NotFastEnuf "Boss Series" Brushed Frames - 3D Printable (v2 stl files post #368)


#61

I’ll double check that file … 6mm tiny f3 - is that correct? Thanks

If it’s not my stl then it’s something in your slicer.


#62

I’m slicing with cura 2.7 and it’s coming out like the picture in post 2 (no gap). Something went wrong with your print or slicer. That cross member is structural.


#63

I’ll have another go at printing it, when I fix my printer…

I’m using Cura 14.07, and it looks complete in Cura?


#64

That’s a devistating loss of both functionality and life. Very unfortunate indeed!

Update on the whoop progress: I was able to break a duct today. Still not satisfied with the design for printing in abs. I don’t want to concede defeat to the sub 3g durable home made whoop frame. So back to the drawing board. Lol


#65

Another whoop frame update - commentary on printing with abs and a history of changes to compensate: So I’ve been printing whoop ducts at a thickness of .8 (2 walls). A 2 wall structure is inherently weak and it’s helped to discover where all the failure points are. First was layer delaminations at the transition between a straight vertical portion on the bottom and the rolled out lip on top (the shape of a manufactured frame). This was improved by making the entire duct one smooth beveled out lip from bottom to top. But layer delaminations were still the first failure point because of the changing diameter of the duct over its height producing lateral stresses. Height of the duct was then limited to 5mm which didn’t remove the all the lateral stresses but got it in range to totally stop delaminations. Then ducts were now lasting longer but fatiguing and breaking off at the root connection point to the subframe in a vertical failure. So I added inductrix pro style braces more outward and this also significantly helped… but isnt enough to eliminate the problem. Standard abuse (well for me anyway) still leads to an early failure but was actually quite impressive for 2.5g of material even if not up to expectation. The traditional 3 braced motor mounts which limit flex would solve the problem but the weak layer adhesion of abs makes this option impossible. So there are only 2 solutions at this point - move to a heavier 3 wall duct - or change printing material. I printed a 3 wall (1.2 mm thickness) ducted frame last night and while still flexible - no amount of reasonable abuse(manually inflicted) produces any sign of fatigue. I’m afraid best case scenario at this point is between 3 and 3.5g for abs. Not entirely a deal breaker as it seems the reduced duct vertical height has dramatically reduced drag and resulted in a huge increase in maneuverability and speed. A nice unintended discovery. In the end - the best possible frame will not be made of abs… but specific designs considering the raw material properties will need to be created to get the best frame design for each different filament. Progress…


#66

NFE, regardless of future developments, I’d be very grateful if you could share the STL’s for both the 2 layer and 3 layer designs you have so far, it doesn’t bother me if I break it or if it’s a gram heavier than your target, I got this one together this evening, and realised it needs to be outdoors, it seems a lot quicker and more responsive than the whoops I’m use to indoors, and could probably benefit from making a brace perhaps from the first 4 or 5 layers of the original print? But, I like it, looking forward to getting it outdoors for a rip around. I’m thinking the 300mAh 45C Nanotech’s which I have a couple, might be the ideal battery.


#67

Yeah the boss 6 is a mostly outdoor craft for anyone who isn’t a Jedi. Beautiful build. I am curious on the mods to the design that you find necessary for petg. One print setting I need to add to my suggested settings is the fill all gaps between walls setting. I think by default it’s on for most slicers but it is crucial. Hopefully today I’ll get a little screen time and I’ll at least get a few beta versions up on the whoop frame for you. Thanks very much for participating! !!


#68

mostly outdoor craft for anyone who isn’t a Jedi

Challenge accepted :metal:


#69

Oh yeah!!! I can’t wait to see that!! Also, just got an email back from taulman - alloy 910 nylon has a density of 1.31. That’s about 25% heavier than abs. Doesn’t seem like much but it adds up fast. That puts my lightest possible current design at just over 3 grams with the inductrix pro style braces and slightly under without. No idea if the design is even viable for 910 or if i could cut back even further until I try some. :smile:

Update on stl’s for abs: I’m printing an HD version now that is a little heavy at 3.75g bit if it turns out as expected - it should be pretty much bulletproof. After that I will cut this revision down to get it closer to 3.25g for a “lite” version that will survive more than 2 days. I think that’s as good as its gonna get on abs. STLs should be up tonight.

@Theon - you need a INDY style mount pattern?
Also curious which props those are.


#70

Crash test update on the heavy 3.75 gram 3 wall ducts print. I decided the quickest way was to test was a game of chicken with a spinning ceiling fan for 5 packs worth of flight time. Ducts are rock solid. No issues at all there. But this heavier frame has stiffer subframe arms and the mounts turn out to be the weak point. I can see stress lines on one of them. So that needs to be changed up a tiny bit. Best solution may be arms little lighter duty subframe to allow more flex and a bit beefier motor mount. It took me 1kg of filament to get the other frames where I was happy with them… hopefully I’ve learned something and close in on the whoop soon.

Interesting commentary on performance. I I could feel the extra weight - and vertical punch as well as recovery suffered compared to the lighter frame, but alot of the manuvers that usually feel dragged on a whoop which the first light build could do were just as smooth and possible with the heavier frame. Margin for error was smaller due to the weight bUT there is definitely something to the feel of reduced drag from shorter ducts. I like it.


#71

That one’s a Boss 7, running BetaFPV 716’s, I started to build up the Red Boss 6, but when I realized it would take these 55mm props I decided to go with a 7mm build. I havn’t changed any printer settings from the stock PLA other than increased the Ext Temp (230) and dropped the retract (30), I’m fairly new to the printer and still have a lot to learn about it. The finished print in PETG does require a lot of cleanup with a knife. I’m going to order some ABS today to compare. The props are from a cheap no name quad I got at the Post office on special, they’re nothing special, but came on 716’s, so have a 0.8 bore. The FC is an SPR F3 whoop, which I was using in a BetaFPV 65s frame I stripped to try out your Boss. I’ve been thinking to order a BetaFPV+OSD board, but keep prioritizing my budget elsewhere… I have a spare Tiny here, so either is good. The SPR has bigger FET’s so better suited to the high KV 716’s and 55mm props, The tiny looks to be a hassle to get to the USB, but I can live with that.


#72

What design software are you using? I was trained in AutoCAD (25 years ago now), But have forgotten most of it, as such I have been a bit disappointed with any of the free CAD stuff I’ve found, And really need to update my computer before I get serious about relearning. But that’s one of my next missions, I had very similar ideas to your Boss as to what I wanted to design so was very happy to see someone beat me too it, lol.


#73

55mm props with a .8 shaft are a goldmine! I’m using autodesk fusion 360 and I’m pretty happy with it. A hobbiest license is free for a year and can be renewed indefinitely. You’re right absolutely no thought was put into getting at the usb for the tiny f3. @chime13 is mounting it upside down and trimming out access. I’ve tuned enough brushed quads that I could guess at a 90% close tune and didnt have one here for refetence so I didn’t prioritize it. Maybe I’ll have to order a tiny f3 so I can adjust the files for access.

I’ll try to add a INDY pattern ASAP to the whoop. Also from what I hear, petg is a messy print but it’s much stronger than abs for layer adhesion. I’d say skip abs and go straight to nylon…


#74

I was concerned my printer was not yet up to the challenge of Nylon, and, live in a Very Humid environment with an ‘outdoor’ workshop, as such I have been putting off Nylon and why I chose to work with PETG. I have 3 1/2 rolls of PETG here, so can live with a bit of clean up and added weight for now. But I wanted some ABS (glow in the dark and colour change) for other projects, so will order and play around with anyway.


#75

Same here. Humid and working in the garage. I’m gonna have to build a dry box.


#76

I posted stl’s for the whoops in both E011 and INDY mount patterns up in the 6mm section on top. I’m printing one now myself but I’m pretty sure this is it. Maybe (just maybe) I took out too much material from the subframe - but I really think this will do.
AND…
…wait for it…
I HIT 3 GRAMS FLAT!! (can you tell I’m excited???)

Its like trying to pay bills when you’re poor. Need some more over here … gotta take it from over there. Anyway I’m happy enough with 3 grams. Ducts are 3 wall. Motor mounts are beefed up. Inductrix Pro style cross braces are in. I’ll add 7mm whoop later too.


#77

Cheers NFE, good work, I’m off to town to get a new fuse for my printer, and hopefully tonight will print a couple of your 6mm Whoops in PETG. I got a quick fly this morn with the 7mm Boss, when it dropped out of the sky and now won’t connect, It’s already been a salvage operation as I had to remove the usb after a bug got stuck under it and shorted the pins, so I was hoping not to have to reboot it as I’m working off a spare Uart and the USB pads are a bugger to solder to without bridges.


#78

When can i get one with 7mm mounts


#79

Soon Mike! I’m gonna need alot of help testing the whoop frames. It’s really hard to find a balance between durability and weight.

As far as 6mm goes… I have three more versions in addition to what I already posted if we run into problems. One more that’s the same as the 3 gram frame except it has even stronger ducts. It comes in at 3.3 grams. Two that are the same as the 3 gram version but have a stronger subframe - one with the same narrow subframe but it’s taller, and the other the same height but wider. These mods add about .2 to .3 grams. And then a combination of both stronger subframe and stronger ducts that comes in at 3.5 to 3.6g. I’m just not sure what we will need to beef up next. Anyone who is printing the whoop frame - please post feedback when you kill it. Lol. Maybe staying at 3g is more important than ultimate durability. It’s up to you guys really. I suppose if you have a printer - lighter is better within reason cause you can always make more so that’s why I started with what I think is the most minimal reasonable strength version. Anybody that has some taulman 910 alloy nylon and wants to offer up some feedback would be met with open arms!


#80

This thread makes me wanna buy a 3D printer.
Another rabbit hole :see_no_evil:.