NotFastEnuf "Brushless Boss Series" - 3D printable frames


#61

I’m going to design such that the canopy and the under pan/roll pan both screw into the frame using whoop screws on the front 3 whoop spaced holes. As for the 16x16 stack … we could do either whoop screws or a long 2mm bolt and nut. 5mm tall rough hole spacers will be part of the frame. I may even design some push clips that pop into the holes and secure our stuff.


#62

The other option I would recomend (allthough I have not personally tested one but have one on the way) is the new AIO Brushless Beecore boards. https://www.banggood.com/BeeCore-OMNIBUS-F3-V1-Flight-Controller-Built-in-OSD-Integrated-5A-Blheli_S-DSHOT600-Brushless-ESC-p-1235648.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
I stocked up on 16x16 hardware while it was on special last year, And have both 1S and 2S stacks awaiting a better frame as well as 0703’s in 12 000KV and 10 000KV and 0705 in 8 000KV. Also Rolls of ABS and PETG. So, as soon as your ready to release those STL’s I’ll be printing and testing…


#63

I’m getting close. Delayed a bit by printer issues jamming up the works on sending out a whole list of brushed boss frames. My extruder is slipping on abs (I think) - cause my nylonX prints are flawless (filament has a very rough non slip texture). So extruder is getting cleaned out tonight and I may as well do the rest of the maintenance it Ned’s. Belts tightened, rods oiled and cleaned, fans replaced. … ahh the joys of printing. Anyway, I should be posting by the end of the week. I’m gonna focus on getting the complete 0703 / 0705 lineup done first … then on to 11XX next week hopefully.


#64

Cool, I also have a set of spare 1103 8 000KV here, so would love to give that a go also.


#65

Any thoughts on cams for these builds? I’ve about moved to the point where I’m mostly trying to work with the Runcam Nano and eventually maybe Micro Swift on these 80-130 builds. Which pretty much means separate VTX boards as well.

Really I’d love to play around with some full body designs in the direction of the PocketQuads stuff, though at the moment am having enough fun trying to get a new working Dys Elf canopy design going that can hold a Runtime Nano… (annoying design of using a canopy with screws to sandwich together the quad.)


#66

Something that does concern me though regarding the 07’’ motors is they are rather delicate, and are probably best suited to a design incorporating a Prop Guard.


#67

From what I hear you’re right. Maybe we should just exclude 0703 from a recommended motor option for the open frames. Seems better suited to a whoop anyway.


#68

I have been going through the available designs on Thingiverse, and have not yet found one I am happy with, which led me to purchase a pair of B06 frames and the Beecore FC. However I’m not so sure that the motors I have are best suited to this frame as I see they are recommending 15 000KV motors. I have recently upgraded to an I7 and GTX1050 4G Vid card with the intent of learning 3D modeling, But school holidays have been keeping from concentrating on this. My thought was something very similar to what you have above but with a light weight,simple prop guard able to run a larger than 40mm prop. The Mother in Law arrives today! so, I should be getting some more time to work on learning to use my new tools. I really like what you have done so far, and if you do not intend to continue with the 070’ designs would greatly appreciate if you could share them with me so that I have something to start with.


#69

To be honest @Zenroth - this series is what I would consider light duty. The focus is on weight reduction and the simplest possible design. The target motors are on the smaller end of the spectrum too. I wouldn’t use anything larger than 1103 and 2s on this myself. So the intention is ultra lightweight frame - sub 4 gram aio cam - lightest possible stack. The most possible power out of 2s and tiny motors in a sleek little packake unfortunately at the sacrafice of better video options is the direction I am going here. This to me will be a front yard flyer. Light and safe enough to rip in the neighborhood.

Now i do intend to move on to a full bodied frame design next that is targeted at above 1104 - 3s to 4s, the micro ccd cams… more of a high powered and full featured micro. The problem is i think even this project will be rapidly approaching the limits of what abs can do and heavier/more powerful components are going to start to demand more exotic filaments. Thoughts?


#70

@Theon - good point. 0703 lower kv needs a big prop option too. OK… we will lose the motor guards from the 0705 design and incorporate prop guards in their place. What are you thinking for the largest possible prop? 50mm? Pick your favorite prop and I will get you a frame for it.


#71

I’m planning on using tx02, but apparently ordered tx04.


#72

@NotFastEnuf I think there are potential balancing points, but light weight is of course always good for every aspect of a micro just about. I know at the moment I’m focused on this 2S, 1102-1104, 80-110mm range micro that is 200mw, xm/xm+, potentially running an AXII, and ideally a better cam. Everything has trade offs of course, but for instance I found sticking a micro AXII on my little 1102 elf presented a much more enjoyable flying experience than a lighter dipole, or god forbid the bare copper wire antenna. (Parts of the kitchen are a video death trap with that antenna) This naturally starts to extend to camera, VTX power and a few other areas. Its one of the interesting build challenges really of this micro scale. From a 3D printing perspective I certainly expect to be heading to Nylon and NylonX eventually.

However, how far ABS can go is a good question. Whats the criteria for that? I know with the brushed series it seemed like you were aiming for extreme durability as one of the metrics. (I still need to try out a 7mm ABS version, I tried out one in PLA and it was quite fun till the 1st serious crash broke 2 legs, though that was expected.) Yet I’ve broken 2mm CF frames inside the house with 1102/1103 motors. Thats always annoying since getting a replacement frame unless you have several tends to depending take weeks and can be semi-expensive. An ABS frame that I can print out in less than 2 or 3 hours, costs probably 20-30 cents in ABS and that has okay durability, becomes a interesting balancing point for myself anyways.

I’ll certainly be following along though, cause either way this goes its certainly bound to be interesting. I also need to look into environmental factors with some of these materials. One of my biggest challenges at the moment to flying is -20f and colder weather with tons of snow.


#73

I think thats where well be on this. But even with my favorite 20g 2s battery - all up weight is still going to be close to 55 grams for my 1102 build. Contrast that to my Boss 8 at 36 grams with a battery or a Boss 8.5 at 46 grams with a 14 gram pack - and we are pushing weight up a pretty good clip. By the time we get above 1104 and 3s - ABS will snap like pla IMO. I hope to snap a few at 55 grams - cause if I dont it’s just not fast enough!

My suggestion is to go straight to NylonX. Its so much stronger and it prints beautifully compared to abs. Well worth the $$. If it weren’t for prototyping and needing heat resistant molds for vacuum forming - I’d be done with abs personally.

Wow thats cold! I do break alot more frames in the cold. And it doesn’t get that cold in sunny Florida. But we have been in the 30’s and 40’s on and off for a few weeks and printed frames do break more often.


#74

@NotFastEnuf I think 55-60 should be pretty nice really on 2S, running various 2" props if thrust data is ever to believed, that could well come in at a 4.5 to 5 weight to thrust ratio. (With 1103s anyways, I’m waiting on 1102 11500s to try an take a gander at those numbers with various props.)

Yeah NylonX looks pretty fantastic, I just need to get setup with an all metal hot end, maybe next month heh

Florida must be nice for flying, haven’t been back since 2005 threw a tree through the house, and left me without power or water for 2 - 3 weeks, but Alaska interior temps certainly do present challenges, to batteries especially.


#75

Yeah Travis, I recon 50mm props are what I’m after. on an approx 90mm frame, Ideally with both 16x16mm mounts and whoop canopy/indi mounts. And (lol), both 070’mounts as well as sunnysky mounts, as well as an 1103 option. with an optional prop guard.I know, Iknow, I need to learn to do this myself, and I’m getting there, just did a big rearrange as so I now have 3 screens, and 3 computers, dedicating the I7 to CAD…( eventually)


#76

I’d suggest the prop guard for the 80mm frame. It’s already half the base weight of the 90mm frame and will run 50mm props.


#77

Sounds good.


#78

Is the 100mm still going with the motor guards?


#79

Yes, as I organize my thoughts on this and process feedback - here is what I’m thinking:
80mm - 0703 - w/propeller guards
90mm - 0705 w/motor guards - 11xx w/o
100mm - 0705 w/motor guards - 11xx w/o

Each category will have 3 fc mount options (INDY, E011, and 16x16), and all alternate oddball motor bolt patterns will be considered (like sunnysky 07 series and racerstar 1103).


#80

Does that mean 2 frame options for the 90 and 100mm frames?