First brushless build, what a journey! Air Ro 4"


#21

Not @chrisdo, but the F4 is the current latest and greatest so you shouldn’t be out of date for a while. It just looks like it’s a pain to do certain things, like hook up a buzzer or LED strip. If you’re dead bent on getting a new FC (which frankly you don’t really need to do, unless no buzzer/LED is a deal breaker on this build), the Omnibus F3/F4 looks pretty good.

And yeah, that’s the basic concept. Make sure the correct ESC wires go to the correct pin on the flight controller. Don’t worry, it’s confusing for everyone at first, but when you inevitably go to build your next brushless build a few weeks/months down the line, it’ll be like second nature.


#22

thank you for the confidence, and thank you for getting me up to speed on current FC technology! I don’t nessecarily need a buzzer just yet and won’t ever need LEDs, So I won’t fret too much on that.

Before I actually do anything ill create a paint picture of where I think the wires should go, and If you guys give me the okay I will start the soldering!


#23

Okay you guys, how does this look?


#24

@quadlifepro: On your FC it says OUT1, OUT2, etc. I think you need to connect signal wires from ESC to OUT1-4, not OUT 3-6 (like you drew). On OUT1, you can connect positive, negative, and ESC1. OOUT 5-6 you would only need for a hexacopter (six motors).


#25

thank you, let me redraw to confirm. lol


#26

is this looking more accurate? @Brainstorm thank you for your help!


#27

Yes, that’s it.

Now you have to figure out which motor numbers match up between the firmware on your FC and the motors on your frame. In other words, M1-4 on FC may not necessarily match up 1-to-1 with S1-4 on ESC. Once you’ve connected this, you can test it with props off.


#28

Okay, so tonight i am going to go home and solder on those signal wires, and solder on the XT60 connector and at that point I should be able to plug in and hook up to cleanflight/betaflight to test motors and theoretically at that point it would be ready as a LOS quad?

I want to install FPV gear as well, but i am taking it all one step at a time. lol When I get to that step I’m sure you guys will hear me asking for help again! lol


#29

Maybe think about using xt30 connectors. Smaller and lighter.

For first power up with lipo I recommend to use a smoke stopper. This thing is easy to build and can prevent some (but not all) serious damage in case of a short somewhere.


#30

On my list to build, this winter will be brushless build season :smile:


#31

The Smoke Stopper is definitely a useful tool. Highly recommended. Except that I built mine with XT60 for the mini quads. :stuck_out_tongue: Really need to make a new one with XT30 connectors for the micro brushless builds. But of course, I’ve been putting it off. Maybe I’ll just make XT60-XT30 plug adapters.


#32

Good call 'bout adapters.
Just soldered some jst/xt30s some time ago for my q-carbon85 build.


#33

On the side of the FC that says RTF quads on it, should that side be facing up? Should I solder onto the side that says RTF quads?


#34

Don’t know that FC. But when you connect it to BF configurator you’ll see which side is meant to be up.
But you can mount it up in any way you like and set up board alignment in the configurator to get the virtual Quadcopter correctly aligned.
Hope that’s understandable in my humble English.


#35

I’m honestly kinda surprised no one makes them, especially with the increased popularity of micros and submicros.

Generally speaking, yeah it should be facing up, but since you can reorient the board in Cleanflight/Betaflight it’s not a hard requirement (my FC on my Owl is actually mounted upside down and rotated 45°). You can generally tell which way is up and front by looking on the board for a little arrow; the side it’s on is the top and the direction it points is the front of the quad. In your case, it’s on the other side of the board, so you might want to flip it.

As for which side to solder, that’s entirely up to you. Electrically speaking, it really doesn’t matter all too much, so long as the wire is actually soldered to the board. I’ve personally done it from both sides, depending on which is more convenient for me.


#36

Thank you for showing me this (smoke stopper)! it seems like an awesome little device to have laying around lol I will do my best to assemble one…

the apollo 130 frame came with the xt60 connector, and that’s all I have at the moment, but I am sure when I revise it and start trying to strip it down to bare bones in terms of weight I’ll probably make that switch.

Also no worries Chrisdo, your English is waaaay better than mine and that is my native language. ;p

@TheAppleFreak , and Chrisdol, thank you for explaining general rules of FC mounting.

I feel like I can that FC soldered up and mounted at this point…

Once that step is complete, I will solder on the receiver , (which seems to be easy)

and then hopefully i have a smokestopper by then, if not I will just plug up and hope for the best. :slight_smile:


#37

Okay you guys, tonight I just need to solder the signal wires on to the FC, solder the receiver to the FC, and then a power connector (using xt60 because that’s all I have for right now). I will power up and pray for no magic smoke.

I am going to leave the fpv gear off for now.

Tonight’s goal is to test the FC, ESCs, motors, receiver, and try to bind it to my dx6i. (all with the props off, of course.)

2moro nights goal will be to configure and ensure failsafes are all properly set up, and hopefully strap some props on and test her out she is she at least hovers…

quick question about the dx6i…

I have a vortex 250, can i just copy the same settings from vortex model and paste those settings into a new model for this build?I don’t know much about setting up my TX… I am thinking all the quads I have use 125% end points and whatnot though…


#38

Not very familiar with Spektrum transmitters, but if it’s anything like the Taranis yeah you should be able to do that easily. Duplicate the Vortex model, bind to the receiver on your new quad, and you should be good to go.


#39

Thanks for the advice! i was thinking it should work, but now I am more confident in it working. hopefully it works. :wink: lmao


#40

No problem! Worst case scenario, you just set it up again manually.