NotFastEnuf "Boss Series" Brushed Frames - 3D Printable (v2 stl files post #368)


#827

Try:
float pidkp[PIDNUMBER] = { 20.5e-2 , 20.5e-2 , 7.5e-1 };
float pidki[PIDNUMBER] = { 12e-1 , 12e-1 , 12.0e-1 };
float pidkd[PIDNUMBER] = {8.5e-1 , 8.5e-1 , 7e-1 };

If that doesn’t fly smoothly, we can adjust filtering to try to compensate but that starts pointing back to some mechanical issue I think.


#828

Thanks, that has made a big improvement. Still some small oscillations and I’m realizing how fast it’s going to be when its flying well.

I’ve just dropped my transmitter rate down to 40% to try and help me control it. As I said I’m a total novice pilot. Just crashed and snapped the front props but the frame in PETG seems to be holding up well.

Might take it outside over the weekend to get a real feel for what its doing.

Are there any other tweaks I can try if a new set of props don’t totally sort it out?

Really appreciate your time on this.


#829

Maybe this would be a good time to do that diy tuning video. Lol

You have 3 difficult things to balance that are all interdependent.

Noice, latency, and pid gains. I will try to explain how to tune these tonight after the kids go to sleep. :slight_smile:


#830

Just got back from the park. It fly’s great. I’m sure it could be tweaked but I’m happy with it at the moment. Just waiting on some fpv goggles so that might tell a different story.

Thanks for your help.


#831

That’s great news!!!


#832

I don’t have a 3D printer, but just found out I can get things printed at my local library for free (in PLA). With that knowledge and the freebie Beecore Lite board I got in the mail recently, I built my first Boss - a 7x16 frame with the 46mm Nano QX props.

I quickly learned that it was a bit too much for my yard and took it out to a local school field today. Wow!!! That thing rips compared to my ducted Silverwhoops! It can pull a power loop without even cutting the throttle up top!

My BetaFPV motors are coming down super hot, though! Uncormfortable to touch to my lips (but not burn them) - significantly hotter that my ducted quads (which just feel hot to my lips). I read earlier in the thread both that the 46mm props are too much for 6mm but don’t make 7mm too hot, but also comments like “all my brushes motors come down way hot.” How hot is too hot? Is there anything I can do to keep the heat down (and make the motors last longer, I presume)?

Now, if only I can find the time to put together a vacuum forming box and make some canopies…


#833

@IKKI once said something years ago that has stuck in my head. Ironically it was directly related to getting into silverware for using the dm007 board with 2s on 1s brushed motors…
“Yes they get hot, but better one day like a lion than one thousand like sheep”
So yes, the motors get hot because they are high kv and big props. Back when the nano qx was a thing, 14000kv was an upgrade. Just cook and have fun!


#834

Thanks. I found them on aliexpress cheaper and they finally arrived.

Not had a chance to fully test them out yet but they seem fine. I just need find a good way of mounting my 716 motors in the QX90c frame

These 716 motors came as a set of 4 CCW (not 2+2 as listed)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4pcs-Coreless-Motor-DC-3-7V-50000RPM-7-x-16mm-Micro-Brush-Motor-with-4-Helicopter/32823645059.html

props only:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4pcs-lot-K539-Mini-45mm-CW-CCW-Red-Black-Helicopter-Propellers-DIY-Plastic-Model-RC-Airplane/32642762298.html


#835

Hello! I am being dumb here, but which version of Boss do I need to be able to use BetaFPV F3? This would be a fresh build, purely for outdoors, would you recommend 7 or 8? I have access to 260mah normal and hv and some 450mah normals. Thanks in advance!


#836

You need the indy version. You’ll also need to rotate your fc physically 180 degrees so it’s plopped in backwards to make room for the USB. In the configurator, your rotate 180 degrees as well and use resource on cli to swap motor pins to match the nearest corner too. If you need help when you get to that step just let us know.

For motor selection, I say build both. 716 is awesome with hm830 props and whoop batteries. 820 is great with big batteries and 65mm props. My favorite is 816 with whoop batteries and 65mm props… but it’s so light it’s a little floaty on the big props. 820 is gonna be a little faster but not by much, 7mm is sick agile. If you go 7, I highly recommend the 7xl frame as its just bulletproof. The smaller 7mm frames are only like 2g of plastic so ultimate ultralight at the cost of a little durability. I like to push limits, so I roll on 7xl most often for 7mm.


#837

Thanks NFE! I seem to be going through this “something always fails” period with the bigger drones, so 816 looks like the key to happiness. And Boss Whoop frame :slight_smile:


#838

You also may need to melt a SMALL divot for the bind button to fit as well. (Heat up small screw driver with torch, or maybe use a cheap soldering iron for this.) mark the spot where the bind button touches, and slpwly start melting away some plastic!


#839

Thanks SkyNectar, I have ordered couple of Boss 8 and Boss Whoop frames from a local 3D printing scorcerer. I have a 3D pen, so no worries with the bind button mod. Just need the motors and props to arrive :heart_eyes:


#840

Had anyone here successfully printed a Boss in Polycarbonate?

My initial prints were a failure. While super stiff they turned out to be very weak and brittle.

I left them be and went back to nylon. However after reading of others’ successes with it I thought I’d try again - maybe it was bad printer settings.

I think I’m getting there now. Upping my print temperature and ensuring overlapping within the layers I think I’m getting far stronger prints. So much so I’m unable to break a boss arm by hand - which was easy on my original settings. I’ll have to see how this translates to performance once built up…


#841

Picking up a 3D printer, what material are you guys using for your Boss frames?


#842

ABS mostly, some are using nylon/CF blends.


#843

PLA and PETG probably won’t last too many crashes.
I’ve not been keen personally to print ABS - don’t like the hassle/smell… But it’s a great material for bosses by all accounts - can be repaired with acetone when it breaks.

I’ve had a lot of success with Taulman 910 nylon. It’s not as stiff as ABS, but I’ve found out easy to print and I’ve literally not manage to break a frame made out of it…

I’m now testing building frames with PC-MAX. First attempts failed with weak frames, but that was due to bad print settings. I’ve now printed frames I can’t bend or break by hand without hurting myself… Will do some test flying soon…


#844

I’m back, and I have a little question! Has anyone printed a frame in HIPS? It seems like it would be a nice light material option.


#845

I’ve been wondering about this also.


#846

Don’t know if this is representative, but if so doesn’t look great.

I guarantee a similar thickness of PC-MAX would be unbreakable by hand - I doubt it would even bend.

Nylon would bend but not break.