Quick newbie question…maybe this isn’t the best place to ask… Is there a way to connect/flash without soldering pins or wires to the board? Something simpler/faster??
The B03 board has an on-board connector, you would still have to make up a programming lead for it.
I love to fly with high D on my BF builds. I find that even though the quad feels better IMO there is definitely more audible noise and heat buildup. So in many cases, if I’m just buzzing around without putting too much stress on the quad, D could be lowered because P is doing most of the work anyway.
Again, not knowing as much as the rest of you, @NotFastEnuf did point out to me that in his tweaking, “Torque_Boost” is pretty much the same thing we’re talking about. After about 10 lipos through my SW/NFE 6mm, Torqe Boost is actually quite cool and unlike anti_gravity, very noticeable. The sense to me is that once you punch it, the craft “locks_in” into that particular axis or throttle and shoots into that direction.
In closing, as far as this topic is concerned, IMHO @silver13’s and @NotFastEnuf’s SW just have better algorithms to maximize efficiency and performance regarding, at least in my experience, micro brushed builds.
I would like to add, that the fact silverware flies so well on a slower processor compared to what BF/CF runs on, speaks volumes for the quality of programming done by silver13. It seems loop quality is a stronger performance factor than loop speed.
@chime13 Let’s talk this in “Trying to configure a Taranis QX7 with an irangex 4 in 1 multimode plus”
I found a header pin (or maybe it was a plug that I cut the plastic away from) that matched the pitch of tge programming holes. I epoxied a small carbon stick to it and made a “probe” that I just shove into the pin holes for physical contact. I’ve been using it for a year now and never have soldered anything up. Thousands of flashes…
It also works to probe a fc installed in a 7mm whoop frame from below - there is a nice little “window” to get to the pin holes. Some 6mm frames are a bit harder.
It is called torque boost, not turbo, because it actually boosts torque. Btw, Betaflight’s Antigravity is working with the I term iirc…
Thank you kind sir - my apologies. My sight isn’t what is used to be…
Just a heads up, and it’s only one report so far, but it is possible that the E011 board as it is now, might be being replaced by another with unflashable IC’s. A few posts here:
Does torque boost play nice with throttle transient? Going to try using torque boost on 0705 Boss
Below .5 torque boost … yes. 0.5 boost can probably also be run on your current tune. From .5 to 1, you better start dropping d and I also get the impression that torque boost is maxing out anything that throttle transient could be adding. Above 1.0 and approaching 2.0, your D value should be about in half.
I know you have vibration issues on the 0705. If that were mine … I would take the tune that I wished would work (but didn’t due to noise) … then cut D in half or lower, and turn on torque boost starting at 2.0. It’s a magic solution for a noisy build. In short it’s amplifying a low noise free D to much higher levels instead of having to rely on high D that is plagued in noise.
What you suggested is actually what I did yesterday, I did a dirty tune and tried torque boost with mix_lower_throttle_3 and mix_increase_throttle_3 and I’ve never had so much fun FPV. I hate using mix_lower_throttle as I hate the thought of losing throttle but I was having corner dipping on punch outs which I couldn’t tune. I’m starting the tune again this morning and wanted to know which features I could play with. Thanks for the advice one again. I might have some very noobish flight footage to put up too
Fantastic, sounds like we’re off to a good start then. Mix lower throttle is a bandaid for P values too low. Sometimes there are craft limitations that prevent getting it high enough and it becomes necessary. Hopefully that’s not the case. Go back to the regular mix lower throttle and define it at 10% just for fun. Then crank up roll and pitch P till you get that bobble under control. I’m curious to see if you end up in a constant ringing p oscillation or if we just have standard overshoot issues then. In either case … we need to know where the ideal P would be of we could get everything else to fall in line doing its job. If you can fix it with P before you hit a constant oscillation, change mix lower throttle to 30% and try again. That’s still a healthy feeling throttle without too much compromise. That dipping arm is what I identify as a “misbehavior”. It’s P’s job to stop all large misbehaviors and replace them with a nice solid tight overshoot. Then it becomes D’s job to dampen that overshoot. We know you have a noisy build so we are gonna keep using that torque boost to help out. This is just a guess but I’d say once you find a P value that stops the dip… and torque boost is on 2.0… you should be able to bring D up to the point where controls smooth out and the overshoot is gone. Best of luck!
I tried having a tuning session today but family commitments, diminishing light and getting the quad stuck in a tree made it a bit difficult
What I found was that mix_lower_throttle doesn’t work that well for brushless so I went back to mix_lower_throttle_3 and the corner dipping went away. With the regular mix_lower it didn’t have any impact on dipping and I couldn’t tune it out.
I tried following your tuning instructions, a bit different for me as I normally tune LOS quads which is easier. I tried doing it FPV only so all the things you described I tried to recognise. Anyway, I found I got constant oscillations so I dropped P till I got just strong wobbles after manoeuvres which left P at around 11. Then I put Torque_boost on and started pushing the D up. Worked a treat but I think these motors are just too noisy to get a smooth tune out of them. Or it’s probably my lack of experience tuning FPV. I may have to try looking at soft mounting as SirDomsen recommended, it’s just a very fiddly build.
For what it’s worth Torque_boost is great and actually when I did some flips and rolls, it was very crisp and agile. I did have some footage but I’m using a Hubsan 107D tx as DVR and it kept dropping out. Plus my goggles range seems to be 15m…
Regarding the E011 board, the guy who got the new unflashable one contacted BG and they said “Manufacturer said they have updated it.” Here’s the post:
I was checking the schematics of the E011 and B-03 boards, and it looks like the only differences are:
- B-03 has 12 power supply filter caps instead of 9
- B-03 uses MPU-6050A gyro instead of M540
- B-03 has a pull-up on the gyro clock signal
- B-03 uses 2310 FET’s to drive the motors instead of AOSHB
I hope the B-03 is a suitable alternative (I don’t know because I haven’t built a whoop). They look to be the same size and shape but I never measured them. I do have some E011 and B-03 boards here I could measure. It might be difficult to buy up old stocks of the older E011 board because the sellers don’t have a clue, all they know is that the board is for an E011. The pic they use can be misleading too, as it is with BG’s pic.
That seems to be very disappointing news but the bwhoop hardware appears to be better or at least equivalent anyway. Extra filtering sounds good. I don’t know enough about gyros to compare that. Besides with the betafpv lite available now as well as the bwhoop … we still have both bolt patterns covered.
I’ve only ever used the B03 boards and they seem fine to me!
Wow… R.I.P. E011! SADNESS!
This is one of my two E011-Santas i had in the mail just yesterday. The other one is precisely the same.
STM32F03 & XN297 wireless & M540 (gyro - i guess at the moment)
Don’t have my santa boards on hand but from memory mine looks the same (from banggood).