Well nevertheless my friend, I will be sending you a brushed boss 8 frame since IMHO it is the pinnacle of the series with 816 motors and a small battery and it WILL change your opinion of brushed flight after trying it. It will only require an investment of 5$ in the motors. Performance is on par with my 2s brushless crafts. I am also planning a 1s brushless build similar to your plans using the e011 fc. To me that’s a dead simple conversion. Just swap out the motor mounts in the design for brushless … mount the e011 the same way, and use vhb tape to secure the brushless 1s 4in1 to the bottom of the fc. Do you have any objections to that build plan? I see no reason to add legit esc mount points and hardware to over complicate the build but I have no objection to putting them in if you’d prefer that. It will probably require stripping off the brushed motor plugs for a good flat surface. I will be soldering in my pull up resistors there and tapping the pads on top of the e011 for signals. May be able to run dshot without pull-ups but I’m not entirely certain what my esc will like. Motor selection for my 1s build will be the flex rc 1102 16500kv motors when/if they come back in stock. Anyway I digress… let me know how you feel about securing the esc with vhb tape vs adding mounting bungs below the fc. And if you want the 100mm frame for 66mm props or the 90mm frame for 56mm props. Also if you design a boss canopy for line of sight on whoop mount points - I will print that mold for you. I’d like to crack the brushless project open by the end of the week. My brushless fleet needs a boss overhaul. I used to think they were awesome - and now that I have a 1s brushed craft giving them a run for their money in Performance - they are all on the chopping block to be reborn as Boss. It’s simple really - less weight means lots more power.
I had two different people print Boss 7 frames for me, but the diameter for the motors is not fitting at all.
The 7 XL is fine and friction fits without any tooling needed from both printers. Since the Boss 7 frame motor holder walls are so thin I do not feel comfortable enlarging the hole
Has anyone else encountered this?
@NotFastEnuf I totally forgot about the ESC! All you’ve said is probably the best way about it when it comes to mounting the ESC. I tend to use double sided foam tape to most of my brushed builds. As you said the brushed motor pads would need removing for it to be flat. When it comes to getting signal, from the motor pads or FETs underneath, it would be fine but getting it from motor pads would be less fiddly then you have the option of Dshot/Oneshot in accordance to the ESC you use.
I took the slightly different approach with the board and ESC placement. Due to the board being bigger than my pepperfish clone ESC, I put the ESC on top with foam tape. Taking inspiration from a Ian444 build, It didn’t matter if the ESC was flat, so I made two strips of 2mm foam which have me enough clearance for the crystal. Signal came from pads (Oneshot due to the LDO). I don’t know how placing the ESC on the bottom will impact on battery placement on the boss frame because you’ll want the FC as flush and flat as possible?
You’re too kind for the offer of the brushed frame. Waaaay too kind… I’m sure I’ll be able to spot you a beer or two in your PayPal account. I wouldn’t even know where to begin with a LOS canopy! All I know is that it’d be great to protect from moisture when you crash in tall grass! British weather means that everything is wet 10 months of the year! Even a little protection is good.
The 7 and the 7xl have the exact same diameter motor hole and the same wall thickness. Am i to understand you are not seeing both of these two traits? Try a test fit from the top- push the motor in upside down from the top side… does it start to go in that way? If so - then it is just the 1st layer squish that is stopping you. If you are printing in the intended abs material - just take a q-tip wet with acetone and wipe the inside of the motor mount - focusing a bit more heavily on the bottom print layer. Then slowly apply pressure and as the abs softens from the acetone - the motor will slide in.
@TinuZ - I will check my source files again. It’s totally possible I made a mistake in one of the files. Which boss 7 frame version are you having printed? Can you report back on motor mount wall thickness and if they fit from the top please?
@yets - I can whip up a LOS canopy for you. I will start on the mods to the frame and see you over on the brushless thread with more updates. I still need you to specify your request of 100mm frame for 66mm props or 90mm frame for 56mm props.
@NotFastEnuf Been away for a day and come back to this. Brilliant. For the abs frame the classic orange and black canopy I have yearned for for so long would be excellent. Always thought that set up looked so cool.
Also had a delivery of props for the Boss today. Not sure I needed of ordered so many, just excited about this.
*Edit. Forgot my please and thank yous in my haste. Thank you.
@NotFastEnuf Oops, sorry! I think the best option would be for 90mm for these motors as I’d be concerned with how warm they get.
I need to test how warm they get again, can I let you know in 3hrs at if think with such low kv motors I’m using it’ll probably be worth 100mm
My printer squishes and stretches kind of a lot, I have to print at 101% scaling and then use a hobby knife to cut the first layer back. You may be having similar issues.
I just checked my cad files. Spec on motor mount ID is 7.1mm and OD is 8.7mm for both the boss 7 and the boss 7XL. Must be a printing or slicing issue. Either way, if its abs - just wet the inside of the motor mounts with acetone on a q-tip … apply steady and even pressure installing up from below … and hold that pressure as the acetone softens the abs - it will slide in. @Bobnova is also right in that few of us calibrate our printers eactly and there is some variation. Funny that two prints off the same printers squished more on the 7mm twice no less.
BTW - I’m not sure if I’ve mentioned enough how well you did with your canopy… so here it is again - GREAT JOB!! Looks very Boss if I do say so myself!
You should look into conformal coating. I coat all my stuff now and just last weekend I had my brushless elf x2 submerged in water and it still works - even had video feed till we recovered it
Can be brushed on or sprayed and is really quick to apply.
Heeeey don’t ruin my fun! I was getting excited about starting a new project vacuum forming and working something out with NFE!
Seriously though, I’m going to consider it, thanks. I built a brushless over a month ago and it’s been in the air for a total of 18 minutes due to the classic British weather. It’s either been raining non stop or foggy which has left everything soaked. I can’t get anywhere near half bad at flying because of it
Thanks, inserting from the top was not possible either. it is close, but not quite fitting. The file used was “Boss 7mm - E011.zip”
Acetone did allow it to slide in.
The XL is a perfect fit each print in both PLA and ABS that’s why it was so surprising for me that the regular 7mm is fitting so badly for me.
Hopefully my HM830 props arrive before the weekend and I can whip out a few more Bosses
Any number of printer issues can be to blame bit I’m glad you got it worked out! Enjoy your new props!
@NotFastEnuf Tested 66mm props, warm but I think I could tune it out so let’s go with 100mm please
Has anyone printed one in pla yet? If so how durable is it? Love the frames!
A few guys have printed pla. No real reports back on durability - but pla is pla. If you hit something solid - and flying a boss I can assume you’ll be going fast - it’s gonna snap. But if you have a 3d printer… just print more. Whatever gets you in the air! These frame designs are game changing light for brushed. You won’t regret having to swap the occasional frame out because of how well they perform.
It’ll explode on a hard impact, but one nice thing about pla it’s that it hot glues really well, especially at high temp.
It’s certainly worth a shot though! Doesn’t exactly cost a lot to print one
Already totalled quite a few in PLA, it is so hard it just snaps the arms off.
Bet then again, if it is all you have: they print for next to no money.
I am trading my printing buddies frames for canopies now… works out for all of us
Well I made a boo boo asking for the Indy version. Just built my first Indy board whoop using the Furibee Frsky 32bit brushed F3 board having come from Eachine Tiny F3 boards + Flysky sbus rx’s.
This PPM is poop. I never noticed going from PPM Flysky to SBUS Flysky any noticeable difference, though my goodness I am noticing it a year on and going backwards. So laggy and unresponsive flies like a pig.
Gutted I asked for Boss Indy boards now, thinking of ways I could add some kind of platform for the eachine Tiny F3 boards I have, only wondering what Frsky rx to use on a whoop. I may just have to use the Flysky TX for whoops and use the Taranis on bigger builds.
@NotFastEnuf I don’t suppose it is not too late to change?
Edit. All is not lost, just found the Betafpv board does SBUS, so will just sell these PPM boards and get one of those.
I still try to protect my stack/cam/stuff with custom printed things and canopys so conformal coating doesn’t exclude your canopy deal
And yeah I have been flying my brushless in rain,snow,fog etc. no problems with the coating.
Don’t try to fly one in fog without coating tho - I saw a video 2 weeks ago of someone trying that and the quad basically fell out of the sky - don’t underestimate air humidity