Silverware Lite vs F4 Betaflight (Meteor75Lite vs Meteor 75)

#1

As a NOOB I am thinking it would be nice to have a 2nd quad exactly like my first quad, in case something dies on my current Meteor 75 “Lite”.

The problem is the Meteor 75 Lite (with Silverware Lite FC) is not available for purchase, only the Meteor 75 with a Betaflight 1S F4 FC.

Patrick J Clarke, (and Joshua Bardwell confirmed) states that Silverware recovers from wall/gate hits significantly better than Betaflight, so I am hesitant to buy a $120 quad that will not fly like the quad I am learning with.

QUESTION: If I used the proper Betaflight Configurator for the Meteor 75 to set the FC rates and PIDs the same as the Silverware FC rates and PIDs, would it then fly/respond like the Silverware?

Alan in Florida

#2

AFAIK, no - Silverware has some different algorithms written differently and completely coded for micro quads so you can’t 100% simulate its behaving in betaflight. But, maybe somebody has some tips what to do to get close…

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#3

Seems like I either learn to fly two different quads or relace the Meteor 75 FC with the “Lite” FC for an additional $40. Bummer, these companies that sell a unicorn to get you hooked.

I really like the BT2.0 1S 450mAh batteries which both the Meteor 75 and the Meteor 75 Lite frames use

#4

If something dies, you wouldnt want to just bin the current quad, you should be repairing whatever died. But if you just want to get back in the air quickly while you slowly repair the other one then thats a good idea… but be careful. Once you have more than one they multiply like rabbits. After a few weeks i already had 4

But instead of just buying another identical quad, why not ‘build’ your second one? It will teach you quite a bit about how they all hang together, and you will need those skills for when something breaks.

Get the Lite brushless FC ($30), a set of motors ($40), a frame, props, canopy, and a M01 camera/vtx ($30) and it should be the same as what you currently have.

As for betaflight vs silverware… I have both, and for me at least there is something completely unexplainable but ‘easier’ to fly in Silverware. It takes me 2 packs on my Betaflight quad (Mobula6) to get used to it even though i should have exactly the same rates/expo… and to be honest i always go back to Silverware

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#5

Agreed about putting it all together myself with the same FC, Motors, Cam-VTX, but the real issue is not wanting to create a 2nd battery type and charger collection.

I made the mistake of starting my battery collection with the BetaFPV BT2.0 1S 450mAh batteries that are 15x7.5mm and have a different connector than 99% of the 1S quads.

I can put a BT2.0 pigtail on the FC, but there are no frames that take a 15x7.5mm battery - Even stupid BetaFPV that created the battery does not sell a frame that fits that battery.

I just don’t understand BetaFPV not selling the frame. For want of that frame, I will have to switch to a different battery, different charger, and different frame. They taut how much better the BT2.0 connector is than PH2, but when it comes to frames they seem obstinately stupid at understanding what it takes for the FPV community to get onboard with their great idea.

Standards create markets and the quad manufacturers really need to decide on a 1S, a 2S, a 3S … battery.

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#6

Mobula7 V2 frame fits that sized battery. And its only a couple of $ shipped from China.

The different connector is a bit of a tough one though. There is no doubt that its better, but unfortunately only Betafpv make batteries with that connector (Mylipo did for a bit too, and so did Tinywhoop i think). Switching out to PH2.0 will be a downgrade for sure, and you will be needing to swap out the pigtail every couple of months. Your best bet is to get a bunch of the connectors on their own (Betafpv sell them on their own), and then just buy batteries with the leads, so you can cut off the ph2.0 (CAREFULLY, one wire at a time!!) and solder on the BT2.0 connector. It would be a once-off job for every time you buy batteries, but remember, if you went to PH2.0, you would be soldering on new pigtails on the quad side quite regularly too.

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#7

I think solid-pin PH2.0 should last long… Folded one need regular changes.

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#8

I have changed mine a couple of times now, even solid pin. But then again it could be my batteries, I just change whenever I feel like flight times are dropping

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#9

If you fly brushed, lot of factors are there - motors are worn out, batteries… As soon as I get problematic flight times and lack of power, different batteries and/or fresh motors helps in my case.
But, all in all, solid pins connector also have lifetime but I think it is rather long…

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#10

They finally decided to offer the frame. I’ve successfully built a backup, identical, Meteor 75 Lite, and thanks to @Tokyo_Dom guidance, I figured out how to add 50% roll to rudder mix, and a nice throttle curve in my LiteRadio2 controller, with decreased rates (350/250) in the Silverware OSD, and managed to get both set to 5917MHz which is the farthest legal channel (Goggles:R8, FC:E8) from US 5G WiFi.

I am starting to get the hang of this. I have 88 four-five minute flights, 7 hours of flying, so far and the last five batteries only needed one physical retrieval. I still bounce off the floor a time or two each flight, but it is getting better.

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#11

Hi @cyclicalobsessive I followed your posts for the Metor75 here and in the IntoFPV forum and I find them very useful. Thank you for that. I’m a novice with the BetaFPV kit, and having a kangaroo too, but getting better. I destroyed my first frame with only 6 lipo’s :sweat: and in the last crash I lost my pigtail :sweat_smile: (one week later I have everything to fly again even I printed a frame).
I tried the rate to 400 and improved I have to try the 250. My problem is how to change the transmitter, can you explain how to connect to the PC and to the OpenTX. The procedure I found seems that is not working for me. Thank you!