Micro Motor Community

NotFastEnuf "Boss Series" Brushed Frames - 3D Printable (v2 stl files post #368)


0% infill… That is interesting :slight_smile:
Thank you for sharing your setup.
What about bed? Do you use glass ?
0.2 line width ?


Yes strength to weight ratio is better for a hollow arm than a solid one using the same amount of material in general. This is due to the way that stresses distribute across surfaces and hollow has more surface. In this print it’s not hollow by much but it did make a difference in the break tests I did when designing the frames and I printed and broke about a kg of them to try to find the upper limits of what 5 grams of plastic could do.

I do use glass now with hair spray and print exclusively in nylonX, but started off on buildtak using a light treatment of acetone to melt it somewhat so that abs would stick. I use a .4mm nozzle.


3D printing material service announcement - I’ve been successfully printing in “high temperature” polycarbonate. (E.g. not a polycarbonate that has been doctored to print at lower temperature as I was before - this stuff was stonger and stiffer than other materials, but ultimately did break on really hard impacts).
I’ve been using Rigid.ink polycarbonate. This stuff is amazing… Stiff, rigid and seemingly unbreakable.
Some video evidence here:

Its not too bad difficult to print - at least smaller objects don’t need an enclosure… I’ve managed to print out up to a 3" frame including ducts with no warping.
The trick is to print at wide extrusion widths and high layer heights - I print at 298C as this is as hot as I can go - but I think it would be even better at 320C… I use Elmer’s purple glue stick for adhesion, both on glass and PEI.


Hi Travis,
Thank you for pro tips again :slight_smile:
I didnt realise you put such an effort into rnd dept :wink: kudos to you.
I was thinking about nylon however I’ve just entered 3d priting world and googled that nylon is even more demanding than ABS so I think I will practice with ABS first.


Thanx so much to NFE for those fantastic frames! Just finished my first 8.5 mm build.


Any advice on 3D printers? I’m looking to pick a cheap one up to do the odd print of parts, toys for the little ones and the odd quad frame. Is 150x150x150mm a good size for most prints? Do I need a hot bed equipped one? I was looking at the Tronxy X1 as it’s on flash sale. Has good reviews but needs tinkering which I don’t mind doing. TIA


My first printer was a Monoprice Mini which was limited to 120x120x120 which was ultimately limiting.
I’ve now got a Prusa MK3. Pricy but amazing.
Most cheaper ones will need tinkering.
I suspect you’ll end up wanting to print in more exotic materials - which means your will want a heated bed.

Make sure you get something that there is a big community using - will make getting advice, parts, mods a lot easier.

I think the latest community favorite for an entry level printer is the Ender 3 - but I don’t have one.

Lots of good advice here: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/9tdw98/purchase_advice_megathread_what_to_buy_who_to_buy/?utm_source=reddit-android


Thanks for the advice. You’re probably right about the size, the first thing I want to print is 200x130x130 :smiley: I was thinking about Ender 3, looks quite good. The Prusa MK3, the holy grail in terms of 3D printing. Cheers


I just grabbed a second one a little while back… Another one of these https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21864
… And in true NFE fashion have already flashed my own flavor of tweaked custom firmware. Killer deal for an assembled printer but not sure if it’s available across the pond. Heated bed is a must. The next step up in major functionality comes from a 24v system as opposed to a 12v. Alot of the super strong materials are just beyond the reach of what a 12v printer can do reliably temp wise.


Yeah - the select is also well regarded. Have you upgraded yours for higher temps? I did upgrade my Monoprice Mini with a second heatbed silicone heat pad and a cheap E3DV6 clone (total around $40) and managed to get it to print nylon and even polycarbonate…


Just ordered the Ender 3. Thanks guys, looking forward to printing some frames and motor mounts.


I’m thinking to build one with my jjrc h67 components (the Santa one, I think it’s similar to e011c). I found somewhere above that 7xl is recommend. What is the recommended motor and prop?
Can I use these below? Thanks.


@kevin Check out the first post, 7XL recommends 720 motors and 55mm props. Do not pick up those linked 716 motors as they’re really low KV and I think only run in one direction (guess how I know). They’re more suitable for small planes.

The props you need are bigger than the ones you linked. The ones linked are better on a Boss 6/7 build. You could find some Hubsan props, I think Afunta are recommended


Yooo anyone here in the uk able to print me a couple boss frames


I actually like the 7xl with 716 motors. It’s such a tough frame it’s basically a bullet proof setup. I don’t think I have ever been able to break a 716/boss 7xl combo.


@yets @NotFastEnuf Thanks for reply. It seems more sense to me to go with 716 motor and 45 mm props as they are same with my e011. I’ll try them on both 7mm & 7xl.
So will boldclash below will work?

I’m still trying to google around for good setup for beginer. I’m new and I will crash alot.


Those motors are perfect with some hm830 / usaq 46mm biblades ! Much better than h8 one . You can try afunta but its a bit overkill for 19000k afunta 55mm suit perfectly with 720 .


Here in action beside the camera / vtx everything was perfect


Thank you! I’ll try the boldclash and the 45 propellers in aliexpress here https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Red-Black-45mm-Propeller-Technical-Creative-Airplane-Propellers-for-0-8mm-Shaft-Coreless-Motor-610-612/32711531874.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.259.30453c0053dy1z Looks similar to Hm830.


Hi guys,

I uave tried to print out Boss 7mm XL with 0% infill on my Ender3. It was a test print done with PLA, 0.1mm layer high, other printing recommendations taken from NFE tips.
Print quality was excellent but however not sure what happened with top shell near motor section…

Any ideas?