I didn’t post yet because …
Short story: I am second guessing the entire setup
Long story: …here goes… it started when I recently killed my fpv camera. I took it off to fly line of sight and some flight conditions are becoming evident. Of course the pids are a little high trying to fly LOS without the camera weight but there is another oscillation that is showing through which is a settings & config problem. Recently, silverxxx figured out the e011 is missing some pull up resistors needed to accurately bit bang the i2c gyro with software. He added a code fix for this and some new filtering options. In the past I had recognized poor software i2c performance and reverted to using hardware based i2c in the code. So I was excited to try out the fix. I was able to get really close and with the weight of a fpv camera on board dulling things down a bit - it actually flew deceivingly good as you may have noticed in @JBFPV recent e011 video. For some odd reason now it was dual mode code that flew well and acro only wouldn’t tune. Anyway, I experimented this morning with going back to hardware i2c and my old filter settings. Dual mode flew the same LOS - still some runaway tendencies. I then went back to acro only and bingo! Line of sight was behaving properly. I want to test a little more before I put a camera on… and see if it’s possible to get a dual mode code working on LOS rigs. Then add camera and test more.
… it’s gonna be a while longer
I didn’t post yet because …
Ok… I’m not sure I’ve ever mentioned this before … but the e011 has been the most frustrating and time consuming quad I have ever had my hands on. It’s just so inconsistent. Now I can’t replicate the conditions described above … but I did destroy 1 set of motors, all my props, and a flight controller testing today. So I’m done. I’ll post my dual mode files and leave well enough alone. I’ll also include suggestions for alternate setups that I have tested and can’t sort out cause I destroy stuff faster than I can draw conclusions. Lol
NOTES (yes read these!!)
-Flash the project named silverware - NOT acro_only (acro only doesn’t fly as well on current settings)
-Arm/Idle up is set up on DEVO channel 5 - change the word DEVO to MULTI if you are not using a devo radio (config.h line 173)
-Throttle transient compensation is off. Turn it on if you want the throttle to feel more “poppy” like a brushless craft (config.h line 152)
-6mm pids are in the pid.c file but commented out. If you want to build a 6mm whoop with the e011 fc - comment out the 7mm pids, uncomment the 6mm pids, change the pwm rate to 32000 (config.h line 139) and change the motor curve to 32khz (config.h, line 137)
-motor curve none has also occasionally worked out well and may solve an oscillation problem if you have one
Alternate setup - if for whatever reason the above configurations don’t fly well for you: Make ALL of the following changes and flash the acro only project instead of dual mode:
-In hardware.h - change to hardware i2c (line 57) and select fast2 (line 72)
-In config.h - comment out the motor filter (line 131), select the soft 2nd 43hz filter (line 74), select motor curve none (line 144)
Have fun! I pass on the torch.
Well we all thank you for all the effort and work you put into it. Great job.
How much of a difference is line 152.
Line 152 - throttle transient compensation
Without a camera on it - it’s a big difference and I like it on.
Didn’t get to test with a camera today - hard to say if it will feel better under fpv or not. I’d say try it out and report back if you like it!
Thank you so much @NotFastEnuf! Do you have another go-to brushed setup that does behave better/more consistently?
Also, have you experimented with indoor brushless whoops? Have you found any brushless setup you like for indoors?
I don’t unfortunately. And the e011 seems to punch harder than any other fc I have tried. The inconsistencies come from the subtle indications of a not quite perfect tune seemingly presenting themselves on either side of a change somewhat randomly. Example… change filter from a to b… get an oscillation. Change back to a… oscillation remains. Change back to b… oscillation gone. Scratch head and change back to a… oscillation gone. Curse and change back to b… oscillation is back. Crash… all indicators then change the way they present. Curse again. Flash again… everything oscillates. Something is now broken in the code because of human error from messing with it too much. Look for the problem… give up. Sigh. Start again from a fresh known good file. Repeat all the above steps.
I was getting somewhere yesterday till I flew into my fan. That completely threw off everything. I tried new motors and props and couldn’t find my indicators again. Anyway… once I settle on a tune - it will be good enough that inconsistencies will not present through the life of the tune. It’s just inconsistencies in the tuning process that are so frustrating. Every conclusion I have ever come to about a “magic bullet” change based on some condition being fixed has inevitably reversed itself at some point. This is just one where “close enough” has to do. I think the tune I posted above is “close enough” but if for whatever reason it doesn’t work on some other e011 half way across the world … the post with the tune outlines everything I would first try to make a correction.
I also haven’t gotten into brushless indoor crafts. Most of the reports I’ve found of 0703 motors seem to indicate they are even more fragile than our brushed motors. I am tempted to try and have acquired a 1s esc… but I’m hung up on motor selection. When I do try… it will be with an e011 fc.
I tested throttle transient last night with fpv… I dont think I like it. If you jam a few throttle blips back to back… it can accentuate any thrust imbalances in the motors making the video bobble a tiny bit. I think fpv looks cleaner more locked with it off. But LOS is definitely more fun with it on.
Sweet you saved me time lol well maybe one ill set up strictly for line of sight
The santawhoop flash settings (jjrc h67/eachine e011c)
Hello. I recently received new motors for my E011. I was excited to think that maybe I would finally get the kind of performance I saw in one of @NotFastEnuf 's videos. I was disappointed after the first test flight. I still need about 80% throttle for the quad to simply hover (LOS). You can imagine how miserable punch outs are. It takes like 10 seconds for it to go from the ground to the ceiling (10ft). My Furibee F36 could do it in like 1.5 seconds!
Now my flights are only 40 seconds long before the quad barely has enough power to hover at 100% throttle and any yaw or roll movement causes it to fall quickly. My gut reaction was to think the batteries were old since I’m using 150mAh 6 month old lipo along with the stock 3 week old battery. But the same happens on all batteries. Maybe I just got a defective unit. I will never know because I just ordered 5 Furibee’s. I won’t get to fly Acro but at least I’ll have a reliable and powerful indoor LOS and FPV flyer. I’m done too.
Check motor direction and connectors.
Maske sure the new motors turn well and are not damaged during trasport.
I replaced the only two motors that were damaged. When I initially did it, the quadcopter did dip towards the new motors which, I think, means the new ones are of lower quality but flight times were normal.
I just tested two cycles of three batteries and flight times for all three are about 5 seconds before the quadcopter begins falling at full throttle and after that, the quadcopter can’t fly above 2 inches off the ground. Maybe something happened to the ESCs (if there even are any in brushed quads) in a crash or something. Very frustrated. I guess I will make one last attempt and replace the remaining two motores with the same kind to see if that makes a difference.
I never use different brand/model motors in a quad. And when i replace motors i replace all. Then when i have 4 used motors i use those togheter because one motor having low performance will force the rest to work at lower performance to compensate.
I hope it will help when you replace the last two.
If not, but some MMW motors and you will be happy.
Still i would check motor direction, sounds alot like a bad motor or motors turning the wrong way.
I just changed all motors to the same new motors I ordered. I still get 5 second flight and then it barely hovers just above the ground.
Can you verify that brushed motors are reversible like brushless motors are just by swapping the wires (polarity)? All my new motors have blue/red wires. None have black/white ones so I just reversed the polarity when I soldered them to the flight controller.
Oh… Are you sure there is both CW and CCW motors and not only one kind in there?
Sounds like you are using only CW motors for all four.
Check with the seller and product discription.
It wont work to use reversed CW as CCW, that will kill the motor really fast!
Yeah that is not even close to right, you might want to talk with NFE , hes very knowledgeable with theese quads, i know mine hover around 1/4 throttle to almost half, you definitely have a issue take a video of it hovering if you can and post. Also you might of already did this but what radio are you using what battery and is it stock or has the fc neen flashed the more info the easier we can help…
@David - I am sorry to hear of your frustrations. Our hobby can be taxing on the patience at times. Brushed motors are NOT reversible. You can force one to run backwards by swapping the wires - but it is a bit like petting a snake from tail to head against its scales. The brushes internally are constructed specifically to only spin one direction. Rpm rating is also quite important as these motors are available in quite a large range in the aftermarket. It is best to change them as a matched set if you want it to fly the best it can.
It would seem as all your batteries work fine in your other craft - your problem comes down to not having the correct motors for an e011. Replace them with the proper motors for either an e011 or a bwhoop b03 and you should be fine. Bwhoop b03 motors are all over ebay for less than 5$ a set here in the US. I’ve purchased 4 sets in the last few weeks. Better yet are the mmw replacements - mine lasted almost a whole year. That’s pretty good. Either way - with the correct motors your task will be near effortless. White/black wires get plugged in to right front & left rear. Blue/red motors get plugged into left front & right rear… and job done. Keep us posted.
Also quality lipos are necessary. Some of my “high rate” lipos seem to sag a bit and its more noticable on better motors than stock. Its a bit off a hit and miss
I also still use a couple of the stock e011 lipos and altho they’re only 30c some of them still work good and still are punchy and others came a bit lame out of the box.
The one below is with boldclash 19000 motors, cant say if they’re as fast or faster than MMW tho as i never tried those motors…
A Christmas Crash Carol…
Nice edit man!!! I enjoyed that!