Micro Motor Community

NotFastEnuf E011 / Bwhoop Silverware Fork


Balance your tiny props
Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HRdMCE540M


Not that kind of crazy :- )

It was bouncing around not the ground, even with the idle up protection, but still flew. In another case, it constantly drifted in one direction. Or in the air, it just seemed shaky/wobbly.

Thanks, @chime13. I should try that with one set of the new props to see if that makes a difference!


Try it with every prop, not just new ones - that’s the point. I’ve been able to balance 95% of all my props using this method.


I should make a disclaimer that my fork only supports standard eachine type whoop props… in either 2 or 4 blade configuration. EVERY other prop sucks. Lol. I have not seen anyone yet use any of these “other” props and not have issues. :smile:


I can confirm, was checking out the TBS props clones from banggood and noticed the quad barely dropping altitude on min throttle, idle up was almost enough to keep it hovering. Could probably fix that by dropping the idle up speed a little but I won’t bother. I went back to stock eachine props. They are less punchy but feel smoother and more efficient as well.


Hi sorry for late reply… I’m inspired after see this video and planning to use the same led like in the video, i can use led from led usb lamp.

I’m planning using bwhoop or betafpv lite board



Interesting. The extra props I bought on eBay were meant for the Boldclash B03 and I figured (hoped?) they’d be okay. They are 4-blades and look pretty much like the Eachine props, but are shiny. Once I put them on and my quad started to dance on the floor, though, I was wary and I did put some spare Eachine E011 props on order from Banggood. They should be here soon :- )


The TBS clones have a very different shape with more blade area so they have more thrust. Are you sure the props are on the correct way? Because I can’t imagine only the different props causing this. Have one prop the wrong way and it will do the breakdance :laughing: you didn’t mess with motors or FC orientation?


I’m pretty sure they were on the right way, but since I’ve swapped them back out, I can’t be sure. It did fly okay - with some extra drift in one direction or some constant shaking. I’m sure about the motors and FC orientation, since it was better after I swapped the props back.

I’ll try to be more deliberate in my testing next time so I can be more certain about things - I didn’t ever find time this weekend. Thanks for the hints!


Oh it did actually fly? Then you are right, it wasn’t the props. I thought you meant it was breakdancing on the floor. Never mind then, I don’t know. :laughing:


It’s very likely it could be a bent shaft - that makes just as much of a mess as a bad prop. Also some boards just go bad sometimes. I have one e011 that I can’t make fly well at all. It’s a total flyaway now. Condition would come and go at first but now it is always terrible.

It’s a fine line between the best flying whoop ever and a complete disaster.

@zonners … you’re going to need a mosfet to power that led. Are you familiar with building a mosfet power circuit and selecting a current limiting resistor for your led?


Hi friends, I have 2 questions:
I have to set “#define E011” for kzkk2rx-1 boards right?
set “#define USE_STOCK_TX” and “#define RX_BAYANG_PROTOCOL_TELEMETRY_AUTOBIND” for Stock toy radio?


No idea what what that is… is that printed on the board somewhere? Lol. Sorry

And I don’t know if autobind works on the toy radio. You may want to stick to plain bayang


TBS clone 4 blades work perfectly if they are perfectly balanced otherwise its total CRAP on silverware otherwise they are really good on classic FC . Silverware work best with eachine one for Tiny whoop 65mm frame 6x15 7x15 .

About other frame size and prop size its another story since they are 2 blades mosly just like the awesome BOSS frame .


yep printed on the board, I think is EO11 fc.

ok thanks


What is a normal value for rssi on taranis Q X7 irx4 module and silverware?


Or on a devo for that matter. I’m also curious and have never even looked at mine. I think the rssi reported is the rssi of the telemetry’s link to the transmitter anyway. So I never even figured out how to interpret the values. Lol

Are any of you guys looking at this?

Also @brianquad… I noticed you closed your pull request on the telemetry voltage scaling? Don’t give up on me yet … I like the idea!! I just have not had a chance to try it before merging. I’ve been working on test builds with over sampling the gyro… so a bit distracted from my main fork.


I get values between 70 and 40 and sometimes my rssi alarm says bad reception. If this is the reception quality indicator in packets per seconds (max 200) then something is wrong in my irx4 module. I have not had any connection problems when flying.


Your question made me realize that I never really look at the RSSI value (FPV), so I set my E011 on a fence post and walked down the street with my Q X7 and IRX4+ module. I got RSSI values of 99 (right up close) down to about 85 before I lost telemetry. It didn’t appear very consistent - getting slowly lower as I walked away - it jumped up and down a lot.

I was surprised it didn’t go lower. I do sometimes get the “RSSI Low” and “RSSI Critical” verbal warnings from my Q X7, which I think are set to 45 and 42 by default. (Related - I do remember reading that the Bayang telemetry is usually expected to drop out well before you lose connection, so we shouldn’t rely on the telemetry RSSI value for low signal alerts)

@NotFastEnuf Yes, I cancelled that pull request, but replaced it with a new one. I was learning more about git and GitHub and decided to re-do how I set up the pull request. Now it is on a separate branch in my fork, making it easier for me to keep up with any of the changes on your fork’s master branch. Sorry for the complication :- )


Same equipment - I get 99 close up and 40 by the time I lose it.
I do lose telemetry (QX7 Warning) just before losing reception. In my case it seems I lose telemetry about 80% of my range - which honestly, I 'd rather have that little buffer so I don’t get out of range.

Overall - I’d like to see 100 for max and 0 for min - 40 seems like such an arbitrary number…