NotFastEnuf "Boss Series" Brushed Frames - 3D Printable (v2 stl files post #368)


#403

I second that. I don’t get great life from the boldclash ones but the mmw motors are made by chaoli and are much better quality. I too had amazing lifespan from mmw. It’s a hard call. If you’re crashing alot on a boss you risk popped caps and bent shafts. That could be an argument for using boldclash cause you could kill them before they die on their own. On the other hand … if you’ve gotten into a groove and defy gravity like an aerobatic superhero - and you are flying boldclash motors till they fail on you … it’s time to go mmw and save in the long run.

For a whoop - id say go mmw. The motors are pretty well protected and it’s likely you’ll get your money’s worth from the longer lifespan.


#404

Hey guys,

just printed my first BOSS frames, 7mm XL, yet V1, later a V2 for comparison. I must say it looks very promising!
Unfortunately yet everything in PLA, ABS to come later.

@NotFastEnuf, can you share some E011 PID / filter settings please? I trust in your tuning abilities :slight_smile:


#405

Welcome to the fun sir d! Post 279 has some files for the e011 you can take a look at. I assume of course you’re using silverware. Pull in what you like from those files or use them directly! I’m testing some new stuff from silver too. Promising so far on a whoop - need to try it on boss!


#406

Thanks!

i’m planning a 720 Syma X5C build and probably a Brushless 1103. Did you ever try to print a canopy?


#407

Never have tried to print in a final form. It’d be too heavy for my liking. Vacuum forming produces an end result under a half a gram with the right plastic stock.


#408

I’ve had someone tell me to suggest you try PCTPE filament, I know very little about printing but thought I’d pass on. Apparently it can be a pain to get printing right but once you get it, it’s kind of ideal for frames.


#409

My mmw lasted a long time too, they were still going strong when I had a crash that snapped the shaft off one motor flush with the bearing. That was the end of that.


#410

oops! just went through all the footage from last night… there was an incident:


I just forgot about it because it literaly did nothing :rofl: . The tips of all my props are still smooth!!

#411

OK then, i guess I have to jump,into the vaccuum forming business then :stuck_out_tongue:


#412

Just found this thread, how fun these look! I read through as many posts as possible but need a bit of help summing it up on what to get, ordering almost everything new.

I have a spare E011 (new), Jumper T8SG and some E011 rakonheli 3 blade props along with some old hubsan x4 h07l props (not sure of the size atm). Not a pro pilot but looking for something as fast as possible but also stable/reliable. Batteries I have are E011 260mah and I also have some 350mah jst batteries.

I see that C Ray Tech is printing frames. Should I use the motors from the E011 and get the 7mm frame or upgrade the motors and get the 8mm frame? or ideas?

Use my current props or order some HM 830s?

How would I go about getting a canopy as well?

I have parts on the way to be able to flash but never have gone through it yet. Is there a link to a angle/acro dual flash that’s particular to this model?

Apologies for the noob questions, just found you guys and am very interested in building one. I didn’t expect to find you guys this morning but wanted to ask a few questions before I head off to work.

Much appreciated fellas!


#413

I will make some time later today to give you my opinions and guidance. Lol - you have asked all the right questions. They will need very direct answers!

And welcome to the project!


#414

I’ll be looking forward to it! I have my micro and nano quads and have been mostly focused on picking out my next 180-220mm quad lately, until I came across your frame. lol. So any info you share will be greatly appreciated.

and thank you! :slight_smile:


#415

Built my,first BOSS up, using Syma X5C 720s and Ladybird props. Unfortunately I get pretty bad yaw shakes / twitches. I printed in PLA enjoying the stiffneess. Did you guys soft mount the FC somehow or is ABS that soft itself?


#416

@SirDomsen I tried soft mounting one but it didn’t make a ton of difference. What settings are you using? My e011 file from earlier in the thread? Also my tunes are fpv and I see you don’t have a camera on - they will oscillate pretty bad without a camera… and I actuality haven’t spent much time with my 720 build. Maybe it’s time we sort out something together specifically for 720.


#417

Partly. Tried settings from my other copters also, starting with very low PIDs. strangely its unflyble without soft mounts. Had to set hardware gyro 3 plus soft filter 100. limits stock/yours no difference. soft mouted with silicone washers. yaw shakes still there…


#418

Hmm @SirDomsen… My winning combo is usually hardware 0, the 2st gyro filter (about 80 for a noisy build maybe even 70 but that starts pushing things out of phase), max flat d term, and motor filter about .25 (for noisy builds). Also make sure motor curve is off.

Alternate setting would be setting the 2st filter down to about 40 hz and turning the motor filter off. 40 to 45 hz can get the worst setups pretty clean but there is no way to run motor filtering too as it adds too much latency and throws things out of phase. It shouldn’t be needed with gyro filtered that hard anyway.

Try those two out. If they still aren’t tunable I will send you some top secret special sauce experimental stuff. For line of sight I’d expect P about 20 to 25 for roll/pitch, d about 12 to 14, and yaw P no higher than 11 maybe with yaw d of about 2.


#419

I have it flying now, thanks for,your tips. Strangely both didn’t help either. It was the rubber grommets I put between the Fc and the frame eventually. Can’t get why yours fly without softmounting. I wonder if it’s the material…


#420

Could be. I definitely notice a difference between abs and nylonX. Glad you’re in the air @SirDomsen - sorry it gave you so much trouble. It was really hard to design sub 5g printed frames that didn’t have horrible resonant vibrations and had decent strength. Seemingly minor changes had huge impacts on these things. I went through a kilogram of abs just testing so the designs were somewhat tweaked to the behaviour of abs specifically.


#421

Ok @Vino - given your battery selection … I would push you to the boss 8 with 816 syma x5u motors. It is more stable than a boss 7 and more reliable. Motors can be had for 5$ a set on aliexpress. The tune for a boss 8 is In post 279 (I think). Best way to compare different boss flight characteristics would be to dive into my youtube channel and start looking at footage. I just killed my boss 8 today after a bad full throttle crash. Not the frame mind you …
I burnt a motor tangled up in a palm tree. This boss 8 has been with me since the begining of the project with only minor acetone repair maintenance to the frame along the way. In contrast I’ve gone through a few boss 7 frames and motors. I’ll be building another 8 if that tells you anything.
Order some syma x5u 816 motors
Order kingkong 66mm props
Flash my tune from post 279
Results should fly like this…


As for canopies … normally I sell them on ebay. They fit boss frames and whoop frames. I have two designs … the shanghai mullet and the mohawk mullet. The shanghai has more room and Is an easier install for your first time. Recently I have been focused on developing the brushless boss series and have been sending out alot of frames too (thank goodness for @CRayTech helping to get them out) and have let ebay run dry of canopy product. I’m just so short on time something had to slip and it was my ebay canopy store. PM me and we will get ya hooked up with a couple canopies. Alternatively, I have released the canopy mold files to the community so you could always get someone to print you a mold and you could learn vacuum forming and make your own. It’s a fun and rewarding process. But if time is not also in a surplus for you … they’re cheap and I’m happy to make them for you.

#422

@NotFastEnuf, thank you so much! That will be exactly what I get then. I almost feel like I’ve seen that video before. Unless you have another similar video but with the E011 or mb the furibee f36. I think it was one of these two vids that steered me towards towards getting the E011 to flash. I like that shanghai canopy for sure. Although that mohawk version is classic, lol. I feel ya on being short of time. IRL has me by the balls right now as well. Unfortunately I don’t have any connections in the Quadcopter community yet so finding a printer is next to impossible. But I completely understand.

Are you the originator of “Like a Boss” with the drones? I want to say I came across an rcgroup thread or mb it was a youtube video. I almost want to say that the micro drone pic had that sticker on it, which I thought was absolutely perfect. lol. So if that WAS you, very nice!

Again man, thank you for helping me along with this. In regards to the frame, C Ray tech offers the battery tray for a couple extra bucks (which I’m sure you know). Would you recommend having that as well? I’d almost say absolutely but then again it’s extra weight and I wasn’t sure if it would bog down your build a bit and take away from the performance much?

Btw, how does the speed with this build compare to a non flashed E011? Huge diff, slightly faster, etc? It looks hella fast in your vid but I wasn’t sure if that was sped up a bit to make it shorter.