Hi, i am not an expert or anything close.
I was quite happy with my Hubsan h1o7L as a a base to improve on.
I have the h107l board on a little carbon frame, and thought i would try larger motors, i bought here. I got the fastest 820 motors and fitted them.
my batteries are not the best, i have more batteries and blades coming.
Problem is that the new motors will not power up. The h107 will make them idle, but any more power and the quad shuts down and lights flash.
Is there a CHEAP board i can buy to get flying again?
i need a cheap and chearfull, gyro only board that can control the copter using controllers i have.
The cotrollers i have are the Hubsan H107L controllers, and i also have a same looking Estes Proto x SLT controller.
I just want a simple board has very fast yaw.
I hope one of you guys/girls can find the time to suggest something for a noob guy that just wants a fast little toy to play in the fields.
Thank you all!
Welcome! You say they spin up to an idle, but not any more. That might be a sign of drawing too many amps, and the FETs can’t handle it. That said, a quick search shows that the motors are 8.5x20mm. But you said that were the fastest, so kv might be playing a role in that. @NotFastEnuf, any ideas about the motors? As for the board, a micro scisky is an excellent choice, but you will still have to configure it. Another one that is cheap is the eachine brushed naze32 board. You can configure the boards to have a fast yaw rate in a configurator. If you look around here on this forum, there should be plenty of people and info to help you out!
It could be voltage sag due to batteries or battery lead. May want to see if a red JST will fix it.
Happy cake day @pilsnerpopper! I agree on voltage sag. Board resetting is actually two signs happening all at once. First it shuts off when voltage gets pulled below 2.8v which is the rating of the on board veg. Then voltage recovers because the board shutting down has stopped the motors and the board boots back up. What plug is already on your batteries? Better batteries should fix it. If it’s a Pico molex, aka Pico blade… I’d suggest the tattu 600mah. 450 to 750 is a good size pack for 8.5mm.
LEDs will pull a bit of power, not much but it probably isn’t helping. A larger capacity battery is also less likely to suffer as much.
That makes a lot of sense. The connector kinda looks like the mini losi connector, or the piko.
You say you configure the board on those mentioned. Problem with that is only have the transmitters i mentioned, a straight forward hubsan h107l tx, which is basically a toy.
Would i need a hobby level tx to go calibrating the board, or just a pc?
by idle, i mean, i tiny bit of power, say under 5% wil spin the blades slowly, like normal, any more power will shut it down, with no reset, it is a basic toy. Pretty sure from commenst here it is the battery, it is old. I have to wait for the new.
THe h107 always had the lights so i used lights, i like lights lol.
The lights really aren’t drawing much. I bet a newer battery will solve your issues. Let us know how it goes.
So it doesn’t reboot after?
Good news and bad news- good news, for the majority of the config process, you don’t need a transmitter/receiver. Bad news- to use it, you will need a hobby grade transmitter and receiver. But, you can get a decent one, flysky, from banggood/gearbest.
If you have a multimeter, try checking the battery voltage when it’s full and after the quad shuts off.
Thanks fellas. It is the battery, i fully charged it, it is a lame usb wire charger, which gives a little more charge if dis/reconnected. so i did that a few times, and it wanted to work for a second, before resorting to before.
This suggests that the 380mah dying battery just won’t have it, not even for a quick test flight.
But it was willing to work at max charge, so i bet my new batteries will get me crashing into trees in no time!
One day i may venture into better models, but i am quite happy learning with the cheapies for now. The motors cost about the same as the rest combined lol
There are alot of us that just hack the toy models with something called silverware. That bring them right up to speed with all the more official options out there. Good luck in the trees! I was in a few myself this week. I favor the fishing pole for recovery
My neiggbors think im nuts probably. Or a really bad cast lol.
BetaFPV have a 10 buck silverware cheapie…not sure if your tx will run it though but have a look.
THat is very interesting. Probably perfect for a noob.
I went with a h107c board, same price, bc it is made for the 8.5 motors.
Hubsan’s old site have the wrong image for the board, and hence so do nearly all the shops.
Some people think it uses the same board, in which case i bought a replacement. But i am pretty sure that is not the case, as the part number is different enough, and some people’s personal vids show the 2 boards are different. Someone thinks it’s something to do with a masfat, or mfart, or what ever it was called, not handling the large motors apparently (sorry, i have no idea what i mean either lol).
The accro flight mode does look intriguing to try some time, that really looks like my cup of tea, i like loops etc. closest i have on mine are lamely setup flip action. And it lists some toy controllers it can use, so for now I have bookmarked that link for a possible future.
Hi…as per my knowledge board resetting is actually two signs happening all at once. First it shuts off when voltage gets pulled below 2.8v which is the rating of the on board veg. Then voltage recovers because the board shutting down has stopped the motors and the board boots back up.
So the new C board is the same board.
Turns out (I think) it is a combination of above and the board position.
The board’s position had components snug against frame, then was a fabric sticker (velcro soft side) then battery, then frame. It also had insulation tape on back of board - it was getting too hot.
I moved it to top of frame, components facing up into the prop draft, never happened since.
Batteries i use now are 500m 25c 1 cell. the 650mah was a little too heavy, and the 500’s last longer, and perform better.
Although after watching that Ted Quad video, i may give it up and let the robots take over all driving/flying/ world domination, as my attempts on all 3, the latter especially, have been lackluster in comparison.
I want to buy the silverware fc from Amazon Makerfire Whoop Lite FC Brushe… It says it runs the bayang protocol I have a fsi6x transmitter with the irx6 multiprotocol unit plugged into the back for my e011 just wanted to make sure that the FC is compatible with my transmitter setup before I buy it
It should work. The E011 is Bayang and if its working your tx at the moment, the Whoop lite will work with it too
Finally got my betafpv 65s lite got it bound to my flysky i6x but I can not find the mode switch have turned all switches and nothing changes am I going to have to setup switches in firmware I have an st-link should I just reflash it with silverware dual mode