Yes, good point @Denovich!
I also learned to use tweezers as a heat sink after that.
Yes, good point @Denovich!
Also enamel coated magnet wire is very good for this as well. I use it for repairing traces and pads on FC. Very discrete and can be purchased pretty cheap in all sorts of gauges. I mostly use 30 or 28g. As far as the standard insulated wire goes, the silicone is the $#!+. I will not use the vinyl/pvc stuff as it is usually looking like the pic above just after tinning the wire. Haha The tweezers as a heat sink is good But if you use the high temp silicone insulated wire, you will never look back. This Amazon vendor is a good source for the silicone wire:
and this is the type of enamel coated magnet wire I use:
I had one come apart internally from an especially vicious blow to a stop sign once.
Other than that, you’d be surprised how fast you can build 5 of these awesome ripsters.
The 5v pololu is part of a DIY FPV backpack, it’s switchable to 3v, I use it to filter noise from motors.
600tvl, 25mw vtx, whip antenna.
@Kamsleo69 How do you like the whip antennae, I’ve been thinking about trying them out. Does the feed break up going around obstacles, like especially trees?
So I was wrong, my FPV backpack I used a 200mw, and compared to the eachine tx01 it’s better.
How did you power your loc8tor tag? Just direct from lipo up to 4.2V?
Just got loc8tor set for about $8 and now stripping one tag for my micro 105mm.
@pedro147 any info here?
Safe bet would be to go with the voltage that it runs off of from the battery in the case. Not sure if it is a variable range of voltage but there is always the option to use a drop down voltage regulator which can accommodate whatever voltage it requires or power it separately from another small battery. I will poke @pedro147 to have a look at the question here and we’ll see what he says.
Hi @MultirotorGo What exact model of Alien is it please?
I may be able to help
No poking thanks @madman1412 I am not that sort of guy
Not that there’s anything wrong with that
So what about that power for loc8tor tag? I didn’t see any step-down regulator on your quad.
Well I have decided to add a buzzer on my scisky…
I did the soldering with my heat gun and flux quite easily on 4th pin with 38AWG silicone wire for the + of the buzzer. I have tested with voltmeter and I had no shortcuts so all sound perfect for my testing with lipo.
The FC looks working great as usual (I have not settled back the motors though) but definitely I have no buzzer sound at all !
So I have:
- tested separately the buzzer and it works well from 3v to 5v
- tested the mass and it is OK
- tested the posive at the end of my 38AWG wire and oh never see any voltage even when the green led is blinking! I have double check my 4th pin soldering but again all seems OK so I un soldered it and tested the voltage on pin 4 (PA12) but so surprising I have no voltage at all! never it get any power!
Why this happen to me…
please help !
Hi folks !
Well I have mounted all on the frame + plugged the mortors and it flies well ! but no buzzer sound at all
Why do I have no voltage on that pin PA12 ???
Can I sort out the voltage from another point to connect my buzzer ?
I have read that the voltage is hard to or can’t be read w a multimeter from pin 12.
I have done this mod on the original Scisky and it was tough. Would you post some pictures of your mod? Maybe someone can help you figure this out.
Thanks kamsleo69 for your advice.
I also use the original scisky
In fact I was expecting to find same value as sixbras (j’adore ton pseudo ;-)) as per his previous video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j2NDKId-04M
But when I use my voltmeter I have nothing on pin PA12… On other pin like the first on its right I can see some volts
If someone can test on a spare FC ?
The best would be for me to find another point to connect my buzzer…
Just came across this nice and lightweight buzzer option. Thx to Charlie at FB.
Not as loud as it’s bigger and heavier brothers, but man these look very promising.
@chrisdo Are you going to order some?
But not sure whether this works, since it states “Transducer, Externally Driven”.
Edit: Datasheet looks like it needs a square wave input, bummer.
If the buzzer port would output a ~7kHz square wave - these would just work, maybe it could be done without additional circuitry? At least on an F3 running at 8kHz looptime I could imagine that you could simply do something like:
static int squareWave = 0; if (beep) squareWave = squareWave ? 0 : 1; outputToBeeper(squareWave);
Would maybe be a neat idea to coordinate digikey group orders for us Germans, since we could easily reach “free shipping” then.
Attempting sub 40 gram micro brushless build
Oh, damn. Didn’t read carefully enough. Was late at night.
Shit. Ordered 10 pcs at arrow.com for around 15€. Good thing, they offered free shipping. And they already shipped them. To late to cancel the order.
@las I will send you some when they arrive.
It seems the feature we want to drive these buzzers was integrated into BF 6 days ago.
Huh, good to hear.
Will read the link this evening. When I have questions I know where to ask .