Jarhead! I like it. The whole build is really clean looking man
Just melted filament in the process of baking it for the first time. Building a dehumidifier bucket today.
With desiccant pouches added it indicates that you can reduce filament to 10% humidity in ~3 hours. Faster than the oven anyways. On a time I can keep the filament print ready on the roll.
@Taylormadearmy Wowww. I wish i had one of those. I got to buy my self a 3d printer and learn how to use it. That thing is awesome.
You’re more than welcome to do whatever you want with this series my friend. I simply wanted to be a catalyst and spark something innovative about the way we build brushed models. Well innovative is a stretch … I admit … they fly well cause they’re light. But it is nice to have an accessible lineup for all the different motor sizes that meets this requirement and looks cool too! It truely is a winning formula across the board.
So … I only ask this of all you guys out there enjoying the boss … pay it forward - through that selfless act you receive my blessing to do whatever you want to with the project! Help and guide others who need the help and guidance to succeed in this hobby in any way you can. The help I received when first getting into micros is the reason why we have a boss series. I’m proud to be part of this community and proud of the excitement, innovation, and mutual support that’s taking place here. Keep up the good work guys and keep pushing forward!
Some useful data about 720 motors.
Looks like the BetaFPV 17,500kv motors plus Ladybird props should rip… though they do pull lots of current so good batteries are needed. What are others running? My preferred is the Tattu 380mah. They are back in stock in Amazon UK after not being available for ages…
Looking forward to trying it out on my XL later…
@Taylormadearmy, I run the betafpv 17500 with ladybirds. they rip, and eat smaller lipos.
Taulman Filament drying bucket:
Its a bucket with a light in it… Taulman warns that environments above 60% humidity will severely reduce the efficiency of the design. The native humidity in my basement apartment was 54% at the workstation when I pulled the monitor from the printers enclosure.
Working in a high humidity environment? Reducing the aiflow through the bucket will reduce the moisture load on the system. More desicant packets will increase efficency as well.
I tried a print after 5 hours in the bucket and it was behaving like it would after about ~3.5hrs oven drying from from native humidity. No warting or surface deformation, but filament still expands due to water content and beyond the capabilities of retraction compensation.
First print from the Filament dryer: (Simplify slicer settings coming soon)
Filament from the dryer produced a functional model with easily removed stringing.the filament was around 15-20% water content if I had to guess. A very solid but not ‘clear’ print. The crap photos make it hard to see, but side by side with oven dried nylon prints the water content artifacts are pretty clear. Specifically note the clarity difference in the nylon at the motor Bands. You can see the blue of the desk through the motor rings in two models in the left of the photo below. The Model on the right is from the filament dryer, due to micro bubbles from escaping water(steam) at the nozzle, it is almost opaque.
Today, After 16 hours with a 40watt bulb and about 8 open air ports top and bottom, the environment monitor reads 26% humidity.
Harbor freight can light
Lows Bucket (thinner than a homer bucket, might have some effect)
40w bulb (I might need a 60 watt)
Silica Gel packets
8mm smooth rod salvaged from a dead a dead printer frame
2" long spring clips to hold stuff in place
Thanks - great report.
Its about 35% humidity here.
I think my next task is to build a dry filament dispending box - e.g. www.youtube.com/watch?v=OY5n9q-wS7k
I’m OK occaisionally drying the filament in the oven - if I can keep it dry while printing then all will be good I think?
Some of this is common sense, some of it makes no sense at all from a exceptionally well reviewed piece of software. I still love simplify but no one is talking about its shortcomings in depth.
Simplify 3d has some serious limitations when it comes to infill. Distressingly I have really only come to understand this a year into the use of the platform.
Visible hole in the model from the slicer.
Model alignment plays a big roll in how the slicer behaves, this advice is not provided (or I have not located it from simplify) to mitigate the slicers shortcomings (Its a feature!). If the model is improperly aligned the Simplify slicer calculations will never create a completely solid print solution and in many cases will leave gaps in concentric arcs and layers infill. This results is a model with unexpected deflection.
Experimentation still required. At this time its appears that these slicer artifacts will manifest regardless of auto or manual width extrusion.
In models this small(6 layer wide bodys), simplify3d inserts a small gap between the 3 and 4 rings.
||| ||| instead of |||||
use 2 shell construction with 100%
Trying both 0°/90° and 45°/-45° infill results in similar issues. It was not until I rotated the model with 0°/90° that I was able to slice a solid model without missing extrusion and added gaps in bodies.
Here is my factory file so you can examine the settings in detail. I use the ctc bizer frame with a panucatt azteeg x3 and some mismatched gearing. Its a great little printer when it is not being thwarted by a slicer.
This problem is something I had developed modeling techniques to overcome. Boss 7mmXL QX70 v2.zip (8.6 MB)
Something like this might be what your after for your filament drier, and if you could vary the supply voltage you could set it to quick dry or maintain. https://www.banggood.com/12-PTC-300w-500w-Car-Portable-Adjustable-Heating-Heater-Fan-Defroster-Demister-p-1113831.html?currency=USD&utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=cpc_elc1&utm_content=felix&utm_ho=18+&utm_campaign=auto-dpt-vcp-value-nr18-mpa&cur_warehouse=CN
Rough, that doubles the cost of the design for the 5 gallon. As I am in A wetter climate I am going to grab a 60W bulb to give it a go.
You might have been pointing to @Taylormadearmy’ earlier post, I think that could be incorporated nicely into it.
An IR bulb will be more efficient as it’s not wasting energy in unneeded light.
Reptile heater mats are the way to go i think, as far as heating a drier, certainly much safer and designed to regulate temperature. They are also pretty cheap.
Gw008 props are out of stock almost everywhere, where they are in stock they are so over priced they are pointless.
ARGGGHHHHHHHHHH. Settling on some nano QX props, but I need the good stuff! In other words I am not used to outfitting 6mm motors outside of ducts.
Gw008’s are barely bigger/more powerful than a 2 blade whoop prop. Maybe only a few mm and grams of thrust more. They are the long forgotten option to trim to whoop size and use in place of the stock prop in a duct. If that’s what you’re going for cool … but h8 mini props (when not out of balance) are a more significant step up in performance and size - I consider them the low drag high rpm option. The hm830’s are more thrusty in low rpms and as such can’t spool up as high. That’s what i use but they probably kill motors (by running them hotter)faster than the h8mini. The bayang x9 props to me were tge pinnacle of performance but really hard to get a set that runs clean enough to throttle up at all. Also kill 6mm motors fast - but top speeds were noticably faster.
little late to the game, but better late than never!
I’d like to thank @Bobnova for getting me set up with some 3d printed 720 boss frames, and I’d like to thank @NotFastEnuf for hooking me up with some of his custom canopies, his patience with me botching his incredibly sick design and guidance.
But I am happy to say I now have the coolest looking micro on the block
NFE BOSS 720 frame
betafpv FC with dsmx and OSD
betafpv 17500kv motors (these SUCK as far as durability and quality goes, i do not recommend.)
afunta 55mm props
custom vacuum molded canopy molded by NFE himself!
I am naming it Sulley, after the one eyed monster from Monsters Inc. the movie
Thanks again NFE!
Had a few flights with the 7mm Boss, loving it so far. Not got any decent video yet. I have a half decent tune on one now, just need some good weather. Getting good with super glue, pretty much a broken arm has ended every session. Half because it gives me confidence in flight, to try some crazy stuff; had some epic wipe outs. I was just thinking though it will be good for my flying consistency, knowing the chance of breakage with any mistake is so high.
Also got a load of 8.5mm motors on the way, for the 8.5mm frame. Ordered those after my first fight with 7mm as I reckon that’ll be a sweet spot for me.
You should be fixing abs frame breaks with acetone. It will solvent weld … essentially just melt or fuse abs together good as new. Only takes one tiny drip then let sit for a few hours Thrilled you’re having fun with them!!!
Ah right, nail varnish remover?