Look in pid.c… all my tunes are there. The tunes for 8.0mm and 8.5mm are both there… But I admit are not super recent. I just built an 8.5mm and it’s flying well on the listed 8.5mm tune with gyro filters at 70 and d filter at 90.
Tried everything there, I even found some longer screws so everything sits comfortable, but sometimes it just lives on it’s own and hits the ceiling even at 5% throttle. Must be the motors then…
Did you put my filter suggestions in yet? Lower Roll/ pitch p and D by 3 or 4 points.
I can confirm ! it fly so god damn well !
The Boss8 now behaves okay(ish). It feels a wee bit jumpy on the throttle, but I’ve only flown whoops so far this size, so I have now comparisons yet. But my god it has punch. Really hope to try it out outside soon.
On the other hand, I built a Boss7 with 55mm props and syma x5c-1 720 motors. That didn’t work out well, They vibrate so much, it’s unflyable. Just like the 8520 racerstars, I have a bunch of those and they vibrate like crazy and have uncontrollable oscillation. I’ve tried 2 sets of those motors, all new.
I have a box of hm830 props on the way for my betafpv 716’s I use in my whoops, they seem like a much smoother motor, so I have high hope of that combination.
Thanks a lot for everything you have done so far to these things, and for us. I’ve never thought I could have so much fun with something so cheap and small. You rock!
Ps: I don’t really know my way around here, but I’ve spent a few nights reading all the posts to figure out what to do and what not do do, what propeller to get, etc. I know it’s part of the learning curve and stuff, but a small excerpt of what parts work (like 2 of 3 types of motors were a no-go for me) and what parts not would be great help for someone who has some experience in the hobby (and doesn’t have tons of free time), but not with this class.
I dont know if it’s a known fact, but the boss 8 XL with 66mm props fit standard 85mm whoop cases pretty well.
Here flight footages of my new recent Boss 8 , had throttle issue on my maiden , it was due to my D filter who was too high and using 250mah hv , fixed my filtering with the help of NFE and swapped battery for a 550mah which completely changed my experience . Used to fly 250mah / 550mah back to back on old Nfe version without issue but with the new filtering you gotta be exact well for 8mm . But most of time its on the pilot side and his build sometime its tiny point that we forgot to look at …vibration is our enemy ! Long life to silverware NFE
OT, sorry; @Taylormadearmy and @notfastenuf So I built my 3D printer around four weeks ago and I have yet to print anything out of getting totally overwhelmed with all the information out there. I’ve joined a few printing groups but can’t work up the courage to ask simply, what the hell do I do next?
I’ve built it and like so many things I do to put me off do something else, I have loaded a bootloader, marlin vanilla, ordered a all metal hotend and turned a pi zero into an octopi for wireless function, however after that, I’m lost. I guess I learn how to level the bed first right? Will that calibrate my X,y,z axis or can I count on that being good from stock with marlin? Then after that?
What printer did you go for? Search for getting started guides for it on YouTube.
Either way the most important thing is calibration and a flat bed and level bed, so yes, get that right first. Prints will be disappointing or more likely simply fail of you don’t have that right.
Then try printing some simple objects in PLA first. No point in trying more exotic materials until you have PLA working…
I went for the Ender 3. Thanks, will start off with the calibration, so much to learn
While it seems overwhelming now it will all become second nature in a few months!
Yeah I was gonna say your e steps for each axis and the extruder are where I’d begin. Then I’d start looking at temperature calibration. There are a mind blowing number of temp tables and you gotta find what is gonna produce results that are accurate into the temp range you print in. So get a thermocouple and stick it in your heat block next … Or maybe you are high class and have a laser gun. Lol. Bed temp calibration is next. Finally it needs to know the dimensions of your print surface. After that, it should be able to move stuff the right amount and get to the right temperatures. That’s enough to print. Since you’re flashing firmware… I found it easiest to input these values directly into my compiled code as opposed to navigate the UI.
Ack, even more stuff to do. Essentially why I’ve been put off
Quick question. I’m using octoprint and cura. I’ve done some bed leveling and before a mesh bed leveling print through Marlin options, do I save the gcode of the bed leveling in Cura or octoprint? Sorry if it’s an obvious answer
Can’t help you there, my machine is simple. I just put a sdcard in and don’t do any of that fancy stuff. I didn’t want printing to be another hobby. Lol. I just wanted it to work the simplest way possible.
Is your Octoprint connected to your printer?
If so you can then setup Cura to send the gcode to Octoprint which then controls the print.
Yeah, all connected. Thanks. Just getting my head round it all, gcode will initiate when octoprint starts the cura embedded gcode. Nice.
@NotFastEnuf Same here, I just want to print stuff! Feeling like I’ve made a mistake
So I flashed the NFE Silverware to my SantaWhoop and using this Multiprotocol TX Module on my x-lite https://www.banggood.com/Multiprotocol-TX-Module-For-Frsky-X9D-X9D-Plus-X12S-Flysky-TH9X-Transmitter-p-1097688.html . Binding is working fine but the channel mapping is mess up: like my CHAN_5 (x-lite) --> CHAN_10 (in config.h); CHAN_6 (x-lite) --> CHAN_5 (config.h)… What should I do now?
Change the use_multi default to use_devo for transmitter type. Not all modules map the aux channels in the same order for bayang. Hooray for inconsistency in our gear!