Furious FPV "Nuke" Brushed Flight Controller Set-up Guide


#1

Furious FPV “Nuke” Brushed Flight Controller Set-up Guide



Furious FPV Nuke Brushed F3 Flight Controller Set Up

Important Notes:

  • This Flight Controller does not take power through the USB port. You will need to have a 1s lipo plugged in while connected to a computer.

  • If using a DSM2/X satellite receiver, binding will have to be done manually with a full size receiver.

Flashing Betaflight:

  1. Download & Install Betaflight: https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/betaflight-configurator/kdaghagfopacdngbohiknlhcocjccjao?hl=en

  2. Initial Set-up:

  • Open Betaflight and click on “Firmware Flasher”
  • Choose a board -> “Piko BLX”,
  • Choose a Firmware Version -> Most Recent
  • Enable Full Chip Erase
  • Select “Load Firmware [Online]” on the bottom,
  • Click “Flash Firmware”.
  • If successful, skip to step 4.
  1. “No Response From Bootloader” situation:
    In the event of a flashing failure or flashing the wrong firmware, the board may become unresponsive to new attempts to flash. You will need to short the boot pads (found right below the micro usb port), and enable “No reboot mode” when re-flashing with the proper firmware.

Flight Controller Set-up:

  1. “Set-up” tab -> calibrate accelerometer

  2. “Ports” tab:

  • UART3 row -> engage the “Serial Rx”.
  • Save.
  1. “Configurations” tab.
  • Mixer -> Quad X
  • Receiver Mode -> “Rx_Serial”.
  • Serial Receiver Provider ->
  • “Spektrum 1024” for DSM2
  • “Spektrum 2048” for DSMX
  • “SBUS” for Frsky sbus receivers
  • Set Motor Stop
  • Min Throttle = 1070, Mid Throttle = 1500, Max Throttle = 2000, Min Command = 1000
  • Save.
  1. “Receiver” Tab
  • Set TAER1234
  • Save
  1. “Modes” Tab
  • Set “ARM” to AUX1 if you wish to arm via switch.
  • Set Flights Modes (Optional). Acro/Rate mode is the default, so if you wish to use Angle and Horizon, you will need to set it now. I usually put the flight modes on AUX2, with a 3-position switch to have access to all 3 flight modes.
  • Save
  1. “PIDs” Tab
  • Roll Rate -> 0.70 to start. Adjust higher for more sensitivity, lower for less sensitivity.
  • Pitch Rate -> 0.70 to start. Adjust higher for more sensitivity, lower for less sensitivity.
  • Yaw Rate -> 0.70 to start. Adjust higher for more sensitivity, lower for less sensitivity.
  • Adjust PID values as you deem necessary.
  • Save
  1. Go to the “CLI” Tab
  • Motor Jitter/Start up spinning -> Type: “set motor_pwm_rate=32000” enter.
  • Save.
  • Power down.

#2

I would love to try this FC, but how would it hold up with Benedikt’s fastest motors, CL-0820-17, CL-0820-18 ?
I see the fets are only rated for 6.3A


#3

I would like this for a tiny whoop.


#4

@quadlifepro The board can handle -18 motors just fine. The highest current draw that I’ve seen on the bench with the -18 motors is with the parrot style props and it was ~5.25A . It’s going to be less in a flight controller unless there’s some magic <750mAh 1S battery that I don’t know about that can put out over 21A. :smiley:


#5

I snagged a couple of discontinued 100mm frames from Dave @ PicnicQuads a while ago and have been wondering what to do with them. The “body” portion has been too small for any flight controller that I had and I hate when a flight controller hangs over the ends. Turns out that the Nuke fits this frame beautifully!

So I installed the Nuke along with Furious FPV’s Micro RX (with telemetry) and chopped up one of the frames to make a cover plate:

W/o battery, it weighs in at 32g. I initially had -18 motors installed, but it was just a bit too crazy. It’s a rocket even with -15 motors.

The setup was a little bit irritating. I’m of the opinion that they should have done most of those steps prior to shipping the boards out.


#6

Great manual!

I fallowed every step and get telemetry on my Taranis after binding, but no Signal in the receiver tab.

Any idea what could be the problem?


#7

Never mind, found out that I had to set sbus inversion off in the CLI…


#8

I’m completely new and just purchased the furious fpv nuke for a tiny whoop build and have a few questions.

  • I didn’t realize i needed the micro rx when i bought the nuke (noob i know). I’m not sure how to solder the two pieces together can someone link me to a good tutorial? I tried the video at this link - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q6KuMqeXLGs but this flight controller has holes to solder the wires through, the nuke does not.

Having trouble finding the resources to get started, can someone throw some links my way?


#9

Can you tell us which rx you have to use with the nuke FC? This could help determine how to solder the 2 together.


#10

Yeah I bought the micro rx from furious fpv (figured it was recommended in the instruction above)
Link - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M8KDDXJ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


#11

Well , from what I can see here on the chart from the furious FPV website it looks like 4 wires may need to be soldered: positive , ground, signal, and a telemetry.

What is your soldering experience?


#12

If you aren’t too familiar with soldering, give this a read…

I gotta get to bed… hopefully I was more helpful than none! Have a goodnight I’ll check back on this thread in the morning


#13

As far as the holes on one board and not the other i personally I wouldn’t worry about making sure the wire is soldered through the board. Just make sure the wire is soldered to the corresponding spot.

Add a micro touch of flux to each pad to solder, then tin those pads. tin both sides of all 4 wires, then solder all 8 points together…


#14

Thanks so much for linking the resources, waiting on the micro rx to arrive to actually do this.

My soldering experience is almost 0. I’ll watch the video you linked tonight after work thanks.

So I just need to make sure the tin pads match up with the wires as per the diagram? Solder the pads on top of them essentially and im good to go?

I just realized I am going have to purchase wires (I doubt the rx will come with one, the flight controller did not). Do you recommend a type/size to use for this type of job? Feel free to just point me to links instead of answering in full, just having trouble locating good micro fpv soldering info.


#15

well, you want to use a good silicon coated wire. The only place I could get that personally was getfpv.com

I would think a really thin gauge wire should work maybe like 26aug ?

As far as soldering the 4 wires on you should use 4 different color wires to avoid a mix up. But no worries, If you only have just a long black wire for example Cut that up into 4 pieces, and then mark them with a coding system so you know which wires are which.

As far as tinning the wires and the FC pads, all you have to do is melt a little solder on each wire and melt a little solder on each FC solder pad before you actually connect 2 points together. If you don’t put some solder on both ends prior to connecting each wire to the pad you may not get a solid “joint” of solder connecting the wire to the board.


#16

Amazon has a load of silicone wire. The stuff sold by BNTECHGO is really nice. I use 30awg for all “signals” and for low draw power leads to VTX, cam, RX, and FC.

For motors and ESC supplies leads I size the wire to the expected current demands. 2206 2400kV with 6" props you can pull well over 100A. My 4S batteries have either 12/14awg wires. I usually use 12awg wire for a little more durability. The wires to my ESCs will see at most less than half that. 40A is a ton of amps for 1 motor. So I can use 16/18gauge (depends on my mood) to the escs.

For 1S quads, the size if the wire hardly matters. Use 30awg because it’s easier to find. Except for the battery lead. A sticky JST connector and the next thing you know you snapped your leads in half. So it seems best to size up 18-22 for durability.


#17

Would you recommend this for the connecting my micro RX?
Wires (RX and Bat to save money)
https://www.amazon.com/StrivedayTM-Flexible-Silicone-electronic-electrics/dp/B01LH1FV9A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484088668&sr=8-1&keywords=30awg%2Bsilicone%2Bwire&th=1

Flux
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DNR01Q/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Flux bottle-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IOQGUB0/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2BVKVP5YQFNEH


#18

Did you ever end up placing an order for those items yet?

those items look pretty good so far…

If you have a radio shack near you though or an electronics store maybe they would have any items you missed if you missed any.

Also, local hobby shop should definitely have some wire… check them out too!


#19

I ordered one of these for a custom long range rambo whoop I’m building. Super excited to get it! Anyone using the 5v out to power their vtx? I’ll be using a 400mw vtx i had laying around. Wondering if it works good or if I’m better off running an external pololu from the battery leads. On other boards I have the onboard 5v is no good and I get better picture quality with pololu as lc filter. Then the scisky where using the 5v caused brownouts.
Has this board been reliable for everyone here?


#20

I did place the order, will update everyone once I get everything together and try to finish my nano build