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Hey @Denovich or somebody else knowledgeable. My copter wants to flip / spaz out and go high throttle when trying to go from idle to hovering. When I test the motors in cleanflight, instead of going like this

4 2
3 1

my motors spin up like this

3 1
4 2

I can’t seem to get my motor mix correct so the board can figure it out. I guess I wired them incorrectly when soldering in the signal wires. What mix would be correct? The motors do spin in the right direction / propellars are on correctly

Is the board orientation correct?

Yes its correct. If this helps at all, motor 1 and 4 are reversed in blheli… er I guess I kind of shown that with the
3 1
4 2

Also all my throws are correct and everything I can imagine Is ok except for freaking motor mix… ugh. Lol

I’d resolder. You may be able to fix it with config, but I think is likely to cause more headaches in the long run.

Basically just finished my second build, a 118mm FlexRC Owl! Given as I’m flying this on 3S and 4S I’m not too concerned about weight… that said, I’m certain I didn’t clear the 250g mark for registration. I blame my LED obsession for that.

To be honest, I’m not super satisfied with the build as-is, and I blame the PDB/FC combo for much of that. On motor 4 (I think), the ESC is shoved to the left off of the arm, which looks really ugly compared to the other three motors. Unfortunately, due to the placement of the battery pads, I couldn’t keep the ESC flush with the arm and get the pigtail out on top of the frame… it’s functional, of course, but not ideal. Raising the FC higher wasn’t an option, sadly, as the stupid SH plugs would be level with the props whixh would purée my wires if they got a millimeter out of line. It’d be fine on a quad where the FC wasn’t right up against the props, but on something like a 120mm X frame it’s asinine. That also affected how I could place the XSR, which I’m really not happy with… through holes would have made my life so much easier. Oh well, that’ll be for the next build. Thinking about a 1105 powered brushless 84mm… that’d be interesting.

Parts list

  • Frame - FlexRC Owl, in pusher configuration
  • FC + PDB - BeeRotor F3 AIO + BeeRotor PDB v2 w/ 6mm standoffs between the two
  • ESCs - DYS XM20A
  • Motors - DYS BX1306 4000kv (they scream loudly)
  • Props - RotorX RX3040T
  • Batteries - 850mAh 4S (I also use 1300mAh 3S from my 250)
  • Camera - Diatone 120° mini FPV camera
  • VTx - Hawkeye 200mW 32ch
  • Antenna - Aomway RHCP
  • Rx - FrSky XSR
  • LEDs - WS2812B strip mounted on popsicle sticks (34 used, 32 addressable by Betaflight)

(before I added the LEDs)

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Very nice @TheAppleFreak!

I have an owl mini on order but the parts have been delayed. Looking forward to doing something similar! Might turn out to be my most frequent flyer i think. Will have to investigate the leds as they look cool. Can you change their colour through the FC?

Unfortunately I have to move to Sydney for 3 months for work so I won’t get them now until I’m back in the UK in October :frowning:

I’m dumb. Haha all I had to do was use the motor mix calculator and all is working now! Man its a beast!!

Yes I can! …well, most of them, anyways. Betaflight supports a maximum of 32 LEDs, and I have 34 on this. The final two LEDs in the strip stay off all the time, which looks a little weird from behind, but that’s not a huge problem as the ones that are there are pretty damn bright.

The ones that can be controlled can be configured to be one of several predefined colors, as well as having the ability to change color depending on what the quad is doing. As a quick rundown, currently all but a few of the lights blink yellow when I’m making any sort of input on the sticks in the direction I’m making them (roll left? All the left side LEDs blink yellow while I’m rolling). The LEDs in the middle on each side indicate arm and alarm status. The ones on the side are throttle indicators, which shift the color of the LEDs they’re configured on (not the biggest fan of this tbh; I’d much rather it control brightness instead). I’m pretty sure there’s more, but I forget the details right now. It’s certainly very colorful, for sure.

I hear Betaflight 2.9 changed a bit of the LED code, so I’m interested in upgrading to it. I also think it’s probably too flashy, so turning down the LED overload is probably a good thing.

90mm carbon frame, SciSky, Ladybird props. I just got the camera on with foam tape, hoping for a better solution.

Also, can anyone help: while I’d been flying this without the camera for a while now with no problem, it now just cuts out sporadically. All motors just stop, even if I’m five feet away. What could cause this?


Power issue I guess.
What batteries are you using? You need decent lipos. With FPV gear there’s more current draw and the added weight also increases this.
How are the LEDs behaving during cut off?
Also try to wiggle your power leads while battery is plugged in. If your lights are flickering you should resolder your leads.
A worn out battery plug could also be the cause.
I prefer red JST plugs over losi/walkera.

But I guess it’s a battery issue (voltage sag).

The FC and camera are still powered while the motors cut off, so it’s not losing all power. I’m running the cheap Banggood 1S (380Mah and 500Mah) designed for the Hubsan x4, so maybe it doesn’t have high enough a C rating? This thing is pretty light for 8.5mm motors, so I wasn’t worried.

What 1S batteries would you recommend?

Like @chrisdo said check or resolder your battery connection on the board, the wires can break one strand at a time, still allowing current to flow but steadily getting less through. It definitely sounds like a power issue.

Mylipo 480mah 40C or graphene 600mah 65C are the favourites.
Always a good investment.

My friend built a lady owl with 1304s. It turned out great, njce build, plenty of power, but it left us both a bit flat. It’s neither fish nor fowl… It’s too fast/loud for indoors (unless you have a warehouse). And little bit slow outdoors thanks to the extra weight/drag of the frame and inefficiency of the smaller props. It’s still a bit noisy outside too. I’m coming to the realization that brushed is really the way to go for small flying spaces.

The mini owl might be a different story though. Ultimately it really depends on where/how you fly. I find that I have two modes: flying in my yard… Or flying with my friends in the wide open (racing or acro). In big spaces there isn’t much downside to big once you have the infrastructure (batteries/charger). It’s all about the same cost for the quad parts… and 220x is currently the best thrust/weight option for current battery technology. Since I jumped to 220x, my 1407 quads have languished in a state of disrepair.

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I agree about it depending on how/where you fly. I like the idea of something micro that I can load into one case with the TX, goggles and batteries and go find a field to fly in, even when it is windy. The mini owl at 88mm is smaller than my smallest brushed quad and more powerful. I’m just going on what I’ve seen from AndyRC’s video but it looks quiet enough and fast enough for my needs. At least until I change my mind again. Will see once I actually get all the parts to finish it.

@bill there is never a “last” quad hahaha…As soon as you think you have built it and are happy some guy will make some new thing and you will “need” it lol.

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Think I better add a new category for myself “QAFA” Quad And Frames Anonymous :sunglasses: @JG101


Just adding my build here too :slight_smile:

I put the camera, vtx and antenna on the bottom plate so that it’s easy to remove when I want to do LOS flying

Too bad I broke the frame a while ago for acro practice hahaha. Smashed on a concrete floor…

Ohh well, need to transfer to a new frame again.
It was my first time to fly acro today its soo damn hard! Lol i was only flying with angle and horizon, eeww… newb


My favorite brushed atm…
AlienFlight Hex by Joel with Lemon Rx DSM2 Sat, 0820-15 motor’s on selfprinted frame from thingiverse. Quanum Elite Combo Cam which i switch between the builds. Got 2 of the cam’s from microfpv but i dont like the FOV of 120.

SciSky, 0820-15 motor’s on quanum wisp

JunCheng 3015-2, 0820-15 motor’s and one of the new BG carbon frames.

Silverxxx H8 mini, 0815-17 motor’s on parrot RS frame

And my second step into brushless. Diatone Lizard 150, Eachine 1104 4000kv motor’s with blheli 10A ESC’s, Naze32 mini and FrSky xsr. No fpv setup because i dont really know what cam/vtx combo i should buy for this?


I’m having problems with CoG. Back at post… 39? I have my morphite build and its a bit heavy on the back half of it, causing the rear two motors to work harder. With it being a fairly tight build I’m not sure a good way to adjust CoG since the battery is mounted sideways. Any suggestions?