Eachine AIO F3 Pro Brushed FC


#1

Has anyone had experience with these and what is the difference between the AIO F3 and the pro version?

AIOF3PRO_Brushed FLight-control Board Built-in OSD Receiver for Eachine BAT QX105 QX95S Vtail QX110


#2

I have three of this FC, sadly the Mosfets are weak. On all three boards the propps spin up when plugging in the lipo.
The reciever is not impressive either.
That being said, it still works and its good for builds when you need to keep the weight down.


#3

Yes, I have a leaky mosfet also right from the start. Motor plugs have to be removed because they are not standard motor plug sizes. No receiver issues and it’s based on Omnibus.
Stable board otherwise.


#4

I noticed this right off, much to my annoyance as I planned to use the motors off my toy quad because it was plug and play, or so I thought. I contemplated removing the ones on there and replacing with the ones on the spare toy fc but I am not so confident in my soldering skills.


#5

The mounts on this FC are surface mounted - standard ones have pins. Not really worth it.
Save yourself some weight and solder the wires directly. Requires much less soldering skills :slight_smile:


#6

Thank you for the heads up.

I’m waiting on a complete QX105 to be delivered but the photos look like the 1020 motors are designed for that FC and connectors.


#7

Correct
Never flown 1020 motors. Don’t know much about them. I’ve only used hardwired 8520s on this FC

Good luck!


#8

They are 10x20mm coreless and the reviews say the larger motor make us for the weight (around 72).


#9

An update

I received my QX105 in the mail on June 30th, had one successful 5 min indoor flight and on my first outdoor flight yesterday, I had a mild grass crash and the mosfet on the right rear motor connector burned out.

Apparently, this is a design flaw. Yesterday as I was told by another pilot with the same FC on a 90mm the same story tho his caught on fire.

Fortunately, I had a second FC on hand so we shall see how this one does.

On a side note, can the mosfet and plug be removed and still run the motor?


#10

If you’re handy with a soldering iron, you could replace all the MOSFETs with better rated ones so you don’t have to spend money replacing the FC in the future


#11

I’ve soldered two things successfully to date, don’t think that’s in my skill set yet.


#12

Let’s say I decide to scrub the fc, what would be a good replacement for the frame and motors?


#13

So, I contacted BG and they are sending me another FC (hoping they send the upgraded board.

new-vs-old-mosfet-on-eachine-qx110-flight-controller

So in the meantime, I have one I can work on replacing the burnt out part and another ready to go giving me 3 FC’s.

Found this article on the subject and found 100 replacements for under $10.

So if I get good at this, I may never need to be out of the air for long.


#14

And another bit the dust.

I got the spare board mounted and connected and 35 mins of flight and another fet blew.

So I got a refund on that one and I am still waiting on the replacement.

My next step is that I want to test the 8.5x20mm motors on the new board. To do that I needed to cut the connectors from the 10mm motors and splice them on the 8.5s I have now. I crossed my eyes and hoped for the best soldering such small wires. The result?

Now, for the board to get here.


#15

If you’re going to go through the trouble of splicing motor plugs/connectors - do yourself a favor - remove the silly, incompatible/proprietary connectors and just solder the wires directly to the FC.
Chances are that you will never use 10mm motors ever again - save yourself the weight (most important regarding micro quads) and lose the connectors.

If your don’t know how to solder - learn. It’s not difficult or rocket science, it just takes a little practice. It’s a wonderful skill to learn and in this hobby, it’s quite imperative that you know how to solder.


#16

I am working on the skill, so I don’t mind the splicing work for the moment, gives me practice. I will be ordering a soldering station tomorrow so I will have a better iron to work with to work on the smaller things.

It the moment I would likely overheat something if I tried to remove the connectors with what I have. Any pointers on how to remove them?


#17

Basically, you can gently break them off then clean up the area with a hot soldering iron. You won’t be able to salvage the sockets so don’t worry about them getting mangled - just pay particular attention to any surrounding components and don not disturb them.
I’d suggest you practice on a spare bad FC if you have one.

Soldering stations are nice - though a $3.99 soldering iron will also do the trick…

I’m sure there are tons of how-to solder videos in YT…


#18

Well, for the record, running the 8.5s give the board no issues.