank you very much I appeciate the sincerity.

For fpv flying I want better range then my stock f36 board, I was thinking of buying the beecore f3 board but then I realised I need one of those tiranis transmitters but they are exspensive so buying the becore board is a total no no .

Is there any way I can get better range?

@silverAG

This is what I plan to buy. (Please tell me if I should correct what I buy)

3.7v 150mah 45C (5 battery pack) https://www.banggood.com/5PCS-Eachine-E010-0006-RC-Quadcopter-Spares-Parts-3_7V-150MAH-45C-Upgrade-Battery-Charger-Set-p-1103758.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

Eachine rotg1 (For fpv goggles this is my only option other fpv goggles are too exspensive. And also should I buy the ‘pro’ version or the standard form) https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-ROTG01-UVC-OTG-5_8G-150CH-Full-Channel-FPV-Receiver-For-Android-Mobile-Phone-Smartphone-p-1147692.html?rmmds=search&ID=521800&cur_warehouse=USA

Cheap mini aio FPV camera (I don’t know which one to buy right now)

jb_fpv ultra light frame

19000kv motors (if my board and battery can handle it) https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-4pcs-6x15mm-Motor-Speed/dp/B01N9ETA9Z/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=crazepony+motors&qid=1572846304&sr=8-9

(NOTICE) IF YOU FEEL LIKE I SHOULD CHANGE ANYTHING PLEASE TELL ME TO DO

I’ll leave it to SilverAg but consider purchasing the vr005 over the ROTG01, a few dollars more. Or a beginner’s kit such as E013 which comes with quad, goggles, vtx, a better transmitter than the F36 bean controller. It’ll probably end up being cheaper than you buying all the stuff separately. Than along the line you can upgrade to a bigger frame and motors. Most brushed flight controllers use FETs which rate for 6A, motors up to 8mm and various kvs are normally fine.

@F36:

I agree with Yets - Eachine E013 is a good level-mode-flying starter kit with goggles, quad and 1 battery.

It is also 6x15 like F36, but it comes with a bit better motors and all other accessories you need (goggles, camera, canopy…).

There is also possibility to order E013 without goggles and get other goggles like VR005 separately - they are 20USD now ( https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-VR005-2_7-Inch-5_8G-48CH-FPV-Goggles-Raceband-Auto-Search-With-Dual-Antennas-3_7V-1000mAh-Battery-For-RC-Drone-Beginner-p-1480430.html) and total will be cheaper while VR005 looks better value for money to me (need to investigate more about that :slight_smile: )) , but need to wait a month to ship them so maybe it is not acceptable…

But there are some drawbacks here with E013:

  • you can’t flash it with any type of acro firmware in the future if you plan to go that way - so you will need to buy another board for that, and also another controller etc.
  • it is 6x15 17000kv - so it can be used outside but with that KV it is still better solution to get 7x16 motors which are more powerful for outdoor flying - but 7x16 can’t be used with this frame - so if you want to upgrade from 6x15 to 7x16, you will need to get new, different frame etc.
  • as Yets said, it might work OK with 19000kv motors - but then you will need better battery for sure because stock one will shorten flight with 19000kv

Now, I made some brief search and made a list for 7x16 B03pro build and, with VR005 goggles, 3 B03pro batteries, F02H AIO, P01 charger etc., it goes to some 75-80 USD in total while each part is not more than 25 USD. But first let’s see will E013 maybe be OK for you - please check some youtube videos and reviews and post what do you think about it and we’ll see is it OK solution or you will still prefer to get separate parts and I’ll post what I found about 7x16 solution

P.S. I forgot to mention that, if you wear glasses, then you might have problems with this type of goggles…

@silverAG @yets I was SERIOUSLY considering buying the e013 but then I realized that I will also want extra batteries but the extra batteries will cost near a hundred dollars. My goal is to try to get everything under 80 dollars and the e013 is 72 dollars, I was fine with that 72 dollars because it had more pro’s than just buying everything separately like better motors, longer range, and fpv goggles but the battery problem ruins it all and I also dont know what type of plug goes with the e013 board.

Didnt read the entire post but here a good deal and starting whoop once flashed with NFE :slight_smile: even stock motors are awesome

https://www.ebay.com/c/2193124315

Plug is the same as on F36 (it is called PH2.0). But there is one more thing- if you want to replace motor on E013, you need to desolder/solder them because that board does not have any plugs except for battery. The same is with camera on it.
@tarkux: boldclash still sells b03pro with 3 batteries… it is excellent deal if it is not sold out

@F36:

OK. This is going to be really long post… :slight_smile: I’m just hoping it won’t be too confusing (sometimes I stuck with my English and wish to “over-explain” :blush:)

Ready to fly (RTF) packs like E013 have pros and cons. So, in this hobby, it is best to get separate items and have a various parts of hardware to combine for best results. That could be cheaper or more expensive - depends on lot of things. So, if you don’t want to go RTF route and don’t want to get something like E013, I will here post list what you need to get to have nice brushed FPV whooping for indoor and outdoor. Most of items are inside your 20$ (max 25$) limit “per item” and total is between 70 and 80 USD. It is a very tricky thing to stay into that budget, but let’s try!

First some explanations and tips:

I suggest you to go with brushed whoop style quad with 7x16mm motors which comes with good level mode but it also can be flashed with some acro firmware (like Silverware in this case) so you can upgrade in the future. That configuration will be very good for indoors, but also cappable to fly fine outside (in a light breeze - forget flying in level mode under any serious windy conditions with this light and small quads - they are too light and there are no motors that can keep them in the air if wind is really strong - but in acro, you can fly even then - but that’s anoter step we will take when time comes). Forget F3 boards and beaflight compatible quads because for those type of boards, you need Taranis, Jumper or some other similar controller which is, as you said, too expensive for your available budget - while these Silverware compatible boards (which I am recommending here) with bayang protocol can be flown (in level mode) with toy controllers too. Still, for acro, you will need real controller… So, as I assume, you are starting with level mode FPV so controller that comes with quad will be OK.

So, we will stick to 7x16 motors (there are also 7x20 and 8x20 etc. options, but they are too strong for FPV beginners - so, let’s go with 7x16). Difference between 7x16 and 6x15 (6x15 you have in F36, E013, E010 etc.) is actually in width of motor - so you can’t use the same frame. For 7x16 you need frame with different, wider motor holders. Both frames are 65mm wide, but have different motor holder size… So F36 and, for example B03pro looks equaly large/small but difference in power is noticeable.

Now, let’s go to the point - here is list of all you need with prices I found, and with a bit of explanations why and why not and “pros and cons” comments for every item:

  • Quadcopter: BoldClash BWhoop B03pro - 15 USD with 3 batteries included: http://www.boldclash.com/boldclash-bwhoop-b03-pro-micro-drone-p92.html
    IMPORTANT: Need to get B03PRO - not B03 - because non-pro B03 has level mode with altitude hold and that mode, believe me, you don’t want to fly unless you flash it with Silverware, but that is another topic and not for FPV beginners (we can discuss that when time comes).
    It is for 7x16 motors so you can’t use the 6x15 motors with it because for 6x15 you need different frame. But 7x16 is better for outside (completely good for inside flying too especially because you have different speeds so you can use one for indoor and other for outside fights).
    So, this is definitely the best choice - you will get good quad with good motors for inside and outside flying, and with good board that already have all connectors you need without need to solder anything (plugs for motors, plug for camera, plug for flashing if you decide to go acro one day etc.). It flies very good with its stock firmware (level mode only). Controller you will get with it is also good for level mode flying. For 15USD you even get 3 batteries. The only problem could be that it is sold out. I see site says “ship in 3 to 7 days” which usually is true, but it might get longer to ship. Also, maybe they won’t ship to your country (because LiPos are in package with quad and there are some restrictions for shipping LiPos from and to some countries)- the only way is to try to order and we’ll see…
    Or use alternate source like eBay - but it costs 3 USD more: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Boldclash-B-03-pro-Drone-Headless-Mode-Remote-Control-Quadcopter-with-3-Battery/312814968337 - 18 USD - but it ships from US to US - so if you are in US, maybe it is better solution…

  • Battery charger: Boldclash P01 - 9USD on sale!
    This is a must! Get it here: http://www.boldclash.com/boldclash-p01-whoopower1s-lihv-lipo-charger-switchable-charging-board-max-1a-mcpx-mcx-molex-charge-6-battery-black-p129.html
    It is on sale for 9USD!(man, I am thinking to get one too - I already have one but would be great to have a spare :slight_smile: )
    It can charge standard LiPos and also LiHVs (if you decide to go that way in the future) and you can set charging rate to desired value (from 0.1A to 1A) etc. and you can charge up to 6 batteries at the same time in 6 separate channels (not parallel charging but real separate charging which is great and much better to use) - so you’ll have all you need for good charging. You will need to buy power supply for it, but I assume you can get some in any computer shop in your town for less than 20USD (avoid ordering cheap power supplies online from China because there are mostly without any quality control so it might be dangerous to use them! Buy one in local store - although they probably have them also from China, it is more probable that they are better quality)… But if you order this charger, and when you get it, then we’ll discuss about power supply and how to charge with it (what charging rate to set etc.)…

  • Goggles: Eachine VR005 - 21USD
    https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-VR005-2_7-Inch-5_8G-48CH-FPV-Goggles-Raceband-Auto-Search-With-Dual-Antennas-3_7V-1000mAh-Battery-For-RC-Drone-Beginner-p-1480430.html
    Not particularly impressive (not diversity but dual antenna system etc.) but goggles within your budget and better than ROTG. But if you wear glasses, it could be problem… Also, shipping will not start before December 1st… so you need to wait :frowning: or try to search a bit on eBay or aliexpress (I can search a bit but only later today and post if I find someone who sells them now and under 25 USD)
    Additional goggles that are much better than VR005 are VR007: https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-VR-007-Pro-VR007-5_8G-40CH-HD-FPV-Goggles-4_3-Inch-Video-Headset-With-3_7V-1600mAh-Battery-p-1134154.html - bigger screen and you can even use small glasses with them if needed. But they are over your budget. But, try to get them somehow… Also, not in stock and preorder so try to find on eBay or Aliexpress some better deals
    I would not recommend ROTG01 - with ROTG there are some delays in video that might be problematic, but it is acceptable if you don’t fly fast. And it might work only if your phone supports it and if your phone is fast enough to reduce additional delays in processing video - but you can’t be sure until you buy and try (there are some testing utility on banggood to verify your phone, but it is not 100% exact - you really need to buy it and try and it might not work for you and you spend money on non-working device :frowning: ). But still, goggles are the only real thing. If you won’t order motors, frame and additional batteries, maybe you can spare more on goggles?
    And one question about ROTG - you plan to use your phone as a monitor or you will put a phone in some virtual reality goggles? Because, if you will be OK with monitor, then there are also some other solutions… but it is not immersive as goggles - so I strongly suggest that you somehow get goggles…
    UPDATE: I found VR006 for 18.50 at AliExpress https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32846110874.html - price is really great. Please check reviews on youtube and other sites to decide easier.

  • Camera: Boldclash F02H - around 25USD
    For beginners, I think that the best solution for you and for FPV start is Boldclash F02H. That is camera + video transmitter (VTX) + protective canopy - all in one! Just plug to your B03 board and screw on frame and you are good to go!
    But, we might have a problem here because it is discontinued! :frowning:
    The only place where I found it still in stock is: https://www.tmart.com/BoldClash-B06-05-F02H-Camera-VTX-AIO-800TVL-5-8G-25mW-48CH-Clear-Canopy-4-5g-55-44-16_p369349.html
    But it is around 25USD. If it is acceptable, get it. Get the one with clear canopy - for some reason, they are a bit better made than black… But black is also OK (if clear is sold out, get black - currently, I see they have both in stock). Before mounting it to quad, you need to remove one screw from VTX and put some sponge to the place where that screw was to prevent shorting the plug which might happen in crashes, but we’ll discuss that if you get it and before mounting - remember me to explain in details when time comes)
    Other FPV camera solutions might be problematic because you need to get or make some separate canopy, separate camera holder etc. which adds more weight… or need to be creative and make some stuff by yourself (molding canopies from plastic or 3D printing and use double-side tape to mount camera and VTX etc.). The key is - as a beginner in FPV, you need to have some decent camera protection, some solid canopy. Or you will break camera on first crashes… This solution with canopy is best for beginners as far as I know. See, I am using it too in several of my builds (F02H with clear and black canopies but with a bit better camera - I replaced stock one because I needed more TVL - not important for you for now because stock camera in this combo is very good too :slight_smile: ).

Extra stuff not needed right now:

  • Frame: no need for start. Frame you get with B03pro is fine in terms of weight and durability. If you crack it, you can hot-glue it and keep going (will be a bit heavier due to added hot-glue weight, but it is acceptable if you use small amount)… Replacement frames can be found at eBay or Aliexpress. If there are no B03pro frames available to buy, you can still find E011 or E011C frames (a bit different, black nontransparent plastic, but basically the same weight and B03pro board fits there perfectly because shape of all these boards are the same).

  • Batteries: if you order quad from links above, no need for additional batteries for now because you will have 3. But if you want more, don’t get 150mAh. Get at least 240mAh or 260mAh (or 300mAh) with PH2.0 connector on wire and square shaped one (compatible with E011, E011C, B03 or B03pro quads). But we’ll get into that later when/if needed. Batteries that comes with B03pro quad are not HV - they are standard LiPos so you won’t have crazy power you need for acro - but for level mode flying with stock firmware indoor and outdoor, they are very good.

  • Motors: no need to get any for now. Stock one on that quad are around 15000kv (close to 16000kv) which is OK for start with FPV in level mode indoors and outdoors. But, if you want, get few sets of these (17500kv): https://www.xt-xinte.com/17500KV-Brush-Motor-716-CW-CCW-Motor-for-Hollow-Cup-Indoor-FPV-Racer-RC-Quadcopter-Racing-Drone-p536155.html
    Extremely cheap and really powerful. There is no need to use 19000kv 7x16 if you don’t have HV batteries and does not fly acro because you will not ge significantly more speed in level mode, and in the same time, battery life will be shorter - so 17500kv is a bit optimum for this type of Lipos and level mode. This is me flying with these motors and that B03pro, but acro flying (flashed/hacked with Silverware acro firmware): https://www.airvuz.com/video/The-blades-are-poisoned-He-he-he?id=5daa2d4de25b170ef1567d9d - so, you see that there is plenty of speed (and I am even not full throttle :slight_smile: )
    But remember - these are 7x16 and WON’T FIT INTO F36 FRAME! If you want new motors for F36, you need to get 6x15 set.

  • Extra propellers: https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-E010-Blade-Inductrix-Tiny-Whoop-RC-Quadcopter-Spares-Parts-Blades-Propeller-p-1079425.html - less than 3 USD
    Get these Eachine ones - cheap and better than these on B03pro quad. For some reason, stock propellers on B03 tends to get loose and fly off the motor after few crashes. These Eachines are much better!

  • Prop removal tool: get some tool for easy props removal - get this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-of-Hubsan-X4-H107-Propeller-Blades-U-Wrench-Rotor-Tool-N3/122210784687 - 1.30 USD
    It is great - works as a wrench and you can easily remove props without bending shaft motors or damage frame. Alternatively, you can use fork to remove props, but this tool is much better solution and it is so cheap :slight_smile:

  • Good antennas for goggles: for goggles or ROTG, you also need better antenna than these stock ones you get with them - but you need to know what connector is on goggles you buy and then order some better antennas. For start, these stock dipoles will do the job

So, without additional stuff like motors, better antennas, without extra frame etc. it is around 70, 75, max. 80 USD (depending from where you order and where some things are in stock or not in stock, what shipping you chose etc.)

Note that I was trying to list things that does not require any soldering or similar extra work so you can easily get all this and put all things together and fly without any hassle and additional tricky work.

Check all this and reply what can go, what can’t go and what you want to change and we’ll see for other options…

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