Show us your builds!


#866

Just need to solder the motor wires, and heat+straighten the right front arm a little and this one will be in the air. With OSD!


#867

@Bobnova,
Looks like you might need a custom vacuumed formed canopy for that nice looking King Kong
@NotFastEnuf


#868

You know, I think you’re right!

I call that wire management style “Olde Italian F1 headers”, as a note.
Could also be Celtic Knot Wire Management.
I’m going to contemplate canopy shapes here.


#869

What OSD did you use, @Bobnova?

@JBFPV, you anywhere handy for shipping a spare Acro Whoop frame to California? I’ll buy one or three off of you.


#870

Eachine​ AIOF3, frsky flavor.
Easy enough to configure. Sadly the artificial horizon is very basic and slow, pretty much useless. The voltage and rssi are going to be very very nice though.

I can send you a few acro whoop frames in pla, not as good as abs for this stuff though.
Someday I’ll convince my printer to do abs properly!


#871

I could, got some similar requests, but I have to figure out how to send it (not much experience with sending stuff here). Also I’m not sure the creator would like it if I started selling his frame. Although his design is uploaded to thingiverse with a license which allows for free use, even for commercial purposes. He also sells the frame on his website which I think is located in USA, that might be the best option: http://www.diy.engineering/shop/acro-whoop-frame

Maybe I could do the Europe distribution :slight_smile:


#872

@Bobnova offered some, thanks. Understood about honoring the creator… that’s important.


#873

I’m going to send a few free, no licence issues there.
Even when the licence allows it I don’t really like getting paid for someone else’s design. Not when the printing is this simple especially.


#874

I just sent him a message to ask him how he feels about this. I wouldn’t feel good about it if I didn’t.


#875

Thanks, @JBFPV! I didn’t know the designer of the Acro Whoop frame sold direct. That makes most sense, esp. in US. Only thing I wonder is what material he prints with. I wouldn’t mind it being 0.5g heavier for a more resilient material, e.g. Nylon.

Way to pay it forward, @Bobnova! You print in ABS, right? (I’m still learning the various 3D printing materials.)


#876

I’ve just contacted the designer, if I credit him and put links to his design, I’m allowed to sell the frames as long as buyers agree to subscribe to his YouTube channel. I might do that (on a small scale) I think I’d enjoy that! I’ve got like 30 frames sitting doing nothing right now. But if you are based in the US, you might as well get them from his site as I will be selling them for the same price as it’s a fair price.

BTW, ABS is both lighter and stronger than PLA, don’t know about nylon weight but it might be overkill, as I’ve said I have been crashing the ABS one hundreds of times without breakage.


#877

That’s cool of him!

I’m printing in pla, bit heavier and brittle. ABS is definitely better for this sort of thing.
That’s part of why I’m not charging, mine will just get people addicted and then shatter. At least if you plow into a beam 14’ above concrete.


#878

@JBFPV: Good to hear you can distribute some Acro Whoop frames in Europe. Got it now on ABS v. PLA. It sounds like PLA is easiest to use for 3D printing beginners. Then ABS. Nylon and Ninja-Flex and such sound more difficult to use with good results (heated nozzles and beds etc).

LOL, @Bobnova! Understood about PLA now. These addictive rabbit-hole technology hobbies are all about finding and widely distributing a good gateway drug. Gotta spread the love around, and get the masses hooked! :smiley:


#879

Hi - how did you power your vtx? I was using a balance charger but would prefer to solder to fc battery leads. I have a tbs unify race vtx and it takes 2s-6s, but not sure if the fc will be ok with it soldered on. I imagine it would be?


#880

solder it straight on if it handles 2s. :wink:


#881

Thanks! That’s exactly what I did.


#882

This is officially ready to fly tomorrow. Build came out to 41g. A few grams heavier than I had hoped but should be OK with a 14g mylipo 480. Still want to shorten the standoffs on the underslung deck that protects the fc and hangs the battery … but there’s always time for that. Haven’t had an 8.5mm in the air in a long time. Also probably need to do another revision on this mold to eliminate canopy overhang on the sides … but need a fly break!


#883

Very nice build!
Is that heat shrink tubing around the bottom half of the motors?


#884

Yeah, makes a good wire saver. I like to fly low and fast and am no stranger to the occasional skip off the road - my last 8.5 build that i just retired started with about a quarter inch hanging below the motors - wore it down flush in about 6 hours stick time.


#885

Now that looks crazy awesome, especially the motor cap/wire protectors… 8.5mm builds are fun! 55g is going to rip and its all so well protected! :smiley: Very :smiley: I hope you enjoy the flight, it looks like its going to be sick…