E011 7mm Newcomer - Now hacked for acro


I break that annoying button off. Lol, but I’ve changed channels in crashes! Hahaha


I have a 75mm betafpv frame coming with some 7mm motors. What do you guys think? Should I pull my e011 from the wood frame or throw the H8mini board in it? Also where in the firmware can you change orientation. I may flip the flight controller over or with the H8 turn it 45 degrees.


Same result either way … only difference would be the tune between the 2 of them that is already loaded … but of course you can re tune. In the hardware.h file there is a gyro orientation section where you can uncomment commands to activate different orientations.

The only other tune for the e011 board I know is for a 6mm whoop. Soon (but not very soon) - I am going to try to do a video series on tuning silverware for acro only.


Thank you good sir!


Hey @NotFastEnuf, I’ve been following your posts both here and on rcgroups for a while now, it appears you’ve tuned it further since your latest “release” (the drive link in this thread). Is there anywhere I can find your latest firmware+tune?


I’m pretty sure the link here is the same as the last video I posted. I’ve been updating it. Have you tried that file and are not getting the same performance?


I just checked my latest file - the only thing Ive done is overclock the processor since my release here. I still consider that experimental and unnecessary to acro only.


Whaddya mean by this, @NotFastEnuf? I was missing air mode on mine last night.


You need to set devo throttle throttle travel from -78 to 100. I know I told you linear control, sorry. This was outlined earlier in the thread. I use a 2 position switch - one position is dead band at -100 and the other is idle up. Does that make sense?


In other words, on one switch position - you scale throttle down and gradually move it up so the lowest throttle point Intersects at -78 and the highest is +100

On the other position it’s throttle kill


Interesting, and that acts like air mode, giving throttle authority at “zero” throttle…? I’ve gotta mull that over and get that in my head. I thought things were more dynamically handled than simply shifting the bottom of the throttle range, or is this technique just an approximation of “air mode” since it’s not in firmware?


I can explain the difference … but it may work to just say it’s close enough. Your call.


Well, I’d love to know the difference, but you’re talking about a general technique that’s applicable to any quad tune, right?

Is this what you’re talking about? http://kiss.flyduino.net/dwkb/air-mode-and-idle-up-switch/

I don’t wanna burn your time on stuff I can get elsewhere, and many thanks for pointing me to something (else!) new.


That is the configuration yes… but here is the difference as I remember it:

The pid controller at very low throttle can only move below the set throttle position by the “elbow room” it has to zero. In beta flight the elbow room to zero becomes a matching limit on any requests made above the actual throttle position to keep things in balance. With air mode activated - the pid controller can increase a throttle command without this limitation. Essentially this gives the pid controller just a hair more authority with a true air mode than it has with only an idle up. This is why idle up is less likely to bounce on landings than airmode in betaflight. But airmode has more authority than idle up at zero stick in the air.

In silverware, the pid controller functions differently - closer to a true air mode with only an idle up switch.


Far out, thanks for the explanation. That, er, explains a lot.


@burtlo OK so I was a little bit off but close … I went back and found an ancient Bardwell video where I remember learning “my flawed interpretation” from. This video is so old he does not even overstate his name and the you are going to learn something today… lol. Enjoy a better explanation

And yes … it’s only a year old but things change faster than we can get stuff delivered from China … so that’s a long time.


I had a hit on a miss-calculated flip and then noticed a rattle…and out came one of those switches…No Channel Change and no flip…so I guess I’ll find out which one next time I change motors…canopy didn’t even dent! :smiley:


Here’s a video for beginners, doing small hardware mods for the purpose of adding a camera and/or flashing the Silverxxx acro firmware:

Thanks to all here for providing so much information. Y’all made this video possible, especially @NotFastEnuf.


Great job man! That will help a lot of people!


I hope so, something simple, new, yet progressive. It was also practice for creating more videos like that in the future.