NotFastEnuf "Boss Series" Brushed Frames - 3D Printable (v2 stl files post #368)


@NotFastEnuf @gezuntidt @Taylormadearmy While I have zero 3D printing experience and don’t have time to build a Boss right now, I am loving all your progress printing in Nylon. This is all just super cool and exciting! :sunglasses: :grin:


Going to GitHub the boss designs too? Would be terrible convenient for me at least :smiley:


It’s Taulman Bridge Nylon. I live in the Pacific northwest in a basement(native humidity is ~50% year round according to reader on my enclosure). It is wet here >.< To get the Bridge Nylon really dry I have found it takes 6-8 hours in the oven(best results over 12).

The only problems I have encountered with water and nylon are during printing, where the expanding water (steam) fills the model with micro bubbles (or just huge holes if it is really “wet”) during deposition.


Boss 6mm QX70 V1 (Contribution Version 1)

30mm hole space for the Eachine qx70 FC.

@NotFastEnuf the symmetry in your models is evident in the mesh. Very easy to work with as remixes go.

Boss 6mm qx70 (454.0 KB)


The protrustions from the original screw mounts would be exceedingly time consuming to remove from an imported stl body with my current knowledge/rig(something is bogging it down, ~70,000 triangles). I will revisit these and other issues in subsequent revisions/as time allows.


Maiden of the BOSS 8.5 QX70 V1 with horrible pids locked in on ridiculous rates. It is fast and durable though.


here is a short video of some hot laps comparing the speed of a whoop and a few Boss’s:

Whoop has stock e011 motors and a 3.8g mullet mod cam w/ clover ant.
Boss 7 has MMW motors and 2.75g aio w/ mono ant. at a weak angle
Boss 7XL has boldclash 19,000kv and 3g aio w/ dipole
Boss 8 has syma x5sw motors and 4.6g Tx02 w/ clover ant.
all with e011 FCs and 150mah 45c eachine (Boss8 used 500mah inc. w/ x5sw)


Smooth as silk @Quad_Jake! How would you compare the 7xl vs the 8 in feel?


Been playing - in the middle is a Carbonyte/Bridge Nylon hybrid.

I did it by changing filament at 1.2mm. It needs a bit more work as I need different flows for the 2 different filaments - but it seems like it will give a good combination of flexibility and robustness.


Well keep in mind my 7XL has 716 motors, so its very agile, like a humming bird; also I’m the most comfortable with it(most stick time). The boss 8 I build up required more C than the 260 30C that comes with the e011(brown out at w.o.t.). Turnigy 300mah 45c was meh, no brown out. The 500mah that came with my syma x5sw over a year ago (16.5g) runs for 4minutes pushing wide open throttle around half the time in the air, so it must be a little on the large side. The boss 8 feels alot like my Torrent but with a better tune, more stable but more momentum,way easier to peg the throttle on straights probably because battery and or cam angle.


I’m going on record saying @Taylormadearmy is an evil genius mad scientist!! What a progressive idea to change material midway through the print! Now to sit back and watch where that tidbit of inspiration pushes you guys…


@Taylormadearmy Brilliant! Both that you printed a carbonyte/nylon hybrid frame, and that you pictured it alongside carbonyte and nylon frames to show the “evolution.” :smile:

Agreed, @NotFastEnuf!

On a related note, since you are the resident engineer, do you have any thoughts on putting the carbon layer at the bottom versus at the top of the frame? I am wondering whether it might be worth trying a print with the carbon on top.

I don’t really understand material properties. But my intuition is that carbon would work well under compression, which would make it well suited to the top layer. Of course, nylon presumably works better under compression than tension, so keeping it on the bottom does make sense.

@Taylormadearmy The third option to try would be to print a carbon layer at the top and bottom, so as to sandwich a thicker nylon layer in between. This would be akin to a CF-foam-CF panel or the CF-birch laminate that @woodsturning (at Picnic Quads) has been using.


This!! The sandwich is king!


Oh yeah!!! Quad🥪


I’m actually thinking the right sandwich would be to have the nylon as the bread…

Its tougher than the carbon/nylon so you’d be less likely to get a break, you’d also get the bonus of “soft mounting” the FC and the meat of the carbon/nlyon would give the frame some rigidity…

I’ll try to give it a go at some point - need to stop printing soon and start flying instead!!

What printers do people have here? I’ve a monoprice Mini modded to take a an E3D V6 hotend.


I’m on a maker select v2 with microswiss nozzle. Good idea on flying instead of printing … let’s not forget why we are printing!!!

Nylon as the bread would be the most flexible. Nylon/carbon as the bread would be much stiffer since it yields much less and the highest compressive and stretching forces will be on the skins.


I crash. A lot. Hence why I’m thinking about longevity… :grin:


Thinking of longevity, you could upgrade and upgrade it a thermistor that allows for 300+C. That would allow you to print in polycarbonate. Quick question, @NotFastEnuf ,you mentioned that you were in materials science. Is that your occupation/degree? I’m interested in that as well as mech engineering


New nozzle, properly dried filaments (would have thought that new vacuum packed filament was dry - very wrong!), And have sorted out the correct flows.

No stringing - time to fly! Well maybe tomorrow.
Sandwich builds will come - though may have to wait for the weekend…

@NotFastEnuf - how can we get your canopies in the UK? Any recommended 3D prints while I wait?


Honestly the easiest way to get my canopies is to make one. Print the mold and vacuum form one. It’s super fun and easy! Lots of fun accessories to print for vacuum forming.

Also tell me more about how you switch filaments… do you pause the print? Do you just cut filament and feed it in on the fly??? Tell your secrets! I’ll dual layer some frames too!


But there are only so many hours in the day… Sigh. My wife and kids will kill me… :star_struck:

Do you use Cura? I use a couple of post processing gcode scripts. One to “pause ot height” - currently 1.2mm works well.

Once paused I retract and then swap in the next filament, prime it and then resume.

There is another script I also use to adjust the flow for the second part of the build as I find my Nylon/carbon filament only needs 90% flow. (Tweak at z).