Those props look serious
Are your helpers for hire?
Cause my builds are on serious back up😝
Those props look serious
Indentured servitude is a great thing. They aren’t hired out though, sorry.
If anyone is getting a 3s battery to work on any 20x20 FC let me know.
Ive tried every bg/gb board out. (even those ratted for 4s)
Its been 3 months of hopes being crashed after an extensive build after rebuild.
all of them have failed in the voltage reg department.
Usually after about 3 batts the buzzer starts making crazy sounds and the FC then fails shortly.
The minicube lasted the longest (9 batts), yet then decided to overpower and fry my tx02 with my lemon satellite.
Ive rebuilt the 3s keni 110 with a new/different FC 4 times. (waiting 3 weeks for parts each time)
my final attempt is with a pico blx fc as its rated for 6s.
I have the boards and will wait a while till i feel i can take another failure after a rebuild.
If this fails i think i am done with trying to get a 3s 20x20 set up to be reliable.
however brushed is giving me similar issues.
normally i can focus on one or the other to keep me in the air,
ATM both areas are lacking in flyability as of late.
My brushed F3 evo type boards have all failed by losing communication with the satellite.
re-flash or different firmware did not help.
(this has happened so much that i do not even try for a replacement anymore as i do not want to deal with hoping the new one might work.)
Im down to a v1 scisky that has no buzzer as my only fpv rig.
after 3 years of enthusiastically flying and building almost everyday…
tron is fading fast.
i miss the days when my quads broke from crashes.
I have had to tune/setup about 4 different boards in BF.
now I’m that much faster at getting a good starter tune on new builds.
Give it a little time, these frustrations will fade. If they’re mfgr issues, then get replacements and chalk this up to living on the bleeding edge. Stuff’s coming out so fast that in just a few weeks, you’ll find the solid stuff you’ve been looking for.
I run 3S on my little brushless. I’m using a PikoBLX and a RaceFlight Millivolt FC. The PikoBLX regulator is burned out and the Millivolt has none. So I use an external regulator on both. The Matek 5/12V one from BG is cheap and effective. I use them on my big quads too and have tested them to 5S. They have enough juice to power a 5V cam/VTX at 200mw along with the FC.
do you think my 5v step down polu would power a tx02 and a pico fc?
The fc i have require 2s i believe.
No room for 2 regulators under the canopy,
In the build I’m already using one on the tx02.
ahh the built in regulator is 5v to power the FC and a 5v out.
so can i run cam and fc off a polu?
Cam running plus VTx transmitting uses c.a. 350…450ma.
Check your FC consumption and polu rating.
i have a Pololu 5V 1A step down…
i dont know how to read the voltage amperage stuff.
its a big wall for me.
I’ve learned not to trust onboard 5v for camera/vtx…
however if the entire board is powered by the 5v polu then
is the risk of blowing the 5v onboard bec gone?
so i could run the polu from 3s to the pico then use the onboard on the pico for the tx-02?
Yikes, @tronaton! If this bad luck is following both brushed and brushless builds, it sounds like an awful jinx. Ugh!
On the upside, hearing OMD’s If You Leave made me think of Breakfast Club and the 80’s. That cheered me up. Hang in there!
That was going to be my first comment. Don’t trust onboard reg on 20x20mm FC to power anything but the FC itself. But you already know that.
If you’re going to use the Pololu to feed the Pico, the onboard reg should have less work to do. However, it would be even safer to feed both Pico FC and FPV gear directly from the Pololu, i.e. separately and in parallel. That way the Pololu does all the heavy voltage regulation, and the (weak) onboard regulator will have virtually nothing to do (only to regulate 5V from Pololu to 3.3V for Sat RX).
i will try to run both fc and tx02 from the same polu.
sorry for the sadness.
it was bottled up for months
i waited a long time to share my struggles.
I’ve been busy lately but I’ve managed to remix a frame to 3D print. Here’s the result:
Thing is the motors get pretty hot and I’m not too happy about it. I think that’s the frame is too large. I should try this with 7mm instead. And maybe do a smaller version for the 6mm.
Thanks for replying! Sorry, i made a mistake in my original post. I am trying to make the lightest, QUIETEST, backyard ripper possible. at the time of writing to you, there wasnt a reliable dsmx whoop FC , and that annoyed me. I wanted to whoop, but couldn’t handle ppm on my dx6, so i thought whooping would be out of the option for me… So i started thinking, well screw 6mm motor class, I’ll just try to make the lightest, fastest, and QUITEST, backyard ripper in the 8.5mm motor class…
HOWEVER, pjc just showed me this!
finally what seems to be a reliable dsmx whoop FC and its tuneable with betaflight!!
It’s on preorder which is a bummer (preorders lately have been seeming to be very backed up), but I am none the less very excited for this FC
So, i will take your suggestion, and roll with 6mm motors and this FC, and go DARK EDITION ULTRALIGHT WHOOP
I will work on the quietest/fastest 8.5mm brushed backyard setup another day!
Just tried running the pico off of just 5 V and it just keeps resetting. I have to run it on 2s or more… here we go
No apologies, @tronaton! Do not hesitate to share with the micro motor gang, ever! We are family and support group all rolled up into one! We stick together through thick and thin, grounded or flying high.
Weird. I guess the onboard regulators expect 2S voltage, and 5V is closer to 1S (3.7) than to 2S (7.4V). Not sure what to say…
I run a TX03, PikoBLX (with bad reg) off a 5V vreg. I simply put the 5V out from my reg into the PikoBLX and I solder the cam to the PikoBLX as well just to keep things tidy.
Essentially back feed 5v on to a 5v pad right? Kind of like what we did with the laz bypass on the scisky
Early stage of my first 11 series brushless build. Finally airborne. Sporting the 3rd canopy I made way back when I started while I develop a proper camera protecting canopy in the mean time. At least I can fly it while I work out its final design.
88mm pico X clone (chaser 88 frame)
Dys 1102 10000kv
GF3025 cut down to 2.24in
45grams - need to trim back a few grams
Rough day here too @tronaton, broke the brushless build’s frame after 30s of pack one, couldn’t fly the kk100 (bad config), with a fixed config it flew horribly with zero range, built a smart100 brushed, crashed gently 20s into battery one and killed the FC’s built in RX.
Maybe the above should be in the in the broken stuff thread.
I was happy with that one for the 20s it lived.
(Did fix the RX bits, took a heat gun set to 1500f to that end of the board and cooked it till the antenna fell off)
Anyway, decided to completely start over again, used a new FC, a new frsky XM RX (with mis-cut antenna, need to fix that), the 8.0x16mm motors I got thinking they were 8520, and some 65mm props.
First up the weight pics with afunta 55mm. 600mAh tattu battery.
Then with the 65mm props. There’s a measured 3.1mm tip to tip there, not a lot of room.
It made it 5 packs before I tagged a wire (I’d been playing around them, I deserved it) and got the instant-static-fpv-feed of an Issue.
Definitely destroyed the dipole antenna, may have pulled a wire off the vtx, not sure.
Other than that it’s fine, only fell 17’ or so into nice soft grass.
Oh and one or more props ate the RX antenna, too. Tasty.