Got my fpv setup on the 120 and took it for its maiden fpv run… I skimmed the grass about 2 min into the flight… I may play around with some epoxy and see if I can fix it… atleast temporarily. I didn’t pay much attention to the frame when I built it, but after the break, I realize that I should have filled in a few of the holes in the frame with epoxy. The arms are definitely not durable.
Why do so many designers like putting “speed holes” in areas that need the most strength?
@bubbak: Very cute frame, though!
@Denovich: Probably because those “designers” don’t actually build and fly their frames (or have others test them).
I used crazy glue on 3 different cf frames and they are as stiff and strong as ever. I find that 2-part epoxy cracks and doesn’t bind to cf very well. The key is to try to line-up and fit the layers/laminates as best as possible and then saturate the whole breakage area with crazy glue, making sure arm is level and not slightly twisted. When glue is dry, there will be no buildup of glue, maybe just a white haze. I’d wait at least a couple of hours for it to cure before building it back together and flying.
Maybe I will give that a try… I was more thinking epoxy so I can fill in the holes in the arms to strengthen it… I was going to try to repair this until I found a new frame to swap into, but I pulled the trigger on a RIP 120 frame. should have it in a few days.
@bubbak: RIP 120 will be a major step up! Not only will it be much stronger, you’ll also be able to fit more efficient 2.5" and 3" props. (Those 2030 candy props you use are junk. ;)) Strong frame plus bigger props will make a big difference for both flying and crashing.
I had the Racerstar 22435’s on it originally and they are much better. Unfortunately, I ran out… I was waiting for more to come in, so I put those on to see if it would fly.
lol good thing i only bought a few sets and will be using them to start off with for my keni 97 build to test hover, and general test flights… i bought some 2030 quad blades from gemfan , those look promising !
I bought these to put on the Chaser 88… They didn’t work well. Seemed to lack punch. I read that they worked better on the Aurora 100. I now run the Racerstar 2030’s on the Chaser and its much better.
Same here, not great in my chaser88 build either. Also far too loose for press fit type motors.
They aren’t great on the Aurora 100 either, more prop wash than stock.
They are very durable though, I’ll give them that!
Fair enough! I was just commenting on them for the record. I fully support using up all props you have in stock, even bad ones! I have a box of “beater props” just for that purpose.
And very purdy, too! Perfect for beauty shots.
The GF 2035BN quad blades are good.
The DYS 2" tris are garbage.
I loving the cut gf3025’s you recommended also. Very durable. I cut mine to 2.24in and it’s very responsive too. I think I’ll be sticking with them. You know your stuff!
So my seemingly indestructible –18 Alien Spider has finally moved on. I beat the snot out of this frame since November '16. I am currently rebuilding her with the F7 AlienFlightNG.
i built my 110 many many times and it still is giving me issues so i put it away for a while.
I decided to retune my 210 qav to still get some brushless feel in.
I got about 10 seconds into the 1st battery in my woods spot.
I flew out over the open field of bushes, faced my car and attempted a fast roll to gauge my flip.
Once upside down i lost all power. The quad fell silently with no power into the open bushes.
No buzzer signal no cam signal. We searched 2.5 hrs till dark then went home alone.
A day passed and it lightly rained… I spent my day at work looking out the rainy window wondering how my quad was…
We went out again yesterday and found it upside down, battery unplugged in a bush.
My xt-60 hard mounted to an armattan pdb was super loose.
So loose that the flip’s inertia had actually pulled the connector out mid air.
After researching i found that someone uses toothpicks jammed into the center of the prongs to widen them and keep then wide. I tried and it works great. I cut 2 pointed ends off a tooth pick and lightly tapped them into the center of each prong.
i now have a tight hard mounted xt-60 that i can still unplug, yet flips can not.
Glad you found it… Its one thing to loose a brushed build, but its even worse to loose a brushless build…
Hard to imagine how xt60’s became all the rage with needling toothpicks. I never switched over from deans. But they all have their problems … I shorted one once when it’s spring clip bent open on insert and it bent over to short the connection. That was a fun POP.
As far as I can tell, they all have their issues. Build quality on xt30 certainly varies between never having to spread the tines to having to do so regularly.
Shorting a Dean’s like that must have been exciting.
@tronaton: Glad you found your quad again as well as a fix for the loose XT60. Other than the toothpicks, people have also successfully used the silicone sheathing from power wires (copper insides removed). I forget the exact wire gauge. But the silicone sheathing has more flex than a toothpick, so may work even better.
@NotFastEnuf: I remember a lot more sparks with Deans-T connectors than nowadays with XT60. That said, my first build five years ago was an octocopter with a 4S 10,000mAh LiPo. So the Deans was probably undersized.
Also, to put thing in perspective: Even though XT60 can wear out over time, they are still 1000x than the damn Molex PicoBlade we have to struggle with on the brushed micros. (Until we discovered JST-PH2.0.)
The xt60 still sparks - we just don’t see it because it’s shrouded.