I’m using an all metal throat in my E3D clone - and not had a single issue, even with carbon fiber filaments. I’m sure I’ll regret saying this…
@NotFastEnuf I’ve never really looked into printers even though they’ve come down so much in price.
I wouldn’t even know where to start with a good brand?
Prusa Mk3 if you want to spend that much (it is plug’n’play). If not then TEVO Tornado it has larger build space and much cheaper. (IMO)
I started with a Monoprice Mini. Its a good starting printer I think to learn with. Especially the work you need to do to mod it gets you up to speed pretty quick, while still being able to print from day 1.
However knowing what I know now though I’d probably start with a Creality CR-10 or CR-10s (they have a very strong following), or if money was less of an issue Prusa MK3 - now I know I really like this hobby this is what I’m considering next.
Tevo Tornado is very similar to CR-10 I think, but I’ve read some safety concerns about its mains powered heated bed - maybe they are no more than theoretical though…
Warning - if you think drones are a black hole for your available time - 3d printing is even worse Great hobby though!
I have to print at 101.5% to have inner dimensions turn out correct, and then I take a hobby knife to the inside of the motor mount to carve out the bottom two layers a bit. Then the motors go in nicely.
Things tend to shrink slightly during and after printing, based on printer, print speed, filament, temperature, air temperature, phase of the Moon, what you had for dinner last night, when the printer last burnt you, how more water the filament has absorbed from the air, etc.
Some hobby knife work on the high spots will probably work faster than sandpaper, and/or have them reprint scaled up a bit.
I used scissors to make the motors fit and it took me an hour to trim them up. Maybe next time I’ll use a hobby knife to make it up in less than 5 minutes if I can find one in the local hardware.
You can wipe the insides of the motor holes with acetone and they slide right in, sometimes it is best to push the motor in upside down initially to make the fit.
Also, swabbing a little acetone on print material layers that are separating will sometimes fuse them back together.
Might be specific to my filament and the amount of shrink, but the acetone method tends to split the motor mount for me.
Only if it is printed in ABS.
Acetone only for ABS?
Thanks, didn’t know!
Is there any equivalent for nylon?
Something you can do with Nylon is soak it in warm water - it will get soft quite quick.
When I have done this it did take some time to dry out - and I think it was important that I put some weight on it to hold it in place while it was drying so it did not deform. I put it on a warm air vent to speed it up.
What temp water? Isn’t nylon’s glass trans temp ~220-230?
Just hot water out of your tap. I think it’s absorbing some moisture and becoming softer - especially on the thin parts.
Ah, that makes much more sense. Cool idea! I’ll try it when I get home!
You know your stuff.
3D printing as an Obsession for 3 years along with a drafting certificate landed me a job programming and operating a 3K CNC Fiber laser. I can’t say it better than the tech who was last on site, before I was hired “I thought lasers were only in star wars.” I am programming the behemoth now and still living in an apartment that is almost smaller than its foot print, but its a job #humblebrag. That guy fixing Trogdor (the ~2 ton machine I worship professionally) was brilliant and had several degrees which is why he was fixing it and I was operating it. Still, In the end I can’t say that 3D printing is a wasted effort. Talk to me in three years about flying drones and we will see what I have managed with my current obsession.
If you have need to make motors fit nylon and use the water method:
Heat a gas oven to ~100-200°F and leave the quad to bake for several hours. I don’t conformal coat my brushed quads, cause weight and ignorance, after a splash it is a rice sauna in the oven for 5 hours. I have drenched a tinyf3 fc in a coffee cup landing and a fountain crash, it still fly’s fine after the gas oven treatment overnight. mmmmhmmm, that poor FC; I am the reason I cannot have nice things.
Conveniently all the components are heat rated to this. You Should have a dry frame in a day at most.
Alternatively you can make a temporary nylon drying box with a 40-60watt light bulb in an atmospherically controlled container. Detail instructions: http://taulman3d.com/drying-materials.html
E.g. get a 5 gallon bucket with a lid and a can light ($10 @ horror fright). drill some holes in the bucket, put the light and quad in, seal it up and give it ~6-12 hours for a dry quad.
I cannot suggest using an electric oven to dry anything, filament or otherwise, as the temperature variation of electric ovens is much greater than a gas oven.
I have the bucket idea made, and it works like a dream! No issues whatsoever, and I haven’t dried my filament yet!
Just got a new 7xl frame set up. 0720-14 motors… they blow my mind.
And old pids from previous quads arent even close. Very unstable in high speed turns. It almost spins a full 360. Just all sorts of “loose” compared to my last setup that I forgot to save.
Anyone have some betaflight pids they are willing to share? Also how you run your filters? I recently turned all my filters back on. Previous setup I had them all off. Interested to test more later this week after the snow stops falling and test filters/pids
P 115 to 130
D 125 to 140
P 125 I 75
All filters at defaults. Turn rc interpolation off.
Setpoint weight high if you like it snappy, lower if you like smoothing, and start transition at 1 then drop it gradually to reduce bounce back of you have any. (No lower than .3)