How to set up Scisky FC step by step


Postet this in another thread and thought it deserves a seperate topic.

If there´s sth. wrong or incomplete, please let me know.
Remember, I’m not an english native speaker, so instructions might sound somehow strange or clumsy .

How to set up a SCISKY FC and get it in the air

CF = Cleanflight, don´t forget to press save in each tab after making changes and before switching to another tab. In CLI type: save and then press enter.



  1. solder on motor plugs and battery lead. Check for correct polarity of both.

  2. Plug in via usb (no battery at same time) and connect to CF.
    After 10 sec. red led is flashing fast (=bind mode).

  3. Bind with tx (before set tx to dsm2).
    I just turn around to bring my body between fc and tx. Then power on tx while holding bind button. Always works 1st time.
    Binding could also be done without connected to CF. Just power FC via usb or battery and wait for fast flasing red led.

  4. Go to CF configuration tab.
    Mixer: Quad X
    Enable motor stop.
    Set minimum throttle 1000, mid throttle 1500, maximum throttle 2000, minimum command 1000.
    Failsafe throttle should be lower than your min. throttle (lowest throttle stick input, see receiver tab ( me using 990-995) to make sure motors stop when signal is lost, this avoids flyaway. (Failsafe has an seperate tab now).
    Receiver mode should be RX_Serial, serial receiver provider should be SPEKTRUM1024.

  5. Go to CF receiver tab.
    TAER 1234.
    Look if stick inputs work in correct directions, if not revers channels on tx.
    Set min./max. stick inputs that each channel shows about min. 1000 / max. 2000 and centered 1500.
    You have to raise travel adjustment in tx for each channel/stick. On my dx6 I raised each channel to -/+ 147 to get the above mentioned min/max values.
    Set rc rate and rc expo how you like it. Stock Scisky is 0,9 and 0,65.

  6. Go to CF modes tab.
    Press add range to assign a switch and channel (aux1 or aux2) to enable angle and horizon mode by setting the grey bars to the range where the green thing moves when toggling selected switch.
    If no mode is set it’s in rate/acro mode. Say if green thing isn’t in the range of angle or horizon it’s in acro mode.

  7. Go to CF CLI tab.
    Type: set motor_pwm_rate=32000 (others use 23200 for 8.5mm motors, 22000 for 7mm); press enter.
    Not necessary, but good to counteract jittering of channels in receiver tab:
    type: set deadband=6; press enter and type: set yaw_deadband=6; press enter.
    After those mentioned changes don`t forget to type: save; press enter.

  8. Go to CF PID tuning tab and choose PID controller you want (read here in forum about these) and adjust values and rates (on left side) to your likings.
    You can set up 3 different profiles (don’t forget to set up rc rate and rc expo in receiver tab and set up modes for each profile). Profiles can be changed by using stick commands, no connection to CF necessary.

  9. Calibrate acc in setup tab if you have installed Scisky onto frame.
    Frame and Scisky have to be level. (It’s also possible to calibrate acc with stick command when not connected to PC but powered with battery; for stick commands see picture below).

  10. Disconnect Scisky and plug in Battery (TRIPLE CHECK POLARITY BEFORE PLUGGING IN A BATTERY!!!).
    Wait till green led stops flashing and turns off (gyro calibration).

  11. Arm it by stick command, fly it.
    Side note: motors only spin with battery power not while powered via usb.
    Don’t trim via tx. Trim FC by using stick commands.

Stick commands.

Scisky LEDs:
red: fast flashing = bind mode; solid = bound and ready to fly
green: solid = armed; off = disarmed; flashing = gyro calibration, moron threshold
blue: on = acc active (angle and horizon mode); off = acc inactive (rate/acro mode)

Also see this by @woodsturning

If you reversed polarity and had a magic smoke encounter see here to fix it.

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Fast green led flashing means you have exceeded the moron threshold…Its a real thing, I did it lol. Just means the FC is moving to much during battery plug in/powerup. Either plug in gently or change the moron threshold in cli. It’s to do with gyro calibration.


I was wondering about that. I have been getting the quick green flash after hard crashes. Arming and disarming just turns the green flashing on and off. Good to know.

@Chrisdo you may want to include


at the top :wink:


Thanks for the write up…

I think think its funny that it’s called the moron threshold. I always wondered what that setting did.

Just curious… why can’t one plug in a battery at the same time as it being powered up via usb? I know with the Beef’s Brushed Board you can. I also do it with my Naze32 and assoc. clones.




Some on rcgroups thread say it works, I will not try.


The scisky/pico powers the integrated tx from the usb source or so I have read; so if you power it from battery as well you become a magic smoke wizard. I don’t really know if its right and I’m not going to test it.



I did it a few times by accident yesterday with no ill effects… even was running the motors with it tethered to the USB cable so I could see the accelerometer/gyro readings in real time.


I believe the Scisky will also blink the green LED, if you disarm after some battery low voltage threshold is reached. I noticed this while doing inflight adjustments. The constantly blinking green light competes with the blinks that it does when you are trimming the accel.


I also had that once. Ignored my timer and recognised a massive loss of power. Landed and disarmed FC and the green led started flashing. Battery voltage was sth. about 3.35 if I remember correctly.


Yup noticed the LED blinking at me when batt is low on the BBB. It has two different rates. Fast when you hit the first voltage and faster when you hit the lower cut off voltage.

The Naze32 works the same way… I believe all these brushed boards are based off the Naze32 STM32F1 board. Thus they should act similarly.


Yes. Which makes me wish we had more documentation on this board… Is there a pad for LED, BUZZER, or other standard Naze32 functions? Buzzer and LED control would be really nice. An Aux channel output would be cool too.


I can tell you the BBB implements some of these features. On the bottom of the board there are two options… PWM7 allows for LEDs and Beep alllows for a buzzer. The buzzer requires some external circuitry to work. I thought about it, but never did it because of weight constraints of micros.

And yes not having documentation for the SCISKY isn’t helpful. I’d think that the SCISKY should have similar outputs. Otherwise, it would require some serious soldering to the pins of the STM32…

[FC] - scisky: fully integrated, 2.5g, CleanFlight FC

In CF configuration tab there’s a setup box called battery voltage. Min voltage is 3.3v, warning voltage is 3.5v (stock scisky settings).
Think mine blinked because it reached one of those thresholds, but don’t know which one. Assume the min voltage, because warning voltage could be activated for inflight warning but don’t know how to do that with additional LEDs or buzzer on scisky.
Have not enough knowledge about all that fancy stuff and FCs in general.


Thanks for the great Scisky setup tutorial @chrisdo it is very well written, even for a ‘English native speaker’ :smiley:


FYI Scisky must have voltage protection in place. I plugged in batt and USB for an expirment last night expecting it to blow and it handled it fine.


On rcgroups others reported this too.
On HK they warn to do it.
Because of that I put MAYBE at the end of warning.
Have you armed it and get motors to spin?
Would be interesting if that’s working.
If yes one could use motor test in CF, right?


If we could use motor test in CF, that would help diagnose bad or going motors correct?


I’m not sure what will happen when FC is powered via usb (5v circuit) and battery (3.3v curcuit?) and you apply throttle.
And I’m not willing to test it. But if somebody will do that I would like to know results.


If powering it doesn’t smoke it, I would tend to think using throttle should be ok. The warning on the hobbyking page mentions that it it the fets that could be damaged. I really can’t see how draining power down across the fets will hurt it. Someone who knows more should correct me but I think the stm32 itself is providing the fusing in this situation, its the thing that is recieving usb power. The battery power comes in via the regulated stuff. If the board handles 5v from the usb, why would putting a 4,2v source up to it in a basically parallel connection hurt it.

Proviso, This is speculation. Not fact or science. I might experiment later on.