Show us your builds!


#1833

Brilliant mod! Really dig what you guys are doing with HD. I just ordered an Amazon version of the Quelima. Going to try a go at it with 8.5 motors.


#1834

It’s not the Bayang, I’ve gotten close to 300 meters with it using my Jumper on 30mw. My 4in1 I haven’t range tested but I never got a failsafe. How’s your antenna positioning?


#1835

Hmm, that is interesting. On the Zero I currently have it coming out of the back with the VTX antenna. On the BetaLite I have it positioned to the left side where the FC mounts.


#1836

Would love to get my hands on a few of these mounts!:grin:


#1837

Ideally you want your antennas as straight as possible, pointed right up or down. Signal is weakest in the direction the tip is pointing at. Same for the radio antenna, you want that pointing up (if you want horizonal range). Try that and see if it helps.

Where are you located? Wouldn’t mind sending you some. Or do you have access to a 3d printer so I can share the files?


#1838

What happens when your bored, at home alone and it’s raining?

I got tired of looking at my AIO FC from my QX-105 and the CX-30 frame collecting dust, so I spent the evening playing mad scientist.

Interesting enough, I actually put the CX-30 FC on the QX-105 frame for the hel of it, now I went the other direction.


#1839

What happens when your bored, at home alone and it’s raining?

I got tired of looking at my AIO FC from my QX-105 and the CX-30 frame collecting dust, so I spent the evening playing mad scientist.

Interesting enough, I actually put the CX-30 FC on the QX-105 frame for the hel of it, now I went the other direction.


#1840

That makes perfect sense. I never realized that the direction of the antenna made a difference. I’ll have to try that tonight if I can find a spot with adequate enough light. Thanks for all the good tips! I have yet to leave this forum without gaining some very helpful information.

I’m located in Nashville, TN and currently don’t have access to a 3d printer. I believe that is next on the list!


#1841

Curious to hear the results.

I’m in the Netherlands (Europe) :wink: so it’s probably more efficient to find a printer locally. Anyone near Nashville, TN willing to help out? I’ll supply the files.


#1842

Sweet looking build. I’ve always been a fan of the low profile camera. What’s up with foam on the top? I always assumed a vacuformed canopy was the lightest option.


#1843

Thanks! Good point. So did I. But my scale told me the vacuum formed canopy is at least 0.5 grams (even with pretty thin plastic) but the foam is only 0.1 grams, it barely registers on my scale. And it provides actual dampening. And you don’t need screws on the side. It also provides better cooling for the electronics. But wait, there’s more! :wink: remove the rubber band and you can fold the foam up to easily access the brain (flashing ports) for connecting. It kinda feels like peeling skin back to expose the vulnerable flesh… :roll_eyes:

*oh AND almost forgot!! After I insert my probes into the brain (without solder) I put the foam and the rubber band back over it, holding the wires in place during flashing!


#1844

Interesting, maybe I need to try out the foam! I kind of wondered if it was primarily for dampening but if it is lighter than a canopy (by a fair amount even) I’m all for it. What’s your AUW? Do you think the 3d printed camera mount has any advantage over hot glue/foam tape? I haven’t had much of an issue with it, but if it’s lighter I would be interested in trying your stl file. Thanks!


#1845

Weight without battery is 24.1 grams. I prefer the 3d printed mount because it keeps it in place, even in the hardest crashes. Worst case scenario the cam pops out or gets crooked. If you use glue and it breaks, that will really take you out and you’ll need to fix it at home.


#1846

Nice Cam mount! Would like to try :smiley:


#1847

You can find my camera mounts here, updated it yesterday: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2711856


#1848

Picked up the longer frame kit of the SPC Maker 90A to move the guts from the 2S 90X into. This opens up the ability to point the vtx antenna verticle and clear the props.

Next to the 1S version with the original frame style.


#1849

65mm Micro Whoop Frame
KingKong Integrated F3 FC + VTX + Brushed ESC
1.2g Super Light 1000TVL 1/4 CMOS 2.8mm Lens FOV170 Degree Mini FPV Camera
Frsky XM receiver
19000KV motors
25g AUW

rx


#1850

97mm diagonal quad frame that will take up to a 2.5" prop. I’ve built a 2.5 and 2" version to compare…
16x16 FC mount and 20x20 (untested) version.
Mounted the ESC under the frame, and FC on top for a low profile build.
Works with both AIO and seperate FPV camera/TX.

I used:
1103 8,000kv Racestar motors
Super_s f4 FC and ESC stack
Both a AKK A5 and AKK BS2 camera.
2" and 2.5 " props.

This is designed to be printed in PC. I used PC-Max. Its super stiff and seems unbreakable…

Should work fine in Nylon - e.g. Taulman 910, but will have more flex. May work in ABS - let me know!

Top cover and battery strap (for 300mah 2S Nanotech battery) printed in TPU.


#1851

Nothing overly special, I got my QX105 Bat back in the air. I ruined a camera and took the dipole off and tried my hand as soldering it on the Bat’s camera after killing the stock clover. Needless to say, it was successfull!

First flight since the rebuild. Stock pids, race rates


#1852

Not at all micro, but I built it today!





Flies pretty nicely too, especially for $10/each motors and $8.69/each ESCs!
Needs more tuning though.