Micro Motor Community

E011 7mm Newcomer - Now hacked for acro


Batteries are not all the same, to the point where it’s kind of ridiculous. Like the same batteries aren’t the same… As mentioned by @Canino

And some are, umm, just big boned😓

Or kind of slim…

But the majority came in at between 8.55 and 8.6g.


Well no matter if it’s a fat one or a skinny one… don’t fall for the 45c option. I don’t believe it’s really 260mah. Probably closer to 240. I only get 3:30 runtime out of them compared to the oversized 30c which gives 4:30 and is probably more like a 300 mah. Weight on the 45c batteries is consistent though and they don’t puff as fast as the 30c ones.
Funny how we spend hours contemplating specs for potential builds before making a calculated decision … and most of these specs are just pulled out of a hat.

260mah 30c spec … really means:
Once we made made a battery that was 260mah, 7g, and had a 30 c discharge. Then we made a sticker and a spec sheet… then we made 4 million more that could be absolutely anything but they will have that sricker. It’s our own fault really. We defined the way they need to play the game by scrounging for coupon codes, waiting for flash sales, and expecting everything to be sold to us for less than the cost of shipping… with free shipping. :smile:


I have two packs that look identical, one says 1300mAh 95c and the other days 1800mAh 55c. Same weight, same size.
Interestingly, they really are about the rated capacity.

Battery volume can be used for C or mAh, but not exactly both. The 45c definitely seem to be higher C, but that makes sense that it comes at the cost is more weight for s given mAh.

I doubt they’re 45c OR 260mAh of course, nor are the 260mAh 30c likely to be either thing, but higher C on a given mAh will weigh more just like more mAh at a given c will.


I plead guilty :persevere:
I had good results with the 45c 150mahs on 6mm whoops, so i ordered a pack of the 45c 260mahs. Arent they zippy?


They aren’t bad packs. I’m not unhappy with them. Just know what you’re getting. I am guessing the 45c is really a 240 mah and the 30c is really a 300 mah.


Yea, they are all pretty good in their own right, especially for the price. I haven’t tryed the bigger 45c batteries, but the 260mah 30c batteries are great for just tooling around the house(checking the status of laundry cycles, following the cat around :grin:). The bigger 30c’s punch sounds just as good(RPM wise) as the 150mah 45c but the 3.5-4gram difference between the two is seriously a big deal on a whoop. Unfortunately with current lipos you still have to sacrifice flight time for ultimate performance. It just comes down to what kind of flying you want to do.


Ok - so I’m getting ready to jump in the hacked E011 arena and just wanted to know - never having seen one

  • is it an f1 or f3 controller
  • what gyro MPU6500?
  • Fet current handling
  • handles 8.5mm motors?
  • RX latency vs DSMX 11msec
  • Are any of these questions even relevant?

Just curious what this guy is capable of.



It’s an F0 processor at 48mhz, some unknown Chinese clone of a 6500 gyro (I think), runs a loop at 1khz (I have been able to get 2khz with overclocking and ignoring the accelerometer - but haven’t sorted out filtering and tuning needed for that yet), latency of the onboard xn297l radio chip is a non issue and it is capable of telemetry. Fets take everything I have thrown at them including oversized motors and an abusive flying/crashing style. No issues there.


There will be a dedicated Silverware fc for brushless initially, in 16x16 mounting pattern fairly soon. It’ll be self build but there may be some about for reasonable cost too. It will have F0 processor, mpu6050, and nrf rx. Obviously it’ll be non clone parts on any I build :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:


Hey guys I hope you can help. I have the Santa whoop e011c. I am using the Taranis, and cheap 9$ multiprotocol module. I decided to flash the silverware firmware. I followed the tutorial on here for changing the lines for the Santa whoop file. Everything flashed successfully, and I am able to get my Taranis to bind (led goes solid).

I created a switch for arming on channel 5. I changed DEVO to MULTI on the line suggested as well or should I change back to DEVO?

PROBLEM: is the motors will not spin up. It binds but I do not get any motor response when I throttle up. What am I missing?


Has to be that “arm/idle up” channel. Maybe the wrong one assigned in your tx. I’m pretty sure you have to have a devo radio do use the devo channel assignment. All the other multimodules use the multi prefix. Maybe @JBFPV can help? Pretty sure your setup sounds like his. I use a devo myself so I’m not much help. This is the file I gave him to flash and he got his working


Awesome thank you for the quick response! I actually got all this thanks to Jbees sweet videos! Haha I will try to flash that file and see if it works for me. Thank you!!

Edit: it could be the wrong channel that is something i was thinking. My stock tx binds as well but also does not have motor response when i throttle up.


should I flash dual mode notfastenuf or the silverware?


Yeah, that idle up channel would have to be assigned to ch_flip or something like that for the flip button to arm it as an example on a stock tx. I’ve not really messed with my stock tx ever. I just unsolder the crystals out of them so i have spares to solder on the fc when I break them, scavenge the radio chip, scavenge the buzzer, then toss the rest away. Lol. I’m sure JBFPV will chime in when he sees the tag and let you know what actual channel it is in your radio. One more thing… I can’t remember if I assigned the flip channel to ch_off or not… but that would be a good idea if I missed it so you don’t accidentally turn on a channel that activated the silly stock preprogrammed flip. Hehe


The dual mode NFE is just a shortcut to the project named silverware. Avoid acro_only if I left it in there. It has an audible low pwm feedback I’m the motors.


Lol ahhh I gotcha ya I won’t mess with the stock TX then! That’s a good idea to take the crystals out I have quite a few lol

I’ll wait for JBFPV to let me know what channel he uses and not set it to flip accidently lol. I am in the process of flashing the other firmware you linked to see if I can have any luck!!

Once again you are amazing man thanks so much for the help!! :pray:


Well no luck still. Get it to bind just fine, and I can change modes with the pitch stick fine with right right down or left left down. But no response from motors. It has to be the way I’m setting up the arm switch.


A dude commenting on my youtube channel just flashed his with the same file and said arming on his Taranis is on channel 6 in the tx with the software set to ch_5


You are the man,l!! so that actually got my motors spinning!! BUT Now when I ARM the motors spin up too fast and it shoots up into the air hitting my ceiling lol what am I missing lol almost there!


Hmm, either throttle channel is reversed in your TX (or needs to be reversed)… or maybe you have a bad prop with a bent blade that is causing a vibration which is causing a throttle runaway, or you don’t have a camera installed on it yet and this tune is for the added weight of FPV gear (in which case I can recommend some changes), or you have really bad luck and have the 1 out of 1000 that just doesn’t like all the changes I made. It is a razors edge tune with minimal filtering. Could be a whole host of things. I listed them in the order of things I would check. If throttle is not reversed - maybe it is also not mapped to the right channel.

Is it full throttle?.. or just spinning too fast? Does throttle go down if you push your throttle stick up? Does it sound like an oscillation (fluttering sound)? Keep me posted - we will get it sorted out. I’ll be back on here tomorrow at some point to check on you.

The sun should be rising on @JBFPV side of the world soon … hopefully he can provide some guidance for your tx setup.