NotFastEnuf "Boss Series" Brushed Frames - 3D Printable (v2 stl files post #368)


Here is my latest offering:

NFE/Boss V1 Frame
Crazepony 19k 0615
Eachine H8 Props
Boldclash F-02
AUW 23.6g
180mah NanoForce and Venom Lipo (16.3 KB)

Flies amazing! Had some frame-related resonance at 3/4 throttle - was able to fix it by sliding the motors up on the mounts. My tune is based off @NotFastEnuf’s fork. I updated the files to include Autobind and Telemetry, which work perfectly. I also took out all the auto-leveling. I adjusted the rates to my feel but I left NFE’s pids alone. Couldn’t be happier except that I’m running out of frames…this one is UV glued already - hahaha


Nice! Which canopy is that?


It’s one of 2 known designs by @NotFastEnuf. They’re available on eBay - They’re unbreakable! There’s a whole thread on this site dedicated to NFE’s Tiny Whoop Canopies.

Thank you!


Are 260mah batts the way to go with Boss 816?


I use Tattu 380mah with my 720 boss. They are great batteries.


Yeah 260 to 380. I use 260. Keep it light!


Well I better try my 260s tomorrow then :grin:


I’ve got 300mah 35-70 nano techs and they seem to be ok, they come down warm so thinking of switching over to the 260mah.

Had a back to back flight with the 0705 Boss and the 816 is great. Same weight but the 816 feels more rapid. I can’t get over how locked in the tune is!


Getting a Boss 8.5 Printed on a industrial 3d printer this weekend. It is supposedly a semi flexible material and degrades with continual UV exposure, which is good right? >.< It’s free, they have to purge filament from the system. Pretty sure it is a J750:

In the end, just a fun experiment with the sister company. If it is epic(only doubting durability really), a perfect night flying frame?

bonus edit They are purging black filament, should be sexy at least.


@yets … and you wanted to focus on brushless. Lol. I told you the 816 was the BIG boss. Hehe.

I still fly my boss 8 (816) everyday. A boss 7 is pretty close too but the 8 flies cleaner.


My 8.5 boss was borked for a few days due to corruption? Not sure but things were pretty wonky in betaflight when I got it back to the desktop, flashing to BF3.3 seems to have restored it. Hoping to be back in the air with it tomorrow. I am amazed at how great it performs. Especially since in my case it is the stock power train from the QX70. I love the boss!


Just finished reading through the majority of the posts! Wish I had myself a 3D printer to try one of these frames.
Is there anyway if getting hold of a few in the UK?


Printers are so cheap now you may want to consider jumping in. Lol. But I’m sure there are local print shops or hobbiests around. You just gotta dig!

I just put together my first betaflight boss for a friend on some Kados 716’s on tge 7xl frame. I should be tuning this week and I’ll keep you guys posted on the pids I come up with!


I’ll happily send you one or two - no promises on timing though. Drop my a PM with your address and what you are after and I may get round to sending something at some point :grin:


Just thought to share my PSA abt printing mylon. Always use a steel shaft/throat (or all metal extruder) when printing!

Sigh… that’s the ptfe liner that literally burned up. sigh again…And it’s happened three times. I thought I was safe, but I guess not! :sweat:


Yeah that’s quite a danger. Very poisonous gas released to melt ptfe. I am actually intentionally running ptfe liners because nylonX is so abrasive and has quite alot of friction. I do inspect and replace my ptfe tube quite often and have dialed in temp to be just in the safe zone but still able to print. So far I have not melted one yet.


I can’t install the motors.

I’ve got my first 3d printed frame, which is the boss 6 from a local 3d printing shop. My e011 and bwhoop b03 fc fits perfectly, but my 6mm motor is impossible to install through the motor holders. The printing shop advised me to use a sand paper until the motors fit. I sandpapered one of the motor holders and it seemed to work but it costs me alot of time. Is this normal in 3d printed frames?


It depends on the filament and the printer.
Maybe they haven’t dialed it in.


The issue with 3d printing is that nothing is normal Printer to Printer. While @NotFastEnuf has done some incredible modeling work, he will have also made considerations in the design to compensate for the shortcomings of the machine he is working with.

My 3d printer is a CTC Bizer Frankenstein, I cannot believe what its capable of when its dialed in. I get some epic prints. However when I design something in 3d there are a bunch of factors that effect dimensions which are directly related to the limitations of the machine style (Replicator), the nozzle I have installed(.4mm), and the filament that will be used(how steep a slope you can reliably deposite).

IRL, I work with lasers cutting metal. In CNC tools that remove material there is a term ‘kerf’ which is width of the material removed with one pass of the tool from the work piece. You can measure the kerf, of a blade through wood, or a 3kw fiber laser through 3/4" mild steel, and on their respective controllers adjust the “kerf offset” to ensure you are creating a properly dimensioned and Toleranced part. In 3d Printing, which is usually deposition, there is no kerf. Which results in the need to design to the tolerances of your printer.

My bet is that whatever machine the local shop is running is nothing like a home brew 3d printer(or off the shelf FDM).

I recently Had some Experimental pro prints done from our sister company Radical Parts(Thanks Y’all). They turned out beautifully, but the material composition leaves the frame more brittle than a PLA print. What kind of material did the local shop set you up with? Screw holes in FDM 3D prints are not really toleranced. You might ask if the shop is willing to work with you and get you a 100.5% sized print(or calculate difference of the hole and see how much
it is off, they may have a tolerance gurantee)? Slightly larger Might make it less of a hassle to get motors mounted and your mount hole spacing will not be affected much.

Pro prints of the boss 8.5 qx70 V1:

Attempted flexing the frame across the motor axis and the material popped, a piece shattered off of a “duct fin,” I don’t know what to call that as a feature.

They sure are smooth though, and heavy. Compared to nylon at 4.4grams, these fattys weigh 7g even

The Printer that produced these is best described as a big 4 jet ink printer. It uses wiper to even each layer, and a UV Bulb to solidify each layer. Subesquently, infill is always 100%.


This happens to me sometimes. Easy fix I find is one blade of some sharp scissors into the hole and turn gently removing some material. Repeat from the other side. It takes seconds.