Well if you can find some that’s still acetone … yes. Otherwise hardware store
Womp, Looks like I may have missed the cheap motors train. cannot seem to find a 20 pack for less than $40.
My first Tinkercad design - Boss 7mm prop guards. (inspired by, but about 1/3 of the weight of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1320400)
Useful for flying indoors. Probably not to bad for outdoors either - only 0.2g each in nylon (not sure this will work in anything other than nylon as would be very fragile).
Boss 7mm prop guard extra-lite.zip (36.4 KB)
ive lost weight since i started fpv
Did you try enabling Dynamic Gap Fill in simplify3d? I think it is supposed to fix exactly this issue.
I tried priting in vase mode before and results were quite good indeed. Please post your modded stl. Also what slicer are you using?
I did, unfortunately dynamic fill behavior settings cause the infill gapping and affect the slicing of the boss logo on the model to boot.
@NotFastEnuf, I’m starting to print in nylon, but can’t seem to get it to stick well. I’ve tried painters tape w/ gluestick, aluminum w/ hairspray, and aluminum w/ gluestick. The results from the latter worked best, but still warped. I’m thinking of getting some super 77, got way too much adhesion w/ PLA. Any suggestions?
I use a type 2 pva glue on glass. Type 2 pva differs from regular pva in that it has a much higher polymer content giving the nylon more to fuse into. Titebond 2 is the specific product. I water it down about 50/50 then paint a cross hatch on a heated bed. Takes about 10 or 20 light coats with dry time in between each cross hatch. I’ve also had good luck printing onto paper glued to my bed.
I found that gluestick on glass worked really well at a bed temperature of about 50 degrees (currently can’t get my printer bed hotter).
Have you dried your nylon really (really) well?
I hadn’t and was advised to here - it makes the world of difference with a whole bunch of issues.
I dried it for 3 hours at 80 degrees C in my oven. Others do it longer. You could find it gets “wet” again as quickly as 24 hours in damp climates…
Thanks guys! I have dried my nylon, currently drying again, lol. I’ll try the titebond mixture later!
Which nylon are you using?
Have you got a glass bed to try? You can use the glass from a cheap picture frame. I’m new to this 3D printer game, but the first mod I made was changing to a glass bed, and since have had no issues at all with adhesion when using a liberal coating of gluestick.
Note - not all gluesticks are equal… The cheap one I tried (pack of 5 from the pound store) unspurisingly didn’t work…
Had anyone tried this place before - seems a great way to try new filaments before buying a whole roll…?Postage seems very reasonable too (especially here in the UK).
I’ve a few different filaments on the way to try…
I’m using HK nylon, thourougly dried. The prints turn out fine layer wise, but not bed adhesion. I’ll put a glass plate on the bed as soon as I get home from work. How did you mod yours? Thanks for the info
I attached mine with silicone heat sink pads. Though most people use some kind of crocodile clip. You can probably just print something too.
On my printer I also had to print a z-spacer.
I’m considering using some loca glue left over from cell phone repairs since I hate using clips on mine. I’m just not sure it will work out with the heat… since you use heat to remove a phone glass. I think the adhesion is still pretty good even at high temps … I’m just not sure pout any thermal expansion screwing with bed leveling.
Omg!.. It worked so well! Thanks so much! Adhesion for days, and no warping. I did a test benchy and then went straight to a sketchy all nighter print…but it worked!
Which method??? Do tell!!!
Whoops, forgot that part… Anyways, I used gluestick in a cross hatch pattern on 4mm glass plate, from a picture frame. I may keep using the glass plat, because I love the bottom finish! Thanks again! After these parts I need to print, I may get back into brushed with a boss…