Show us your builds!


I had a similar idea, but I’m not quite there yet, still work in progress:

6mm motors are not that snug - the silicone stuff is dry now. I was thinking about reusing one of those sciskys…


glad to see someone using the foam from the eachine video products.
It is almost weightless, and it really saves gear.
super cool burt.


for faster swaps i think small zip ties will work as well for that purpose.
Its another tronaton secret. lol
They work great as bumpers because they break on hard impact instead of the motor holes/arms.
They weigh less then the rubber grommets…


i always save it, it’s so useful


that looks awesome, and very clever positioning of parts. Some days ago i ordered a bunch of stiffeners with the idea of using them as frames, they’re simple and extremely light.

Thanks for the inspiration for one of my next builds

Show us how it flies!


They are great frames and easily modded too!

Yours reminds me of a Stegosaurus - just need to trim out some V’s in the foam :money_mouth_face:


Finally worked it out with my BoBo95 frame and have it flying…

Looks like there is an issue with Betaflight and the DSHOT protocols still as I’m running PIKOBLX 3.1.7 and if DSHOT is enabled, motor 1 doesn’t spin - ONESHOT and all works great…

Instant power on 2S and MENTAL on 3S

Have :money_mouth_face:swapped out the 5 blade props for the Gemfan 2035BN’s and is almost as quiet as my 1S Awesome-90… Except when you punch it and you can’t hear it at all as it’s so far aaaaway! :wave:


As per above thought I would show a picture of my ultralite 6mm build that I have been experimenting with as well.
Built with h101 silverware FC and 1.5mm e010 carbon stiffener. The h101 is just small enough to fit and seems to stiffens the frame more.

A bit of a mash together and not the prettiest but has incredible punch indoors (even compared to my 18g tiny whoop with same motors and battery) and due to the weight the flimsy build seems to not be affected by hard crashes. Was really only going to be an experiment until I received my 6mm armattan frame however worked out better than I expected.

Will post pictures of the same setup with 716 motors once I receive the parts.


Very nice and minimal! Can you tell about the props, what are those and how they perform compared to the tiny whoop style props?


The props are the GW008.

I’ve been testing them hoping they are more efficient than the 4 blade e010 props as I’m still running a 150mah battery.

So far I like them as them. They seem to be more efficient than the 4 blades whilst still providing good thrust.

I will fly both props some more and try to get some actual flight time numbers to check.

The prop testing which prompted me to buy them is in the link below.


My Tiny Whoop – CUSTOM BUILD

-Inductrix Frame (CLEAR)
-Beecore F3 EVO Flight Controller (FlySky)
----- De-Soldered Motor Connectors
-Racerstar 59,000 RPM 6mm Motors
-Crazepony VM275T v1.1 AIO Micro FPV Camera
-Crazepony Micro AIO FPV Camera Mount/Canopy
-CUSTOM: 5.8G Whip Antenna
----- DETAILS: 12.8mm 1/4 Wavelength w/ Linear Polarization
----- Personally Hand BUILT + TUNED this Antenna
-RakonHeli 3K Pure Carbon Fiber Frame Stiffener
-HobbyMate Quad-Blade Props (Color: BLACK)
-KingKong Tri-Blade Props (Color: WHITE)
-GIANT POWER 1S 220mah 50C Lipo Batteries
-EACHINE 1S 200mah 30C Lipo Batteries

TOTAL WEIGHT: 20.8 grams (without battery)


thanks for the info and the link to the thread!!


I have tried many many props including the stock Quad-Blade EACHINE E010, JJRC H36, Furibee F36 props, the Bi-Blade prop MOD, the RakonHeli Tri-Blade props, the RakonHeli Quad-Blade props, HobbyMate Quad-Blade props, RJXHobby Tri-Blade props, King Kong Tri-Blade props, and a few others.

The RakonHeli props (Tri-Blade and Quad-Blade props) both fly great but I can’t recommend them as the .8mm hole for the motor shafts ALWAYS enlarges after removing them a few times. This issue seems to be more prone to occur with the Tri-Blades. I always use a prop removal tool too. Because of this they don’t fit snuggly onto the motor shafts and become unusable. If they weren’t $8 for a set of 4 (on Amazon w/ shipping) this wouldn’t bother me but at this price…not recommended. Out of all the different props I have tried, these are the only ones I have had become too lose to be able to use and some of the props I have have been put on and removed 100+ times.

Out of all the props I have tried, the ones I use and recommend are…

The RJXHobby and the King Kong Tri-Blades are exactly the same. I think RJXHobby just re-read them as their own. They are identical, they weigh the same, and are even sold in the same 4 colors. From my experience and testing these are the Tri-Blades that I recommend and love. These have a slightly more streamlined blade profile, are stiffer, and have a slightly more agressive pitch when compared to other Tri-Blade props I have used. These are definitely my favorite Tri-Blade props.

The HobbyMate props are my recommended Quad-Blade props for pretty much the same reasons as text King Kong Tri-Blade props. They have a slightly different, more streamlined blade profile, more aggressive pitch, and have a little more stiffness especially when compared with the stock E010 props.


So frustrated with my stock baby hawk frame becoming an unfixable rattle trap after removing the prop guards … I migrated to a cf frame. Even after dropping to default betaflight pids I couldn’t get to full throttle without the gyro getting pissed off from vibrations and holding back full throttle. I guess in my case the prop guards were structural. If it works out well and I can “tune back up” to where it feels crisp to me, it will get a custom canopy in “babyhawk white” like my last blue and orange build. Keeping the stock camera tower, uptilt, and camera will help make a clear evaluation isolating the frame as the only variable changed.


And as soon as I posted this on discord last night, @Denovich linked me to the spacecowboy xlr-2 frame which looks totally sick - so I couldn’t resist ordering one of those. Guess that will be next. Hahaha


LOL, @NotFastEnuf! I was just going to point you to the Space Cowboy XLR-2 EMAX Power Pack Edition. (There’s also a XLR-2 Standard Edition for 11xx motors and 2" props.) But @Denovich beat me to it. :stuck_out_tongue:

Very exciting that you already ordered one! Can’t beat the $15 price for the Beta version! :smiley:

I just wish there was a slightly larger version to fit 2.5" RX2535 quad-blades, which are still more efficient and quieter than all the new 2" props. :wink:


Yeah, that is one sweet frame. My babyhawk Frankenstein looks pretty rough right now but I got to put a few packs through it today and it feels a whole lot better now! Crisp and solid … no more rattles, jello, or jitters. Now to tune it up into the ultra high p range where I like it. :smile: Give me some time and I’ll have this Frankenstein looking pretty sweet! Not sure if I’m gonna go with the same Mohawk as my blue and orange build or if I’m gonna design something new. The xlr-2 will just have to be another power pack build! Or maybe racerstar 1103 since they have similar tiny mount hardware.


Apparently, the EMAX Power Pack motors use a different mounting pattern, bolt size, and prop size than standard 11xx motors. So the XLR-2 EMAX and XLR-2 Standard will not take the same components. IOW, if you ordered the EMAX edition, you kinda have to use EMAX components. That said, I’m sure you can make it work with a drill and some double-sided tape. :wink:


Well both emax and racerstar 1103 use 1.5mm hardware to mount. The emax mounts on a 8.4mm diameter circle and the racerstar on an 8.5mm. Everything else uses m2 on 9mm. This makes the emax version of the kit a better fit for racerstar 1103 motors than the standard kit. I will probably use the emax motors anyway but you never know with all these closeout deals lately from China.

Also spacecowboy just posted a scx- 100 picture on Facebook that looks like it’s designed around the micro swift ccd. Very exciting!


This is not so much a build as a trial fit/proof of concept but as its Babyhawk based I thought you might like a look.

I think a very small bit of file work to get the upper shell to clear the motors and it will work. It’s a Rotorious Speck85bl frame and cam mount with the Babyhawk powertrain and upper body shell.
The 2 Babyhawks I’ve had in for repair have been really bad for vibrations to the extent of causing seriously hot motors and freaked out gyros, terrible fc mounting and bad frame design seem to be the culprits. This should solve it as would that seriously tempting frame from Spacecowboy.