Show us your builds!


#786

I appreciate the ideas, Gentlemen.
I’ve not babied any of my quads thus far, and this shark will get her lumps just like the rest!
I have taken the necessary precautions for my FC, the part I care most for, so as long as I don’t submerge her underwater (I’ve seen that here, still not catastrophic) I should be good.


#787

Well, for my part, I’ll be more careful with water…


#788

Oh no!!
So sorry to see that


#789

8.5mm Whoop.

Printed frame
8.5mm dark motors
FB90 props
600 MyLipos
AUW - 67g

Was hoping to build a rocket. Ended up more like a rock. I know its a bit heavy… It feels heavy, no where near as fast as I expected. I thought the Darks would have helped make it move better with the dark motors. It moves, but looses air on turns and not very punchy. Was thinking about clipping the props. Motors don’t seem like they are revving out completely. Weren’t really warm after a min in the air. I haven’t really messed with the pids yet either.


#790

That is a beautifully printed frame. Very impressive.


#791

My LHS had it on the shelf and I wanted a bigger ducted model. THere is a printed battery tray and top camera mount with it also. Battery tray is on, didn’t worry about the top yet. I’m going to play around with some different props I think. There is definitely a performance issue right now.


#792

Very true. Sweet spot for performance on 8.5mm is below 60 grams and really gets fun below 55. Keep us posted on your weight reduction process & prop changes! Looks awesome! Worth the effort to sort out for sure!


#793

So I’ve been playing with props and the differences are pretty amazing. So the props for the FB90 were useless. I pulled them off, and put on a set of clear hubsan props. They are too big for the ducts, so I raised the motors so the props were on top of the ducts. Flew much closer to what I was expecting. With some tuning would be a fun flyer, but I want the prop protection benefit of the ducts, so I’m not crazy about it. I went back the the FB90 props and made them a 2 blade set. Once again, horrible and not flyable. I then grabbed a set of Gemfan props, and while I know they aren’t good for the dark motors, I cut them down so they fit in the duct. I didn’t balance after cutting, just put them on. It flys pretty good. Not as good as the clear hubsans. I was going to cut hubsans down, but I think there may not be enough surface area. I may play around with the gyro filters a bit and see if that helps.


#794

Don’t forget those 3 blade props as an option. Seen a lot of good reports on those cut down. That would increase your blade area. I think Grayson hobby gas them in the USA.


#795

I may have to give them a try. I saw some eachine 3 blades on Graysons site. Not sure if those are the ones you are talking about?


#796

Yeah those are the ones. I have not tried then but they seem popular for 7 and 8.5 ducted builds although a complete fail for unducted. Strange. Maybe they just work better cut down.


#797

Cool… I think I have a set around here somewhere that I tried awhile back and hated. Must be the same ones :smiley:


#798

I’ve been getting a bit crazy with this project but tonight I finally flew round my livingroom under reasonable control.

I used a makerfire F3 board, soldered a signal wire to pin A07 on the F3 resource mapped stuff to fit. Using a tiny hobbyking digital servo.
Running betaflight 3.1.6.
I only tried this to see if it would be possible with a 4 motor fc as previously only one with 6 motor outputs would work.


#799

Saw a few blade 200 up there - anyone know if they can go on a 150-ish frame or something smaller? I know the flight controller is long.


#800

@FIN13: Are you asking about the Blade 200QX? It has 4" props, and has more of a mini-h layout. So it wouldn’t fit on a 150mm frame. AFAIK, 175-180mm is as small as it gets for replacement frames. IMO, top choice would be the Armattan Morphite 180. Other than the 200QX itself, the Morphite essentially created the lightweight 4" FPV category. In addition, RC-Drones (Phoenix Flight Gear) has a CF as well as a polycarbonate replacement frame. I think it’s the latter you may have seen, possibly @tronaton’s.


#801

200qx on morphite 180 is a downgrade on speed. (heavy for 2s)
The poly is the same as stock or a tad lighter & virtually indestructible…

great first brushless fpv rig imo.


#802

ya I had a morphite and was too heavy, was wondering with smaller props if a smaller frame would work was all, maybe 3"


#803

not sure as blade tunes for the 200 spread.
Usually the blade FCs seem versatile for a good range.
my 180 morphite 200qx LOS flew well still…
However protecting the ESC and FC is important.
The flimsy ribbon cable breaks easily if not protected so finding cover on a smaller spread my be challenging.

Finished my 3s 110 today.
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I tried with just one 2mm frame yet it had a bit of flex so i epoxied another to it.
Now it handles better and can punch out with no vibrations.

keni 110 X2 (gained 12g over the prior single frame build)
eachine minicube FC
eachine minicube ESC
lemmon RX
RX1105B 6500kv motors
gem fan cut down props
Tx02
450 3s


#804

@FIN13: As much as I support 3R (reduce, re-use, and recycle), I’m not sure it makes sense in this case. If you stick with 200QX motors, mounting with single giant nut is suboptimal. Same with prop mounting, which won’t take generic 3" props without a hack (also suboptimal).

If you want a 3" frame, I think you’d be better off starting from scratch with new electronics. 20x20mm electronics are cheap as chips from BG now. Same for 1104/1105 motors, which I think are better for a lightweight 3" build than 1306 (motor size on 200QX). Might as well do it right, with properly matched components.


#805

ya prob right, I may keep this with a night wolf on it for slow night flying and get something else for somethgn faster