NotFastEnuf "Boss Series" Brushed Frames - 3D Printable (v2 stl files post #368)


#443

Now these seem interesting

pre flashed FC with silverware dual mode.


#444

Yeah its basically just a bwhoop or e011 board. You’ll still need to update the flash to get the best performance. But it’s a nice form factor. There are boss frames to fit either option.


#445

oh, is that it, just the same board pretty much but with it pre-flashed. I guess that would defeat the purpose of my st-link that just came in today.


#446

No, that stlink is your connection to the board … you’re gonna need that to tweak stuff on either board


#447

ah, gotcha. When you are tweaking stuff you’re leaving the pins soldering to the board, correct? I’m trying to figure out how they don’t interfere with the battery or if a vtx was placed under the fc, unless they’re cut shorter or desoldered after using.

Mb it depends on the pins. The pins I had to order looked pretty long on the website but haven’t come yet.


#448

I have pins that I just “probe” the empty holes with to flash. I’m a bit obsessive on watching my weight. Lol


#449

lol, nice. Hey, if it works, then… Not a bad idea actually.


#450

PLA test prints while I bake some Bridge Nylon.


The ABS I have is unprintable. The PLA test print is not flyable, due to a glass jaw. Life is tough sometimes, I should learn to buy quality filament on the regular.


#451

I’ve just started on my 3D printer journey… First few weeks were about breaking it, fixing it and printing out upgrades for it…

Now I’ve just about got it printing its time for drone parts!

I’ve printed out a a Boss E011 7mm in some PETG and Bridge Nylon.

I read above that others have found PETG too birttle when crashing? Any good destructive testing I can do without building and flying to see if I’ll have the same issue?

I can’t imaine anything breaking my Bridge Nylon - buts its a bit “floppy”. I wonder if there is any sense in making a Boss model with sligtly taller profile arms to counteract the floppyness of regular Nylon? The rest of the frame is fine as its stiffened by the PCB - could possibly save some material to counteract the added weight?

Have some Carbonyte on the way (gosh its expensive!!) - hope I can print it ok!


#452

What are your Slicer settings for printing. Also when printing ABS what is your build plate adhesion, bed temp and print speed?


#453

Yeah I think bridge would work well on whoop frames posted early in this thread. I too just got some nylon (trimmer line) and when life offers up an opportunity and I feel it’s sufficiently dehydrated frI’m sitting in the dry box … I’m gonna try that.

To crash test petg without building … I suggest taping some ballast to it and giving it a toss up in the air over your driveway. That was my approach and when I saw 5 failure points from the first impact - my hopes of petg being viable vanished. Funny material property to be so ductile when slowly loaded but shatter on impact loading. Lol. I will say that my petg was cheap and didn’t seem to corroborate stories of it printing with the ease of pla - so just cause I say it’s no good - I’m just one data point. Test on for yourself. I do eagerly await any reports on the boss whoop frames in bridge nylon. The failure point for those in abs was on the subframe at or near the motor mounts. I don’t think nylon would have the same issue.


#454

Super. Will give that a go and report back later.


#455

I’ll try printing a Boss Whoop when I’m home tonight in Bridge Nylon. Is there an E011 / 7mm version?


#456

Oh yes, there’s the boss-7 for 0716 and there’s the boss-7XL for 0720. Both should be in the second post of this thread. Scroll waaaaaaaaaaaay up.


#457

@Taylormadearmy is talking about a ducked boss 7 for whoop props(31mm) right?
I know @NotFastEnuf has made a 6mm boss whoop which is Dope! Just a little fragile, but after flying a legit Boss I’m craving more speed indoors too! It’s still cold out!


#458

Yup - its a 7mm Boss Whoop I’m after if it exists - if not I’ll try the 6mm.

Just did some destructive testing on the frames I’ve printed.

I mocked up a full build weighing around 30g by using some hot end throats for motors and a pebble for the FC, battery and camera.

The standard PETG I have actually faired reasonably well. I did break it - but had to try reasonably hard - some quite hard throwing of it into the floor while spinning is what eventually did for it - one of the arms sheared near the motor mount. However it did survive half a dozen or more hard hard “crashes”.

I also tried some PETG/Carbon composite. Wow - its stiff - and does break incredibly easy…

Onto the bridge nylon - I think its indesctructible… Assuming its flexibility does not affect its flight characteristics too much its what I’ll be using…

I’ll compare to the Carbonyte when it arrives…


#459

Finally have some dry filament. Taulman nypon bridge. Properly handled the filament is exquisite.


Layer adhesion in nylon is pretty wonderful.

These are both 6mm boss v2’s one e011 for a coworker and one tiny f3 for me.

.2mm layer height. 45°c HTB, 245°c at the nozzle, 30mm/s. 5 ring skirt to keep the motor mounts firmly adhered.


#460

To give you an idea of how robust bridge nylon is. And how flexible… Here are a couple of videos showing how you can’t snap it for either the Boss Whoop it regular Boss frame.

I think the support arms are going to be to soft for the whoop…



#461

Wow that’s flexible. Is bridge nylon any different than normal nylon or is it just a brand?


#462

Don’t know how it compares to other Nylon as it’s the only one I have right now…