E011 7mm Newcomer - Now hacked for acro


Thank you so much man for the late night help. Where is your PayPal let me donate! Lol all channels
Seems to work the right way(held
The drone and tested) I played with the trims a ton and got it to Chill with dB-100 and trim settings dialed down but still no resolution trying to fly it’s just like 0 or 100. something is not right. I think I need to order an 011 maybe it’s this Santa whoop that’s jacked up.
Or i don’t even know!! I used to flash h8 minis all day and rip them all day on silverwaRe. I’ll wait for Jb to chime in now maybe he had a solutions thanks
Brotha I’ll keep you updated.


Hey guys, always great to see @NotFastEnuf helping in his natural habitat. That’s a great tip salvaging crystals from the transmitters btw. I’ll try to do my part, although all I had to change was the channel order for it to work. This is what it looks like:

What does yours look like?
I also reversed ch5 so it arms with the switch up instead of down but that’s not important. Throttle is supposed to be -100, either your channel order is different, or channel is reversed. Travis questions above should help diagnose that. It could also simply be the idle up speed causing it to rise, I had that same issue but it’s fine after adding FPV camera and canopy. The pids are really high and it’s a powerful little guy. There is also a setting for the idle speed but first try to figure out what the throttle channel is, what value it is set at and wether it’s full throttle or just idle up.


I suspect you have not added a camera yet and that is your issue. To go into detail on why that is an issue - as with all things that fly many compromises have been made. If i am right that you have not added a camera - the following us causing your problem. I selected a certain motor curve in software. This amplifies the response of the pids in certain areas of the throttle. The 24khz that is my “default” amplifies pid response in the lower portion of the throttle. This helps significantly increase stability in the moments we are recovering from a flip or dropping below hover throttle percent during aggressive flying. Many quads suffer from bobbles when you “pump” the throttle. I used this feature to add stability in the lower portion of the throttle band and have a different feature/setting added in that provides some extra stability in the upper portion as well. Without a camera the hover point is very low on the stick and you are attempting to hover right in the middle of an area that I have “cranked up” to help with added fpv camera weight. Result - to the moon!

To fix this for flying without a camera - go into config.h - change the motor curve selection from 24khz boldclash selection to the none selection by changing the comments (//). That will help ALOT. Then I would drop P and D for roll and pitch equally by 1 point at a time to reign in that last bit of oscillation. I suspect no more than 2 to 3 points off would put the final touch on it… motor curve none will fix the bulk of it.

Alternatively - leave my default tune for FPV as is - slap a camera on it and your hover point will be higher. The area of throttle that “runs away” with no camera will now be below hover point and will feel normal as that increased gain helps control the increased camera weight at the lower throttle positions during flight.

Finally - do check your props for any bends or imbalances. Checking whoop prop balance is easy. Hold a motor can between your finger tips and blow hard on the prop to spin it up. Pay attention to sound and feel. You can both feel a vibration in your fingertips that is inconsistent with the other motors and hear a difference. I know we just threw alot at you … but report back with as many specific responses to our input as you can and we will have tweaked in no time!


Thank you for that expensive write up! Man the help on here is amazing. Appreciate the response @JBFPV my setup looked like that but I needed to change to channel 6 to get motors going as it sits right now. Maybe I have wrong firmware? Unfortunately l do have a camera mounted haha I do see what your saying tho maybe I should try that fix anyway? I’m at 24g without a battery, mmw 7x16 motors same as JB setup. Maybe I need to tone the tune down for the motors? If I set up a switch for arm ch6 and make my throttle curve -100 then go to my trims and lower the mid from 1500 to like 1250-1300 on the radio it will give me a very slow idle or I can get the props to stop. That gives me some flyabiliy but the resolution is gone and it will still take off. Maybe I flashed something wrong in the firmware. Puzzling, I’ve done a ton of minih8s in the past with silver no problems. Probably user error here lol let me post a quick video and pictures of what’s going on. Thank you again!!


I suspected you did not have a camera. You have not done anything wrong. Just follow these instructions exactly and it will fly perfectly. If you have any questions about how to make these changes - just ask.


Ya I do have a camera on, I’ll try these settings now. Thank you!!


Success!! I knew I was doing something wrong, thank you guy so much for all the help I wouldn’t have figured it out.

I decided to scrap the model in my Taranis I was using, and started fresh for the heck of it. Named it exactly like @JBFPV has in his picture. This now started arming on channel 5 although the channel 6 “mode” doesn’t work, but I can switch with right right down etc. so that’s fine! It now idles properly, and flies perfect from preliminary tests. You guys rock!!! Thanks so much for all the help. I’m going to make another one for LOS now that I know about the changes to make as well! :metal:


Fantastic news. @JBFPV also had to make a new model if I recall. Or maybe it was @mike-heli. Lol. There are so many of us on the e011 train now… :smile:


Yea it’s very strange, but it worked lol. The E011 is where it’s at! You have this thing dialed, loving it!


Yes that was me, I did create a new model because I couldn’t get it working on the model used for the stock firmware and wasn’t sure what I had done to that model so I figured I’d start fresh. Strange.

@Kronfpv You are right about the ch6 mode doesn’t do anything, I put it in there for testing purposes. Great to hear you are up in the air! :slight_smile:


NFE “I feel that I have actually got it flying better than I could with a betaflight board.” :smile:

I could not have agreed with you a year ago, after flying Betaflight Whoops only for that year, after one battery with the E011 silverised board I now know better.

NFE “Maybe I should start looking into the actual betaflight code and make my own custom mix there as well.”

For sure man; it needs it.


Now that my 65mm whoop FC is dying, I may jump on the acro E011 bandwagon. Just a couple questions before I get started.

  1. Where is a good/cheap STM32 dongle I can buy?

  2. Has anyone tested out a good/cheap TX module that will let me use my Taranis with the E011?

  3. Where can I get decent/cheap 0716 motors (I saw some $4 for 10 on ebay, but do they suck)? Most stores seem to have them really expensive right now… Also, do the MMW 0716 really last a year?

  4. What’s your estimate on the E011 flight time and thrust to weight ratio?




  1. I got my stlink v2 of ebay for a couple bucks. Actually on my second one. First one died of unknown causes. Lol
  2. I fly a devo but stick to a multimodule that has PA on the nrf module for range
  3. IMHO decent and cheap are almost always mutually exclusive terms for any moving parts (that can be applied to most things in life - lol). My MMW motors lasted a long time - maybe it wasn’t a year but it is significantly longer than the few weeks that the boldclash motors last me before they have issues.
  4. No idea on thrust to weight - it’s still just a whoop. 716 motors are great but not a miracle. My flight times with the stock 260 packs average about 3 minutes.

I’m curious about the 617 motors that MMW has - they look like they outperform the 716!!!



Ok what taranis you use? If you can use the …iRangeX IRX4 2.4G CC2500 NRF24L01 A7105 CYRF6936 4 IN 1 Multiprotocol STM32 TX Module With Case.
I just got done flashing my radio to erx9 and with this module my range has trippled from stock or the other module i was using. Hope this helps oh and it binds great to e011 and many others.


I’m using a Taranis QX7.

Thanks. I’ll check out that module.


Wow how do I get my hands on tone of those sweet frames of yours???


Pm me, we’ll go over what version fits you best and get ya hooked up. And thanks man!


I don’t seem to have that option!?:thinking:


I sent you one


I am glad I found the explanation about the throttle curve settings!
I have been trying to figure out why the Boss 7 (without camera) was shooting to the ceiling.
Thanks NFE!