NotFastEnuf "Boss Series" Brushed Frames - 3D Printable (v2 stl files post #368)

Latest V2 prints are coming out phenomenal. Boss 7mm V2 shown in white ABS


Hey @Vino check out this video on my Boss 7xl. I used a battery tray from a E012 and a foam insert installed with hot glue. I dont think the battery tray will be too bad in a 8mm build. You can also use rubberbands they work great and can be adjusted to what ever battery you have on hand.

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An unflashed e011 wont even fly one of these. It would be a mess - flashing is a necessity. And no I did not speed that up. Lol. Thats exactly how it flies. Most all of my videos are out front … so they probably all look alike. You likely saw me fly before.
To answer more of your questions … I dont use a battery tray. I just stretch a rubber band across the bottom from the canopy screw on one side to the other - no extra weight for me. I did apply the phrase Like a Boss for this series when I first released the series to the community. @TinuZ was inspired by the tiny whoop sticker on my canopy and got creative… he made the first sticker. @mike-heli is a good buddy of mine locally and he made up some stickers for me.

Here is a tell all momet that I may as well share with you guys…and a little history.
When I first got a 3d printer - I immediately went after the dreamcatcher files to build an ultralight. On thingiverse our very own @Benedikt has them posted and in his comments section he mentioned that it takes a crash like boss. Well… my wheels started turning … the phrase stuck in my head, and clearly you can see the influence of the dreamcatcher frame in my design. I decided to update it with a few engineering tricks - make it stronger without making it heavier, add my personal canopy style, make it fit my favorite fc… and “The Boss” was born.


@CRayTech speaking of videos, I believe you have a youtube channel as well? Your car looks familiar, lol. Do you sometimes sit in your garage when you fly? I think I might’ve come across it while looking for E011 with a cam attached.

Great vid. Yeah, I was thinking rubber bands as well. I think I like the “cleanliness” of having the tray but that’s prob because I’m new and not completely worried about every gram on the quad. However, I’m sure I’ll be at that point soon, lol. So, I hope you don’t mind, I’ll be going to your blog site soon and ordering a frame. I just got my Jumper t8sg and 2-6 cell battery charger so after I go through the manuals and look up the parts NotFastEnoug mentioned I’ll be placing an order. :slight_smile:

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@NotFastEnuf great story, lol. As soon as I saw that the first time I was thinking “now that’s a perfect decal,” lol.

trying to figure out the pm system on here. Can’t seem to find the direct msg button yet. I’ll keep looking.

Yep thats me :slight_smile: . I put in a lot of hours on the Eachine E011 in various builds. These Boss frames are so far beyond anything else I’ve flown. I love that I can even put sub par motors in them and they still fly fast and well. The one in the video is using the stock Eachine E011 motors.


@CRayTech That Boss print looks fantastic! Almost as good as Nylon. :smiley:

@NotFastEnuf Thank you for sharing that historical bit! Inspiration and some level of imitation is what creativity and progress are all about.

I had one of the early Dreamcatcher prototypes, which was definitely neat. However, the Boss is several levels more sophisticated, while retaining the simplicity and philosophy of the Dreamcatcher. Truly brilliant! :smiley:


Thanks buddy. lots of trial and error but I think I have it dialed in nice.

Wow, blown away by your designs. I will have to throw a few strands of nylon in the oven and see how your models translate.

Personally I have been doing quite a bit of design using 8520s with a 1S qx70 FC and stock motors. I need to get them onto thingiverse as I am quite pleased with the performance of the Taulman Bridge Nylon (Pla/nylon blend).

With properly dried nylon(precut lengths, a gas oven, ~180<200°F, ~6hrs )I have found that .8mm wall thickness with a ribbed design produces great results. I live in a basement in the PNW and native humidity has led to some extensive testing to figure the stuff out. At this point it is my favorite Filament to print with. In flight applications it has proven to be indestructible. My regular ‘field’ is a metal shop which results in my quads taking a beating on the regular.

While added water would usually be considered a negative, you can generate some interesting effects with ‘wet’ Bridge Nylon. High water content results in an increasingly more flexible print. I would actually prefer to be able to keep it humidity controlled, but have not sorted out a solution for this yet.

Over the holidays I picked up a mutant kingkong 2S bird from on deep clearance. A Smart-90p. Its old and cranky and flies about like the qx70 did out of the box. Currently Working on a similar solution for this power pack as well.

Maybe I put to much weight on the importance of the COT/COG relationship in my designs, but the heatshrink motor mounts are worthy for experimentation with brushed motors.

Some flight footage from a while back I have finally stitched together:

After 2 months of hard flying the first frame is still golden, though I have managed to introduce video signal loss due to damage. The new camera just arrived in the post yesterday, pretty excited to have it back in the air.

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Does anyone here happen to know much about the Jumper T8SG Tx? Mine just arrived today and I have it binded to my E011 and FQ777-124 but I have no Aileron control and can’t figure out why or what kinds of things I can try to solve it. Nor can I find any info on how to factory reset this and see if I happened to do something that made it like this.

Just trying to figure this out before I go and build me a Boss.

@Vino I saw your post on Facebook Jeff. But I hate Facebook so I will try to help you here. That picture you posted of stick inputs is the right place to start. Does the channel in question move on that input screen when you move the sticks? Have you performed the stick calibration feature so that it can learn the motion range??

Edit … I also see that you tried calibration. So scratch that … but what is the bar doing on that stick input screen? If it is behaving properly then it’s a setup issue. If it is not … then it’s a open the radio for repair issue or send it back defective issue.

@NotFastEnuf Damn, yeah, that’s kind of what I figured it was coming down to. I was soo hoping to avoid that and having to deal with gearbest’s cs. The bar is doing absolutely nothing . All 3 other bars move left and right appropriately, the AIL just sits there.

I did think about trying to open the back. Unfortunately one of the screws is darn near close to completely stripped, lol. I also notice there’s a gash in the plastic of my throttle gimbal. I’m beginning to think they gave me a used lemon.

Options for repair … either the potentiometer is defective… the 3 wire plug to the potentiometer is unplugged, or the plug itself has a bad connection. A wiggle test on the wires should determine if that’s the case. I had to solder in a new plug on a devo 7e once.

So I can report on flying this newly assembled Boss 8.5 from last night. As flown today it’s about 33 or 34 grams (my scale sucks) and I’m using a Tattu 600 which is about 15 grams. Compared to a 816 it’s faster in top speed… but as I hucked it around like i fly the boss8 there were times I found myself sinking pretty close to the ground with throttle pegged wondering if it was gonna pull out or eat it from the move I just put it through. It will climb faster eventually but is a little slower off the line and the rpm the props hit is noticably faster once it’s going … but the 816 revs up faster and is more poppy. Keep in mind these are just cheapo motors I’m using. So kv is pretty low. No doubt a quality high kv motor in 8.5 could kill it … but that’s not how I roll. Lol. Pids needed to come up a little higher than 816, and filters needed to go a little lower but I was able to create the exact feel I like. I’m using all new filters in a new experimental version of silverware so I have alot to learn on how they behave and affect tuning. So far it feels like an improvement - but I need to spend some time with it exploring the limits before I release new tunes. I’d say I’m at 80% of where I want to be now.

Overall, it’s awesome but I can feel all that extra weight of the motors and the bigger batteries that 820 motors require so I still prefer 816. Oh yeah … it’s also relevant that I held full throttle for 5 minutes before my pack hit 3.6 volts - so that may have more appeal to some of you. Mixed flight can be stretched to 7 minutes. It takes me 4 260mah batteries to get 7 minutes air time on a boss 8.0. I did also try the 260mah on the 8.5 motors but they can’t hit the same high rpm on the small packs. It was kind of a wash.


good to know. I’ll try again to get this back off and replace the stripped screw. Last night when I tried the phillips was just spinning inside it. But if it’s not a faulty pot then that repair doesn’t seem too hard.

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@NotFastEnuf . Hey, what camera are you using on your latest model? I’ve been wanting to make mine that lower profile style rather than a whip straight up in the air.

Probably the same little aio as you. I just put a soldering iron on the ground plain solder point and bend the antenna back. Add a drop of extra solder and bingo - antenna goes back at 90 degrees

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Now that I’ve got my TX up and running again I can focus on the build. Quick quest on cams. I know a lot of time has been put into the design of these frames, I’ll assume there shouldn’t be much of a difference in flying if I went with a cam like this on the 8mm frame and that it would fit the Boss canopy. The E011, there’s room under the fc to place the board, would the board just get double sided tapes to the top of the fc on these? Would either one of these fit better than the other?

The beta fpv cam is really tall. I’m not sure it fits my boss/whoop canopy. Probably better to run a beta canopy with that. I’ve not tried that either though so I don’t know how well it would fit. I’d go the first one - could probably mount vtx above or below - id try above first. That should work well with either the mohawk or the shanghai mullet canopies. I have a nylonX printed camera mount that would hold the camera nicely for the canopy install which seems to be working out well too,

And fantastic news on your radio!!!

@NotFastEnuf ok, great, I had wanting a reason to try that camera to begin with.

Thanks bud. And much thanks to you for your patience and help. Now it’s on to figuring out channel mapping for switches on rates, angle/acro, etc. I didn’t realize these non stock TXs would give these little guys more speed, it’s nice. lol

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