Micro Motor Community

NotFastEnuf "Brushless Boss Series" - 3D printable frames


Many more than that - each specific combination of equipment will have a dedicated revision. For example:
90mm, 16x16, 0705 racerstar
90mm, 16x16, 0705 sunnysky
90mm, INDY, 0705 racerstar
90mm, INDY, 0705 sunnysky
90mm, E011, 0705 racerstar
90mm, E011, 0705 sunnysky

One thing I just thought of is what is the length of the included mount hardware between racerstar and sunnysky 07 series. Can anyone answer?

On to the 11xx series we have two motor bolt patterns as well. So in total there will be twelve 90mm frame variations.


Eeeesh, that’s a lot of work NFE. If it’s easier for you, the 0705 100mm I requested can be altered to fit in line with the other frames.


No worries man, I don’t mind making them. And your frame is already part of the standard offering. I consider it a must for those of us that participate in silverware!


Lol. Just modify the model and hit ‘save as’…


Haha! True but anyway to lighten the load


This is a weird proposal, but NFE, if it helps, I’d be willing to design or modify the mounts/frames.

BeeCore OMNIBUS F3 V1 Flight Controller Built-in OSD Integrated 5A Blheli_S

I’d take you up on it if I had approached the boss project with any sort of professional organization … but my source files are a MESS! They have been like a living organism evolving from from some early caveman boss. Well more like mutating. Lol. It’s not a big deal - I’ll have it knocked out in no time. I just finished the 100mm bottom cover plate and increased the thickness of the canopy guides on the 100mm for better abs durability. If a test print looks good I’ll start posting stl files tonight on the 100.


@NotFastEnuf Several micro-BL designs have successfully used the ESC on bottom arrangement. The one that comes to mind is QuattroVolante from Italy. I think @flexrc may have tested ESC on bottom as well.


I usually put ESC on the top and FC on the bottom to simplify wiring on Mira and Nano X


@Brainstorm - thanks for the feedback. Here is a look at the roll pan which will protect either an esc or fc - whichever the builder chooses to bolt up to the bottom of the frame. I’d probably go with fc on the bottom like @flexrc. Would make building easier while soldering up the esc and allows 3 screw access to the fc since the top will be covered by the vacuum formed canopy and camera that Id rather leave in place once installed.

Edit: stl files will have to wait till tomorrow - just received word my wife is broke down in our only street legal vehicle …so I will be turning wrenches instead when it gets home on the tow! Ahhh life. :smile:


Good luck! And thanks for doing this!


Car fixed… back to our regularly scheduled boss programming! (Which is wait till everyone is asleep and I get hobby time from midnight to 2am! :wink:)


Might be time to learn how to use Git and stuff it all on there. That’d be pretty awesome really.

Best of luck with the wife’s car, that routine is no fun.

EDIT: not intending snark, that’s my thought on Git because it confused me horribly the few times I attempted it.


Post # 2 has the stl files for the prototypes that I have completed. So far thats 0705 series in the INDY (for these new brushless whoop aio boards), and the E011 (for my silverware brothers).

I will try to get 16x16 done tomorrow evening. I also included my molds for the shanghai mullet and the mohawk mullet if you want to try your hand at vacuum forming, the bottom roll pan cover for the frames, a camera mount that I particularly like and also works with the shanghai mullet. I have not tested it on the mohawk - heck I haven’t even printed or vacuum formed the mohawk yet myself either so that’s totally a prototype too. LOL. Have fun guys if you print one of these and keep feedback rolling - I hope to find time to print them soon too!


Cheers Travis,100m 0705 Racestar Indi in PETG, Now Printing…


Cool! Can’t wait to hear your impressions @Theon. One thing I did not account for intentionally is where motor wires enter the stack area. I just could not decide where I wanted to put the holes so I left it up to conventional means (drill your own hole) and your discretion. Once you’re printed - I am curious to see where you decide to route your wires if you choose to make a hole with a dremel.


First Print Failed to adhere adequately and started to bow up about a 3rd the way in. Second print I disabled the fan, which I find best with PETG unless attempting overhangs. I followed your recommendations regarding print settings of 0.1mm Layer, 1.2mm Wall, ect. The print came out very well, other than a bit of the usual PETG Dags. The Tops of the motor guards however lacked any real strength and I ended up trimming them down approx 5mm off Deck height. The Frame feels very solid and came to a bare weight of 7.3g
I have temporarily mounted my 0705 8000KV motors (I only have 16x16 Hardware to spare ATM so am eagerly awaiting your next release), with 65mm KingKong props. All fit’s nicely and looks great., with a prop clearance of about 5mm. The only thing I would change is a slightly wider gap between the arm struts at the motor mounts to allow the motor wires a little more room, but easy enough to trim with a hobby knife.
Well done.



And with ESC, Receiver, Cam and a bare board should give a fair indication of final weight.


Dang! That is a sweet looking build! Anxiously awaiting next paycheck…