First brushless build, what a journey! Air Ro 4"


#41

Yeah in the DX6i menu you can select copy model and create a new file off an existing model. As I was reading that question I was thinking, how the heck is he going to copy and paste the file?? Haha I was thinking PC rather than Tx because with the open source radios you can copy the file as a text and save it to a model file via USB interface. The DX6i does have limitations but is a decent Tx. The travel adjust on all the channels in the menu should be up at 125% which is as high as they go.


#42

Now that I finished the LOS minimalist 128 project, I must finish the FPV apollo 130 project. I just realized this build was started around 3 months ago but I kept procrastinating out of fear of screwing something up so I tried to study more prior to doing anything lol

Now that I am armed with smokestoppers for xt30 and xt60, and a LOS brushless build under my belt, I am ready to delve into the FPV side of building quads. Since this build is so similar to my last build I am feeling confident in starting tonight.

My parts list for this build officially includes:

Apollo 130 frame
racecraft 3" quad blade props (not included in picture)
RCX 1407 3200kv motors
lumenier littlebee 4 in 1 ESC
revo f4 FC
spektum dsmx sat RX (not included in picture)
foxeer hs1177 camera with 2.5mm gopro lens
200mw raceband TX
triumph antenna (for now until I find something smaller) (not included in picture)

I didn’t realize there was a such a detailed step by step manual for the furious FPV piko BLX on my last build. I just saw the manual and the spektrum set up video like 2 days ago and felt so foolish for asking so many questions that were answered in that manual, so thank you @Chrisdo for putting up with me and that sillyness…

Going to spend the work day to start studying as much information on the revo F4 FC wiring set up as possible…


#43

Crash course on Revo:

No buzzer pads (need to make your own circuit)
No VBAT pads (need to make a voltage divider if you want the FC to know the battery Voltage)
No on board Step Down regulator… use the 5v supply from your ESC

You might not have had to fool with this before…

To flash it, you are likely to need to put it in DFU mode. There are two tiny pads between the Flexi port and the Main port. Short those two pads, and plug it into USB. You are in DFU mode. If on windows, you’ll probably struggle with drivers. It just works on the Mac.

This talks about it… same process for BF. (Note the older board is pictured… and the boot pins are in a different spot.)

http://raceflightinfo.com/2016/06/01/flashing-cc3d-revolution-revo-with-raceflight/

Hooking up your sat:

Feed the board 5V through one of the + output pins (the pins on the right in picture, three rows: Signal, +, -)

Pull 3.3v for your DSMX sat from the right most boot pin.
Use the GND (pin 1) and RX (pin 4) of the Flexiport for your sat

(I desolder the Flexi port and solder directly to the pads, but you can use the supplied wires (just don’t use the + from the Flexi Port because that is 5V.)

General wiring/setup guide:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2740049-HOWTO-F4-Revo-Revolution-Betaflight-Raceflight-sbus-vbat-telemetry-buzzer-OSD


#44

I have tried to study as much as I can about this FC, and have came to the conclusion that this is going to be much more challenging than I thought, mainly because I have zero experience in electronics essentially.

i am going to attempt the build with this board following your directions to the best of my technical ability, but if worst comes to worst and I end up botching it I can always slap in a plug and play style piko blx FC f3 board and call it a day. lol

I do have a quick question though, i have an HS1177 flight camera and a fx799t 200mw VTX .

The HS1177 requires 5v-22v input to power it.

The VTX has a 5v output to power the camera… But it requires 7V-20V input (typically 12v) to power it… Does this mean I power the VTX off the power leads from the littlebee 4in1 ESC? Using a 4s will be at 16.8v fully charged, so it shouldn’t burn out the vtx?


#45

You can power the VTX straight from the Lipo
You can them power the Cam from the VTX
Power the FC from the ESC


#46

So i decided to start snipping and trimming and planning for the build.
I figured hey, let me get an idea of where im going to place things so let me build up this frame real quick and try to fit everything where I’d like it…

This is what it should pretty much look like, weighing in at 174g auw with battery strap and 277g so far with an tx 30 850mah 4s lipo! (Just above my goal of 250g, dang! But I should get about 5:30- 6 minutes flight
Time Cruising around. And this thing should rip too! :slight_smile:

Most of the RTF 150s out there are coming with a 500-550mah battery size. I did some research and I found an xt30 4s 650mah tattuu battery that weighs 74g, which should put it at a total weight with at about 248g, which is more where I wanted to be in terms of weight for a 130mm! Not too bad looking for my first fpv micro build with hs1177 full sized camera lol

Still studying the FC, which is why I haven’t attempted any soldering yet… I still have much to do!

I need to solder motor wires to 4in1ESC.

Then afterwards on the side I need to plug in HS1177 camera to 12v input and power it up and program it to the proper setttings.

Then I need to get down to soldering the motor signal wires 5v positive from littlebee and ground to the FC.

Then I need to solder on reciever. (Gotta research this a little more)

Then I need to solder the VTX to the littlebee 4in1 powerleads to power it, and hook up the hs1177 camera to be powered off the vtx.

Once all that is done, I can power up via smokestopper and if I get no smoke then I can plug into betaflight and try to program it all in from there!

(Sorry for posting my to do list, but I’ll forget and lose track of my order of operations without doing so lol if anyone has any suggestions, or ideas I’m always willing to use them ! )


#47

Also, judging by the looks of things I may be able to keep everything fairly modular in terms of swapping and adding components… :slight_smile: I like this frame. I need a stubby attenda tho, that’s for sure lol


#48

Yeah, save 8g with a whip.

Are you using Aluminum lock nuts on the motors? You can save a lot of weight with that swap.

Do you have the nuts screwed on all the way? You aren’t getting much engagement of the nylon lock in that photo. If so, look for low-profile lock nuts. (ReadymadeRC has them I think). I had the same problem with DAL T3045s which have a thick center hub. (The other option is counterboring the prop hub to 8mm and 2mm deep so that it sits flush on top of the motor. I did this. It works. But is a pain in the ass to setup and do)

You might see >5min, you might not. 850 is a good size. I was using 1000mah and I think I got 5min. But it’s been a while since I ran 1407s.


#49

Also that is a very respectable weight. You should focus on reliability. You will crash often. Hot glue is your friend. Strain relief. If a wire gets tugged, you want to spread that over the wire, not concentrated right at the solder joint. Locktite motor screws (even on a test hover… they will rattle out.) I’ve been experimenting with hot glue here too (it works).

And tuck things away. Your RX on the top worries me. I’d at least suggest turning the RX 180. In a crash, you don’t want a connector to be the first point of impact. So facing backwards it’s probably safer. I decase mine. I desolder the connectors (on fc and rx) I use short 5cm 30ga silicone wires and direct solder. I then hot glue the RX somewhere convenient. You might even be able to do a top mounted battery if you wanted

I think you have loom bands holding the motor wires to the arms… Good idea. I think it could be improved by lashing the wires with thread/line… something with less give. The reasoning: in huge crash (or you forget to loctite your motor screws AMHIK) and the motor goes swinging around at a high speed relative to your ESCs… You want the wire to take the damage, and not let it rip the pads off your more expensive 4-1 ESC.

But don’t let this thinking paralyze you either. You have a good looking build as-is. Brushless quads of this size are far more durable than any brushed quad. They take a beating. Or you might be one of those people who just zoom around and don’t crash much.


#50

As usual great advice @Denovich. I will need to talk to you when I finally get my BL builds going :wink: I have several Alien BL FC I have been working on. I always glean some useful info from your post so just want to say thank you for the knowledge you share.


#51

It’s easy helping fast learners… and I’m keen to see you get on brushless. So fire away when you are ready.


#52

Thanks @Denovich. I have been trying to get up to speed with the BL for about a year almost. Been doing lots of studying and psyching myself up for the transition. I have some F3 BL FC I have built that have built in PDB and an 8 bit one I got from @pedro147. I am looking forward to getting them completely built out on a frame but I also am super busy with work fortunately and unfortunately the past 2 weeks plus. I could have taken the easier route with the BL as I do have a Piko BLX and that I have had since they released that FC but I am obnoxiously stubborn and prefer to do this from scratch as they say. Also I just have been waiting for the AlienFlight to finally release BL designs. I have no excuse now so got to go on it. BL micro quads coming soon to my neighborhood!


#53

What is your target? 1103, 1304, 1407, 2205, 2207 (muwhahaha)?


#54

That’s quite the range, lol!


#55

Lol
:smile:


#56

I have at least one build with each + 2206. It’s like golf clubs, sometimes you need a driver, sometimes a putter. :slight_smile:


#57

I have a SOSx Micro BLX that is decked out with the 1103 7000kv racestar motors from BG and a brushless PedroWii 8 bit FC, and some 6a KingKong ESC. I also have some 1105 motors and 20A BLheli-s esc. I always have more on the bench than I can get to since I elected myself the FC repair guy for the community but the one build is half way done or better with the 1103 and I need to finish the wire loom and BEC for that since the 8 bit PW has no built in PDB. I have all the ESC soldered in and the wires are run for the loom just need to connect the voltage regulator and power in from battery on that. After that I have 6 F3 AlienFlight with built in PDB that I built and the next up will be the F4 AlienFlight with built in PDB. Also have a Piko BLX waiting. I have enough parts though for about 3 BL builds. More parts will be ordered soon so if you would like to suggest good matches for the ESC and motors, I am listening :wink:


#58

1304s, I think you’ll dig them. 10A 4-1 ESC.

Although 2207s…


#59

Holy smokes batman! haha That sucker was screaming! And good lord do not go down in them thickets! What size is the frame? What props, 3025? Seems those are pretty popular on the 135ish and smaller frames cut down if necessary. All the props I have at the moment are just the 3020.

Looks like the site software is telling me I should talk to some other people. Haha! I don’t think it knows as much as it thinks it does.


#60

Hey you guys im trying to TUne my HS1177 foxeer camera but I don’t know exactly how to power it to tune it just yet…

Do you think I could use my 7.4v fatshark battery and plug into the 12v DC IN plug to power the camera, then use an rca cable to plug into my TV to view the camera image? The camera runs off of 5-22w of power, so it should be fine to do it this way right?

Also should I soft mount of revo f4 FC for better noise control? Will start with betaflight then will head on over to raceflight eventually…