The Whoopling concept (*all*-in-one FPV electronics)


#1

I would like to detail my current Whoop build, which not only focuses on a great end result, but also on a smooth build process, high durability and easy maintenance.
It greatly streamlines the build process when all electronics are bundled in one unit, which then gets married to the frame.
Maintenance is easy, because the complete electronics separate in seconds from the frame and motor plugs are easy to reach.



This works great with (some) other FCs and cameras, but in this case have used the BetaFPV F3 FCs and the VM2751 cameras. Runs Betaflight 3.2 with OSD.

Build process:

  • reinforce lens glue seam with epoxy (common break point on most of these cams. Results in stray light and focus issues)
  • cut plug from camera, solder 4 wires to FC (pre-tin pin holes properly, clean up afterwards with alcohol
  • use adhesive silicone to glue the mount to the FC. Make a very tough and also flexible bond. Easy to remove with enough force and targeted cuts from a sharp knife, but impossible to crash off
  • make sure FC sits level, mount is positioned 100% correct, and let cure for at least 12 hours
  • zip-tie cam to mount, leave end of ziptie in the same length of antenna (additional crash protection)

#2

That is a awesome build!! I like that the FC is flipped that makes for a much faster and easier motor swap. Good stuff @Benedikt


#3

@Benedikt: Brilliant concept and execution! Arschgeil! :heart_eyes:

And of course, you built eight (8!) of them at once. :sunglasses:


#4

The initial motivation for inverted FC was that on the BeeBrain v1 most components where on top, and almost none at the bottom. That left a very clean surface on the bottom to mount the cam, so flip it!

It’s like a meditation to build in series. I actually made 10 this time.
Two are already a bit green around the edges :wink:

Last time I made 24, that was a bit boring at times. 10 feels like a good number to bite off in one chunk.


#5

Very nice builds Benedikt! I also came up with the ‘all in one electronics’ idea back when I used to fly 3D printed frames on my 8.5mm. Used to break a lot of frames back then and being able to swap frames quickly really helped reduce downtime:

Also the battery tray was modular, because a broken battery tray could take me out as well. Not much use for a whoop as the battery tray is built into the frame.

I like the tiewrap to hold the camera in place and provide crash protection!

Makes me think however; The ducts. Remember when I built a 0716 whoop out of carbon frame stiffeners? I used the Inductrix ones as they fit 0716 motors snug, but someone (I’ll have to search who it was again) accidentally ordered E010 ones. But what he did was pretty brilliant; cut the ducts out of an E010 frame and mounted them into the frame stiffener. This way we could have modular ducts! Break a duct, only replace the one duct!

Let me search who that was… was it you @Aaa ? I’m trying to find the picture of the modular ducts on the carbon frame stiffener.

Edit: yes, found it!


#6

Very nice!

I’m particularly interested about your comment on the camera. The VM2751 is standard issue on fullspeed micros and handles light really well, is only 3.5g and has provision for Vin Vout without modding. Your point about epoxying - have you seen many failures here? I’ve commonly ready about people having focus issues (myself included) and this root cause would make sense.


#7

One way to destroy these cams is to dislocate the lens on the front PCB.
The sensor sits on the board, and the lens is glued around it, usually with epoxy. Epoxy doesnt really grip to that plastic, so if the glue does not go around the edge of the lens base, a crash can knock the lens forward a little, and that brings it out of focus. Sometimes you can get it back in place by pushing straight into the lens. I only started doing this reinforcement recently. Not much hard crashing since, but I’m confident that will make them live longer.


#8

That is what happens to most of my cameras. That or I will snap the little buttons off.


#9

Hey @Benedikt…what’s your AUW on these 716 builds like this? I’m hoping with the new frame I’ll be getting my build under 24g. I have one now that’s 25g and it is flying amazing on MMW Insane 17k’s, the BetaFPV FrSky FC and the Jumper T8SG.


#10

Awesome. I love the idea of the motor connectors on the top within easy reach! It’s such a pain to plug them in underneath all the time. :grin:


#11

Yes, sir, it was me. Thanks for the recognition

I still have that build (it lasts more than any other build in my collection)

You can swap the motors in less than two minutes. Of course it doesn’t fly the same with different props, and it’s good to have different pids presets stored in betaflight

It works great, but i have to say that these frame stiffeners do break. Now the stiffeners are not reinforcing anything, they’re alone in the task of maintaining the build together. The weak point is the motor mount, as you can see in this pic:

Still, i think is a good solution when you have several whoop builds. Better than replacing or repairing your frame every time you break a strut…

You can do this also with 0716 motors/frames. In this case you cut off the lower part of the motor mount, and use the inductrix stiffener instead, because as @JBFPV just discovered, the inductrix stiffener has a perfect fit for 7mm motors.

Again, nothing here is perfect, but it’s so fun to experiment :slight_smile:


#12

Avail for dsm2 or dsmx?


#13

Very interesting build, Could you share the betaflight settings you used to flip the flight controller?
Thanks!


#14

I believe it’s the same as the Rambo whoop:


#15

How to flip the FC, it depends on specific hardware and firmware (version) you use. On the older versions of BF you had to change the output mixer, on the newer version you can just remap the resources.
If thats not enough info for you, go into you CLI, type “dump” and then post the content here.
I will tell you what lines to change to flip it.