Micro Motor Community

NotFastEnuf "Boss Series" Brushed Frames - 3D Printable (v2 stl files post #368)


I have found that the Syma X5SW 816 motors from Ali get hot after a few mins hovering. I have a b-03 silverware board, QX90C frame and 55mm hubsan-style props (I had to balance) at 24g. The stock B-03 is equal in weight with a camera on it and will run through 3 batteries and not be as hot, both quads use the same 9g 300mah battery

All I can think is that there is more oscillation from the larger props or that the motors being designed for a geared quad are too high KV and are overloaded.


Thanks - can’t wait to see how hot 720s get with 65mm props :slight_smile:
I’ve a lot of 720s so happy to burn them out in the name of science :wink:
No rush!


Sorry it took so long for me to get back to you. I don’t think the hot motor temps are PID related for brushed, but more based off KV/prop size.

Brushed motors do get hot and especially with higher KVs; the more electricity goes in to the motor causing more heat…

I like to pair LOW KV motors with larger props, and HIGH KV motors with smaller props… In theory, the LOW KV motors have more torque to spin heavier/larger props, while the high KV motors don’t have as much torque, but they have more RPM so they work better with smaller props. The trick is to finding the right balance between KV and prop size. (too bad there are only so many props sizes out there for us to use though, huh? lololol)

But none the less, a brushed motor will get hot due to its very nature. (Very hot because electricity is cycling into them.)

If your motor temps are too hot now, try putting some smaller props on those motors. chances are it WILL reduce the heat inside the motor as well as increase the amount of flights you can squeeze out of those motors, but your fingers may not recognize them as any cooler. The heat will radiate off the brushed can and your finger and brain will probably still think its too hot lol (speaking from experience lol)

as for my PIDs go though I will be happy to share

set p_pitch = 75
set i_pitch = 50
set d_pitch = 105
set p_roll = 75
set i_roll = 50
set d_roll = 105
set p_yaw = 75
set i_yaw = 50
set d_yaw = 40
set p_alt = 50

This is for a 7x20mm motor at 19500kv using 55mm afunta props.

also for stick feel, i use NFEs suggested settings of setpoint transition 30, setpoint weight 75

set setpoint_relax_ratio = 30
set dterm_setpoint_weight = 75


now that sounds epic. Please report your findings! :smiley:


Anyone come up with a good battery holding solution? Other than just using a loom band round the screws of course.


Three loom bands, two from side to side, one front to back.
It works decently.


@CRayTech has designed a printed battery holder. Maybe he will be kind enough to share the file?


Thanks, if @CRayTech could that would be awsome. otherwise i might have to make the first time plunge into solidworks, which ive been putting off.


Yeah - I used his STL and have since modified it for my batteries.
What’s the dimension of your batteries?


Ahhh - actually it’s @Theon battery holder I’ve used:
NotFastEnuf “Boss Series” Brushed Frames - 3D Printable (v2 stl files post #368)
If I didn’t thank you before - thanks!
Printed in TPU it’s great for holding a variety of batteries. I’ve edited for my own batteries and made it slightly thinner to save weight and make it more stretchy to hold my batteries tighter.


6mm naked whoop.zip (347.7 KB)
A frame I designed based on Travis’s Boss.


Heres a new idea I came across while watching youtube. Heat treating PLA. As in print, bake in over, and achieve a stronger structure. Thomas Sanladerer was able to get a 40% strength increase. I wonder if this is a better practice than printing in expensive CF filament?


Try it! :grin:

FYI - I’ve not had a single breakage of any of my Taulman 910 frames, brushed or brushless.
And I’ve crashed plenty, breaking motors, camera and lots and lots of props!


Hey! Just wondering, would a betafpv silverware fc be better than a rectangular bf fc? same price. Also, If i were to get the silverware one, would the irx4 module for my taranis provide adequite range, or would attaching a sbus receiver have substantially longer range?


Well silverware is a process… you may not want to sign up for all that. Personally its all I will use on brushed. I can’t speak to range… I fly a devo. I have had some awfully close in signal drops on the r-sxr… but I was only running one antenna. So … not much helpful advice. Sorry. I would go silverware over a rectangle board though. At least for the experience of it.


Welcome to the party, PJC!

SO much fun…going to do a video soon, but running Butterflight on it with Mockingbird for Angle, still working on PID’s but so far…LOVING IT!


Yes, you’ll need to rotate the board 180 degrees so the usb is in the front. Careful to reassign motor locations with resource too.


With the E011, Bangyang mode I get about 3/4 of football field - in DSMX mode I get exactly the same response as my DX6i TX.

I highly recommend the module iRX4+


Hey! I don’t have a 3d printer, so I am gonna pay to have a 3d service do it (shapeways). They do not have any options for standard plastic, only “professional plastic” and “versatile plastic.” The price point difference for the boss frame is around $4, with the "professional plastic being more expensive. I am going to get multiple frames, so should I pay the extra for the professional plastic? or would the versatile plastic b good enough?! These are the descriptions on shapeways on the post below. Please help! Ive heard the professional plastic just uses a new HP printer… Does that matter much?


Here is the description for versatile plastic