I can confirm you may connect battery and USB at same time.
From the pico manual.
Got me by seconds, my friend
@Chaotix that is amazing news to hear! edit: props off? Thanks for the super fast heads up!
I built my pico into a stealth frame. Love it.
can we see it? or is it that stealthy? lmao jm
EDit: just looked up that frame, looks like a sweet ride! looks really strong too!
Yes, it’s not the lightest of micros. The markers are sports Saucer cones, I tried lighting them up with LEDs and flying at night, with a different micro quad.
Not sure how well the IR cam is working.
Hey @giles just been setting up my PICO-B with the Hex addition, got everything mounted and apparently working, only to find that the board won’t power from the battery. It powers fine over USB and with both the battery and USB connected i can test the motors and they work but on battery alone i get no response from the board at all, Is it likely i’ve fried something? Visually i cant see anything burnt out. Can you point me to the component? Thanks
Your inductor, the component on the top side marked CC has been dislodged. It is about 45° out of line and appears to maybe be shorting nearby components. This is almost definitely the cause of your problem. Heat from soldering the other side to fit the hex adapter will have been the reason it moved. If you know anyone with a hot air rework station it’s an easy thing to sort out and hopefully won’t have damaged anything else.
Good spot @Chaotix. I have a hot air rework so i gave it a go. re positioned the inductor but still getting the same behavior. Looking at my desk i have a 2s lipo next to my 1s both with jst, now im wondering if i used the 2s at some point when motor testing. Visual inspection wise i cant see anything else, also manged to brown up a couple of the sockets, wish that kapton tape were here already.
Post another pic of the top of the board as clear as possible and let a few eyes have a look. Did you lift the inductor off and redo it?
Yep lifted completely to check for a short under and then repositioned.
Here you go @Chaotix, note the marshmallow looking sockets checked and im getting continuity across the inductor.
I see 2 items with possible damage.
I see on number 1 a mark, raised bit, circled. This is, I think a voltage regulator and could be damaged by over voltage. If the mark is a raised dimple it is probably damaged.
Number 2 has a similar raised dimple mark on it, this one is a transistor or mosfet and the mark indicates it’s probably failed.
Both could be replaced but we need @giles to give you the specs of those components.
I may be wrong with this diagnosis, just going on what I can see.
Thanks for all the help @Chaotix I’ve had a closer look and the dimples were a tiny bit of silicone conformal coating on #1 from coating the battery pads and a tiny remnant of flux on #2. So i’m none the wiser. Guess i’ll email @giles when i get a chance. In the mean time i hate to say it but the eachine hex board on BG is looking like the option at £8. Cant warrant springing another 40 quid or so
Once @giles appears we can find out more. If you are Europe based I could possibly repair it for you. One thing might be to remove the hex adapter and check function without.
I’m in the Uk @Chaotix I’m happy to attempt the repair myself i just need to source the components and know what they are. I can try and remove the hex adaptor n see, its a tricky one though as there are so many points securing it and I don’t want a repeat of the dislodged inductor.