I advise against it unless you add/move ballast up front. It’s flip over city. AMHIK. LOL. The forward staggered lift weighthelps offset the balance of rear pusher weight. Plus lifting the nose helps clear obstacles. Although you may be on to something with battery/cam/ electronics moved to the front.
Ha! With the tendency of these to suck up hairs on the props and bog motors … I’ve been meticulously cleaning every inch, every corner, and every neglected hard to reach space of floor daily!!! Lol
Yes … you can help me determine if there is any value to roll stabilization on lift motors!! I’ll post later tonight. What’s your board?
Mine is e011 santa, running NFE silverware at this moment. Thanks a lot!
The Betaflight Whoov I’ve got is running the rafl hovercraft fork, it has the lift motors assigned to aux3 which gets mapped to a dial or slider so you set the hover height and go. Thrust motors are mapped to the yaw stick and throttle. I’ve not looked at the code to see just what he changed but you’ll probably get a clue if you have a dig.
This works so much better than just using a quad setup, you can mix a little throttle into the lift motors to compensate for sag during high speed drifting and even set up a switch to give a lift boost for carpet edges, cables etc.
Thanks @Chaotix. That’s essentially exactly what I’ve done too except instead of mapping lift to a pot … I mapped it to the pitch stick. So trimming the pitch stick sets hover height, and pulling back kills lift (brakes - very useful), and pushing the pitch stick forward gives full lift.
Looks like I’m on the same page then. I still think I’m gonna map roll stabilization on lift motors to an aux switch and a couple different methods of pitch stabilization to aux switches also just for you guys to have some fun stuff to test. Thanks for the link @Chaotix
Ok guys … I’ve watched quite a few videos of fpv whoovers now and I think I’m on to something serious here with whooverware. It’s not a revolutionary innovation or anything … but having the lift throttle mapped to the pitch stick makes all the difference. You absolutely NEED to be actively and aggressively changing your lift as you whoov! So I set mine up where all the way forward on pitch kills lift. It’s basically brakes, and really good ones too. It feels so much like racing a car on a track - letting off the pitch stick feels like letting out a clutch. … and I’m depressing a throttle like gas pedal on the throttle stick. Anyway this combination is allowing for INSANE speed and the ability to hit brakes in tight spaces. And the sound … the sound is just incredible when you get “in the flow” of letting out the clutch and throttling up to accelerate in straightaways … its a nice slowly winding up sound just like pushing a race car on a track as you climb through a gear!!! I’m so bummed I don’t have any mics to record audio of this … but I’ll get some dvr footage as soon as possible! I’m actually more active on the pitch stick than i am on the throttle stick.
Just got a 716 whoover together on whoop props. I think it may even be faster than its 720 big brother!
I think its time I jump in on this… I’ve got a bunch of toy grade boards, but I have a Spektrum transmitter so I can’t control these boards… I’m going to use a regular brushed board… Whats the basic setup for programming the FC? Is there a beginners guide?
Hi guys just jumping into the whoov craze and building my first il be using my old Beecore fc flysky version so where can I download the rafl hex to flash to my board and do I need to swop around any positions of motors? or what is the best setup? Many thanks in advance
Anyone tried one of these yet?
TinyWhoov with TPU skirt found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783362
Will be printing this soon wondered if anyone has any insites? Ideas for remixing welcome too.
Hey guys, just wondering what sort of weights you are getting? I’m a little concerned my above print will be a little beefy.
I have been building all mine in foam and on only 3 motors (1 lift motor) now. So mine are pretty light. Some I’ve even had to add weight to the nose to keep them on the ground. I can say this … weight does make a difference in “yank” factor - in other words how immediately it hits top speed. My lightest ones are at almost top speed tge moment I hit the throttle which is nice to blast straight out of a drift turn when the exit is lined up. An added 5 grams can mean it needs 15 to 20 feet before top speed is reached and also means exiting a drift turn requires a bit more finesse and precise controls. I would highly suggest building a 3 motor 7mm whoov on foam in the 20 ish gram range… just to see what ultralight can do for you. If you do, keep as much weight on the nose as possible like camera and battery pretty far forward.