My aurora 100


#1

My custom build based on Aurora frame.

Minicube FC
Led strip ready
Switchable 25/50/200 mW Vtx with raspberry heatsink and audio
1000 tvl cam with audio
Balancer connector

6:30 flight time using 460mah 2s lipo

This is my best build so far, thanks also to what I learned here.


#2

More details, please. That cam heatsink is tres cool, and I want to hear more about your build decisions for installing the different components. You have your VTX installed with LED showing forward, brilliant! How’s your battery attached? Pics of the stack from the side, please.

Lovely work, @vinz486!


#3

Battery is attached via velcro strap pushing lipo on anti skid bumpers:

I removed JST connector and cables from lipos: I think they are useless, notably when the cables have same AWG than the balance conncector.

I use a 2S female balance connector fixed on the bottom of quad using silicon glue. Silicon glue is perfect for fixing plastic on metal or plastic on plastic (but I dont kwon if can damage electronic SMD component because of solvent inside)

My only concern now is: will the Minucube have sufficient mA to power supply VTX at 50 or 200mW? I’m afraid of burning the voltage regulator…


#4

Thanks for the pics! Silicone, nice, I just used that on something completely different, and had been frustrated on how hotglue wasn’t working between my CF and PCBs.

Since the Minicube ESC (and many other recent 4in1s) only provides 0.5a out through the 6-pin, I’ve added a pololu or other between batt and fc to ensure power delivery. Without that, I’d burnt a couple peripherals powering off the FC because power out wasn’t well regulated.


#5

Yeah, hot glue isn’t really a glue: keeps on only by mechanical basis.

I will try pololu regulator but, since is a switching type, I must check that will not cause horizontal bands on image.


#6

I put the pololu between batt and fc, thinking a regulator on the fc would smooth things out, no? The pololu would just be a step-down primarily.


#7

Mmm… I don’t know is supplying current from 5V to 5V is less stressful than from 8V to 5V.

Some electronics expert needed here.


#8

The minicube seems to exist in 2 versions:

  • Version 1 was with USB plug on the FC, and with a small voltage regulator (almost pololu size) to be soldered between 4in1 ESC and FC
  • Version 2 has no USB plug on the FC but an cable to plug in with USB connector on the other end. This FC can be directly connected to 2-4s (there are Lipo pads) and has an integrated BEC 5V/1A (at least that’s what they say).

I have the entire minicube stack in version 1, therefore with the included external small regulator, and it works well with camera and 25mw VTX (never tried more) on the FC.


#9

As far as I know, the external module is not a voltage regulator but a filter to mask ESC electrical noises.


#10

Yeah, my experience with the Minicube v1 is that the external component was an LC-Filter, and did NOT regulate voltage, thus 2S fried a cam (or two) and rx as well (iirc) before I measured output and inserted a step-down.


#11

@vinz486 nice buitd ! I have almost same thing mounted on a firer 110 and I am interested in your microphone solution.
The 1000 tvl cam has a microphone but what is the VTX you have used to accept the audio in ? I couldn’t find any :thinking:

Also do you have a record of your recent flies to see the vid quality of the 1000tvl?


#12

I use this VTX https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-ATX03-Mini-5_8G-72CH-025mW50mw200mW-Switchable-FPV-Transmitter-w-Audio-p-1141121.html?rmmds=myorder

And the cam has 4 pins: ground, voltage, video, audio.

The cam was out of focus and the lens detached from PCB (very bad build quality), so I ordered a replacement.

Beside this, I have Skyzone goggles, which have a very bad DVR quality, so 1000 TVL cannot be seen via video recording. At first impression is not different from classic 600TVL cams, but I want to see of the new cam will be better.

(this is Skyzone recording quality: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NROQw8KrK58 )


#13

Great !
Thanks for your details


#14

You’re right, after checking it is only a LC Filter for the V1. However, I wired everything up as it’s supposed to be from the diagram in the manual:

The important step is to omit the positive wire on the ESC connector on the FC.

I do get (almost…) 5V on the OSD output (used for VTX and Camera), and after soldering the solder bridge accordingly, 3.3V for my DSMX receiver. The other side of the FC seems to contain some kind of voltage regulator/divider.

Worked so far on 2S and 25mw VTX through many batteries and crashes.


#15

Ok, got the new camera and IT’S TOTALLY A HUGE CRAP SHIT. Spent hours to try to get focus but the truth is that these 11$ 1000TVL cameras are totally fake.

Swapped with a kingkong style, classic 600TVL camera, and uhaa crisp and clear image, real colors, real definition, real focus.

So, I warn you: do not purchase these 1000TVL camera from Banggood.

For reference, this is crap 1000TVL camera: https://www.banggood.com/1_2g-Super-Light-1000TVL-14-CMOS-2_8mm-Lens-FOV170-Degree-Mini-FPV-Camera-p-1110381.html?rmmds=myorder

You can recognize the crap camera from the electronics components on the back:

Also, the audio was very useless: totally disturbed and noisy, a total mess.

This is instead the good camera:

And audio is cristal clear.


#16

Thanks for the heads up and the link!