NotFastEnuf "Boss Series" Brushed Frames - 3D Printable (v2 stl files post #368)


#161

#162

Well my 10 set package of h8 mini props just arrived. I’m sorry to say I’m disappointed in them. They hit a higher rpm than hm830’s for a little higher top speed but have less low rpm “grunt”. Compared to x9’s, they are slower and have less bite in corners. That’s all ok… here is the bad news … so many of them are unbalanced beyond being able to use them. So the micro prop balencer will also be required on these.

So the most reliable .8 mm shaft prop I’ve found is the hm830’s. The fastest is the x9. X9’s and h8mini’s are equally troublesome as far as balance goes.


#163

Just wanted to say thanks for the awesome frames. I have printed a few out but have yet to fly them. Waiting on a few parts. In the mean time, i was trying to think of a way to make the whoop style frame more durable and i had an idea. Not sure how well it would work, but as an example, I started playing around with vase mode and realized that even with PLA my print came out super flexible. I was wondering if you essentially made the ducts only one shell thick would it just bounce off of things instead of breaking? That would also cut down on the weight. The only tricky part i can think of is figuring out how to attach the ducts to the frame securely so they dont break at the joints. Anyway here are some pictures showing just how flexible my PLA turned out.


#164

Here is the second picture since i could only post one as a new user.


#165

Fantastic!!! Glad you are getting into a Boss!! What flight controllers are you going to use??

Excellent suggestion on vase mode… that could help alot. You “hit the nail on the head” when you pointed out failure of ducts at the attachment points. That is exactly where they fail after being bent in. The solution to this was to test different wall thicknesses till there was enough flex to crash into stuff but just enough resistance to flex that it didn’t fatigue the plastic at the attachment joint. That’s pretty much been nailed for abs in the posted designs. Abs is just not the right material for a whoop frame though. It has the worst layer bonding of almost any extruded plastic. Should know more after the nylon and petg come in as far as which direction will be better to go.

Also update on my print chamber … temps get nice and toasty with only fluorescent lighting in there (an old repurposed fish tank light) and the heat from the printer. I threw a big abs print at it which inevitably failed before and had no cracking and good adhesion to build plate. I’m excited.


#166

I only have a beta75 at the moment so i was just swapping components over to try out the boss 7mmXL. Here is a picture of it mocked up. It turned out well but i need to do some more tweaking to my printer, im just getting back into after a hiatus. I had a weak spot on one of the motor mounts which you can see where it cracked in the picture. Naturally i also stripped my screws that hold the FC in place so thats what im waiting on at the moment. Also trying to figure out the best way to mount the battery.

congrats on the enclosure! thats definitely one of the next things on my list. would love to start printing with ABS.


#167

Cool idea with the frame brace - did you just print the regular boss frame till a certain layer height or is it a custom stl?
If so can you share your stl/settings please?


#168

@rushmorexxx - dude that locks sick!!! Nice color selection! If you’re using pla , hit your motor mounts with a heat gun for like 2 seconds and then you should be able to push your motors in without stress in the plastic. Very good job dude! Also if you strip a screw … just put in a few extruded strands of material or part of a printed skirt down in the hole - just like flossing a loose prop. It will give you a good friction fit.


#169

It’s just the standard frame 1/2 printed and trimmed down to suit.


#170

@rushmorexxx, nice colors!!! Surely looks cool with a canopy also, I have to find a way to try out thermoforming. You should find some other props: from what I’ve seen with my builds, larger 2 blades props are way more efficient than these tinywhoop style props, huge increase of power delivery, and alsmost no change on flight time!


#171

So i did some digging around and found some screws to put everything together. I also printed a couple more frames since none of them specifically fit my FC (betafpv board). I ended up using the tiny f3 version of the 7mmXL. It required just a tiny bit of trimming to get everything to fit just right. I also figure out a makeshift way to mount my battery. I couldnt find any rubber bands or anything like that, but i did find the safety cap to a disposable razor. I heated it up to make the gap just a tiny bit bigger but now my batteries fit perfectly. I used short screws to attach it to the underside of the frame. Im guessing if i had gone with the E011 frame i would have already had a second mounting hole, in my case i just made a new one in one of the frame braces. Id like to try that frame after i test this one because it seems a little more flexible. Right now im pretty heavy at 35g but i think if i switch frames and trim down my battery tray i can get that down a bit. Anyway, here are some pictures!


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#174

Very creative! I see what you’re talking about with the beta fpv flight controller … it doesn’t fit in the canopy guides on the back. I know that they have since changed that fc to a true diamond INDY mount pattern in its newer revision. I researched that and decided not to redesign since that shape fc is no longer produced. You could screw it to the bottom as you mentioned. That’s probably what I’d do. Very nice build!


#175

I have 2 wonderful BOSS builds: ThankS @NotFastEnuf

1 - 0816s, TinyF3, OrangeRX, VM275, 60mm props, 500mah lipo = Awesome! 2nd favorite quad.
Notes: 65mm props was just too much and 55mm props weren’t enough. I get over 3.5min of flight time

2 - 0615s, NanoQx FC, VM275, 46mm props, 180mah lipo = giggling like a little girl…
Notes: Flipped frame upside down and backwards to accommodate FC and AIO. 220mah lipos couldn’t give me more than 1 minute flight time. With the 180s, I get 3 minutes. No oscillations at all!


#176

I just got my hands on a Boss Whoop 6mm… Video and Flying to come soon hopefully.

While i was building it, I had an idea…

What if the ducts were just separate and fit over the motors just like the frame? Then you would not need so many different patterns and the ducts can be replaced easier than the entire frame. You could even just take them off if you go outside. :wink:

This would also allow you to run the ducts a little higher if you wanted so the motors do not have to stick out the bottom so far.

Just a thought


#177

I like you’re thinking! I’ve considered the same thing myself. That is one of the directions I plan to explore with nylon when I get some. You are also correct about the motor positioning helping prevent failure of the lower subframe. Unfortunately I do not think abs material will allow a reliable connection from duct back to motors via struts. Layer bonding is too weak. I have some petg on the way also which is claimed to have excellent layer bonding.

I look forward to your contributions to this project!!


#178

#179

So as luck has it I found some local nylon cf 15 filament from “fillamentum” even -10% as a black friday deal today and ordered it right away, should be here on tuesday so I can join in on some prototyping :smile:

I do have a newborn at home so no idea how soon I will be able to give it a test print.


#180

@ghostface - first let me say CONGRATULATIONS!!
and having recently been there myself … I took advantage of the sleep deprivation training and now that the youngest is a year old i use that additional awake time for hobby :wink:

Case in point: 1:30 am and I just took my first ever petg print off the print bed. A boss 6 whoop. First impressions of petg: it’s gonna be fun to dial in the retraction settings. Print was pretty messy compared to abs. Layer adhesion blows away abs making removal of supports very difficult and general cleanup challenging but maybe even good enough to return to a strut type duct. Stiffness is very similar to abs but a bit more flexible. A slow bend will cause permanent deformation a bit sooner than abs … but the deformation range extends much further than abs before failure. I think petg may be an improvement over abs for a whoop frame. Weight penalty is present- about a half a gram in the boss whoop.
Will fly/crash it tomorrow and see what breaks first.