NotFastEnuf "Boss Series" Brushed Frames - 3D Printable (v2 stl files post #368)


#101

I should have a file for you to flash by tomorrow night that is tuned for
8.5mm. Can’t wait to sit down and watch the video!!!

I put an 8.5 in the air myself today too. More low end torque than the boss 7 and an overall smoother feel but top speed was about the same. That 7 is fast and I still haven’t even tried the x9 props yet. It may be the king of the series for speed!

Great job @CRayTech - thanks for sharing the process! I enjoyed it :smile:


#102

Tonight I definitely need to balance a set of x9 props so I can push the boss 7 to the limit. I can’t wait to see what it does on those! And the 70k rpm motors are gonna be another nice kick in the pants. This is just the beginning for the boss 7.


#103

That’s very interesting, your boss 7mm in that video is with Bwhoop motors!? The e011 motors are better even! And that’s as fast as an 8.5mm? That just may be the sweet spot :smirk:
So ever since I bought my scale I’ve been going a little nuts weighing everything and then I spotted a couple old lipos nearing the end of their life span so this happened:



The end result is a quarter gram by cutting wires short, and almost half a gram by unwrapping the tape, and removing ground wire completely. What I want to know is if I do that to all my batteries, at that point, am I sick?


#104

Cutting weight is always a good practice! Just be careful when it comes to modding lipos. Vent one and you’ll be sick! Lol.

Update on x9 props… not a whole lot faster. But some. They actually feel a little smoother as the increased drag is sort of like natural D gain. The hm830’s spool up faster and have a very linear throttle band. The x9 props spool a little slower … hit peak power at about 3/4 throttle and don’t seem to have much after that. So a bit over propped… just how I like it. :smile:

Update on the 8.5mm … I added a pigtail for my tattu 600’s. I hear the motors hit higher rpms… but overall punch and top speed is about the same - gains are spent hauling the extra weight. Handling is a bit better on the smaller battery trying to hug a corner tight at speed… but flight time is also less. Kind of a draw. Guess that choice will depend on my mood.


#105

@NotFastEnuf your builds are a great inspiration!
I printed my own 80mm 615 frame for E011 FC, but I can’t manage to tune it properly! Care to share your PIDs / silverware version?
Thank you very much!

By the way, it surely looks less cool, but if someone is interested by a frame design with no canopy but still a camera mount, i could share mine.


#106

You request for some experience with printing in nylon some posts before.
Im actually play with Taulman nylon Alloy 910, colorFabb XT-CF20 carbon and fillamentum nylon CF15 carbon.

All three filaments have its own quality but where lights already there are always shadows too.
In this case the 910 nylon are incredible stiff and flexi. Nearly impossible to brake it, but on other side it warps at printing highly and its a challange to get them stick on your printbed.
I’m still playing with different things like blutape, kaptontape, sprais etc…
It works with some minor issues but its not as easy like a print is with pla.
High temps on headbed beteeen 80 - 100° and on nozzle around 260 ° makes it not useable for all 3d printer.
Another downpoint is how easy it bends.
This feature does not make it easy to get enough stiffness with thiner material thickness.

Anyway,
over all its an interresting material to play with but in my opinion not the best for printing out the ultimate frame.

The colorfab XT-20 carbon is a lot easier to print and has a realy cool frosted surface after print.
Nozzle temp around 240 - 260° C makes it usable for most 3d printer.
Its extremly stiff but the downside of that is it breaks easily.

For my testing i think i would prefer the nylon CF15 carbon.
In case of the 15% of carbon it is stiffer then the nylon910 but still flexible enough to damp hard impacts and do not brake.
The warping effekt and the bad printbed stickness makes the setup tricky like the nylon 910 but overall i get the best compromise off all features.


#107

That’s excellent informative @eXzez! Sounds like nylon/carbon will be perfect for a whoop frame if i abandon the subframe and return to traditional struts and motor mounts. That would limit contact with the printbed and help manage warping and the carbon properties would increase the stiffness of the frame. Thank you very much for that suggestion! !

@Thierry - excellent rendition of the design!! Looks fantastic! My tune is not perfect for the boss series on e011 but it’s close enough to fly and have fun. I’m still changing it everyday. I’ll post it tonight and tag you so you can flash it. What transmitter are you using for an idle up/arm switch?


#108

@NotFastEnuf Great I can’t wait !!
I’m already a big fan of your “acro only” E011 version of silverware, which I edited a bit for some simple configuration items.
My TX is an FS-I6 with DIY multiprotocol arduino module. I actually didn’t configure any arming switch, I just have a “reset/rebind” switch, and I programmed idle up on an aux switch on my TX (it’s always on with the tiny whoop, but heh…). Is it actually possible to have real arming with bayang protocol?
Anyways, it’s no hassle for me to play around with the code, don’t bother making a dedicated conf.


#109

@Thierry - OK cool. This is the file I’m running on the boss series. It is actually the tune I’m using on the 7 and the 8.5 since I have taken apart my boss 6. If I remember correctly I had tested P for roll and pitch up to 23 and D for roll and pitch up to 14.5 on 6mm. The roll and pitch pids in this file are lower but should be a good starting point. If it misbehaves at all just bump up towards those numbers. I think I also changed motor pwm rate to 32000 and used the 85_32khz motor curve for 6mm as well. You will know pwm rate and motor curves need to be changed if you get a mid throttle oscillation in hover. This file is on 24000 pwm rate and motor curve none - find that in config.h. Either way - all my filtering magic, code changes, and other settings are in there which should give you the ability to get a decent tune. Oh yeah… last thing is the idle up/arm channel - I have it set to devo 5 … you need to replace the word DEVO with the word MULTI. (also in config.h)
…sure you don’t need a dedicated config??? LOL
For Boss
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VM_Tjyki05mYRmijjo0Jor3g9Y9Tp0M- (outdated - i suggest you download the most current posting at the top where frame files are posted)
For Whoops:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1EKx_pZWVTLUZSO3NVzrbGXIdroiBJJHR
I went ahead and gave you a link to a whoop file I made for JBFPV too. Update your whoop- its worth it.


#110

@NotFastEnuf Thank you!
No time before work unfortunately, I’ll try this tonight!
No worries regarding setup, the changes you mention are the ones I tinkered with in order to adapt the version you posted on RCgroups!


#111

It flies !!! (flew)
Brilliant!.. until one motor died on me. The 46mm props seem a bit oversized for the 6mm motors. Well I’m out of good 6mm motors (tried with E010 stock, much less power) but I have a few 7mm ones, so I guess I’m just a print away from flying a Boss (clone) again.
Very nice for small space outdoor flying, I’m gonna bump up my skills with this one, thank you again @NotFastEnuf!


#112

Agreed! 46mm is over propped for fast 6mm motors. The get pretty hot but they sure do go fast! I killed my first set in about 200 flights - they were still running but performance had suffered. Overall I considered that acceptable life for boldclash 18’s that only cost 1$ each when bought in a pack of 20 - especially considering the level of performance. You could always try gw008 or nano qx props - I think both are less aggressive and may actually be the sweet spot for 6mm. I have some gw008 inbound and will test them on 6mm and report back on motor temps when they arrive. 7mm on the other hand doesn’t even break a sweat on 46mm. They start to get overpropped at 50mm (x9’s) so that is where I will stay since they are only 5$a set. All in all - I am more likely to destroy motors by bending shafts in crashes “flying like I stole it” over concrete. I was surprised I even got as far as I did. :slight_smile:

Congratulations on getting in the air - sorry you lost a motor so soon! Thank you very much for participating and providing valuable feedback.


#113

This is my favorite build right now. This build has a little bit of everything in it.
90mm Boss Frame
Betafpv FC
Eachine FB90 Camera
Eachine H8 mini props
BetaFPV Battery
Eachine E011 motors.
Battery Tray from Eachine E012
Adjustable Camera Mount from USAQ



#114

Awesome designs!
Can you add a tiny f3 6mm whoop version please?


#115

So you dont think PLA will work?
Else i could offer @chrisdo to print one or 2 or so and send it - as a gift … that is not diapers again :wink:

And yes

i bow in respect, sir!


#116

The whoops printed in abs are IMHO just about a waste of time. Granted at only 2.5 grams - they are more durable than anything else on thingiverse - but I fly pretty aggressively and break one just about every session - not on the first crash but without fail by the end of a good sit down with a pile of packs. It’s not the ducts that I’m breaking now but the subframe (motor arms). I’ve discontinued development of an abs whoop frame - I just don’t think it can be done in that material with the durability and weight we expect.
On a plus side I have high hope for nylon and I’m currently modifying the design and my printing setup accordingly. I think we will find the ultimate whoop frame there.
If you still want it - I will add the mount rails for the tiny f3 for you and post a stl. Maybe it’s worth it to you for the light weight and better flight characteristic if you have your own printer. Otherwise - stand by for a nylon specific design. Should be ready in a few weeks!


#117

@mcRich Thanks for the kind words. Pla will fly - but it’s gonna shatter on your first crash. I designed specifically around the properties of printed abs to survive crash impact forces. And aside from the whoops - these frames are super tough to be so light weight. If you have access to a pla printer - other than durability in a crash - they will fly fine.

If you’re getting someone to print one for you … don’t go with any of the “lite” versions. They are designed just below the required strength to survive repetitive bashing. Sort of bonus to save even more weight for those of you that can print and replace at will. The designs not marked “lite” are comparable in strength to carbon fiber frames. The 7xl may even be stronger and is as @CRayTech put it - the junkyard dog of the bunch.


#118

@NotFastEnuf and @CRayTech: I was just thinking… would it be possible to get an Eachine E011 off the shelf, and transplant all of the stock components, incl. E011 FC, onto a Boss 90mm/0715 frame?

Just brainstorming for winter projects. I’m trying to think of an easy/lazy way to try a Boss frame, without having to buy and deal with a BetaFlight Whoop FC. :wink:

PS: Same question for stock Nano QX or Inductrix (both non-FPV) components. It’s going to be a few weeks until I can sort through that box of old brushed quad parts. But I’d like to start with the parts I already have, instead of buying more stuff. :relaxed:


#119

@NotFastEnuf welcome. Thanks for the extensive reply.

At the moment i’m printing PLA only.
I see i have to improve to print ABS or even get to Nylon. Will have to improve the printer itself first - is just a K8200.
Secondly i have to improve flying. I think i didn’t even achieve the ‘non-lite’ class piloting skills :smiley:


#120

Yes the frame is for 7mm motors and the e011 fc. So it would work perfect.