Super Colony 4in1 ESC broken resistor?


#1

Does anyone here have a super colony 4in1 ESC?

I think a resistor may be burned. It works just fine now I think, but once during flight my FC rebooted and I crashed badly…

I need someone to measure the resistance of the top second from the left resistor. Mine is reading almost zero resistance. Is that normal?


#2

The big bits in the middle there? Those are capacitors, they should have infinite resistance between ends (though your meter will read slowly increasing resistance eventually going infinite, due to the way ohm meters work).

If it’s a continual low resistance, your have an issue somewhere. Those are all soldered in parallel though so they should all read the same.


#3

So if these caps are used to lower voltage spikes, I technically should still be able to fly my quadcopter?

I assume that each of these caps is for one signal wire from the ESC to the motor, so it’s just the middle wire of one motor that may be fried.

Do you think I should try to replace the cap or solder a low esr cap to the lipos pigtail to lower noise before reaching the caps?


#4

They’re all between b+ and b-, and wired in parallel. That’s usually the case, anyway.
They won’t be per motor wire in any event.

Broadly speaking, ceramic caps either physically break and go open circuit, or fail short circuit and literally explode.

I would remeasure before you do anything.


#5

I’m pretty sure it’s a short circuit because I am getting almost no resistance in that cap and I see a bit of burn marks maybe on one of the terminals…

If they are in parallel doesn’t that effectively short the other caps, so it’s like I have no caps there? Should I just remove it maybe?


#6

I would expect it to literally explode if it’s shorted, but yeah you’re much better off with it removed than shorted.
Just that one?


#7

Yeah. All the others have resistances in the Mohm, kOhm range.

How would I remove it safety? I don’t own a heat gun.


#8

Before you do that I would spend some multimeter time checking to see if that cap does what we think it does.
If it’s a main filter cap one end will go to B+ and the other will go to B-.
If that is not the case then it may be connected to something that is shorted when there is no power.


#9

One end goes to B- the other goes to B+. Same as all the other caps on that middle two rows. Do you think it will be a problem just to leave it there?


#10

You can’t really check caps in circuit very well, if it’s shorted it will cause a problem as its shorting + to - if in doubt remove it. It’s very possible the esc will work fine with it removed. Check for no continuity between the + and- Lipo connection first though.


#11

Resistance is OL.

For Continuity my multimeter beeped once (has continuity) then it went OL then it had numbers on the screen. Does this mean that the caps are preventing a short circuit?


#12

That tends to indicate all is well, a short would keep beeping.


#13

Well that’s good. Now should I remove it or not.

Motors spin up fine through betaflight but I haven’t done a real flight yet.


#14

If it was mine, I’d put a pack through it and stress it a bit, no guarantees but it’ll probably be fine.


#15

If it says OL then everything is fine and there is no continuity. The beep is a false positive as the meter charges the cap and thinks that is current flow through the circuit.

If the cap really was shorted it would give you a nice pop and a shower of sparks when you plug a lipo in. It’s not subtle.


#16

Not subtle at all!


#17

Well let’s hope that doesn’t happen lol!