Micro Motor Community

E011 7mm Newcomer - Now hacked for acro


9 packs after (hard flying, gravel in the ground)… One broken strut, scratches everywhere. Camera is too exposed to crashes, because it didn’t fit in the mount that i had to cut, it fitted a little bit more towards the front, and attached to the canopy. I think e011 frame is way more durable, but you know where talking about little pieces of plastic, so nothing will last forever. I’ll upload some dvr footage as soon as i can


Thank you for the video! Working on getting one of these setup. The parts are on the way so that I can reflash with silverware. I was just wondering where you can find those micro connectors to solder onto the board?


I believe those are 1.25mm JST connectors. Here are some 4-pin:



I received a couple x-racer frames and one of the fc combos made to them. the camera that comes with the combo fits fine btw. anywho after I got my modes setup and saved, whenever I plugged in a battery motor 3 would spin, regardless of whether the thing was armed or not. I’m new to all of this so I not sure if that is indicative of a hardware issue or not. i tried flashed the latest aff3 firmware and the problem persisted. after 4 or 5 reconnections the usb the port pulled off the board. hopefully I can get a replacement but in the meantime waiting on another beebrain so i can get it up in the air. really want to try the 0716s.


The spinning motor issue is very common. In my case, i had one fc with this problem, it was a damaged mosfet. No problem when asked for a replacement. If you’re new to electronics (as i am) just ask for a replacement. 0716 motor are just great for this class of micros. Hope you can fly soon


Brushed motors spinning when they shouldn’t (disarmed, on battery plug-in, etc) is generally a toasted MOSFET. They’re not too terrible to replace, but is definitely something the warranty should cover.


This is what happened to my first x-racer frame after 20 packs


CAN I SCREAM! Wow man, not much left of those struts :stuck_out_tongue:

Definitely going to do some reinforcment on the frame before flying. I definitely prefer a slightly heavier and rigid frame vs a very flexy/sloppy one that doesn’t break. Great flying!


Right now i’ve plenty of spare frames for it… and i just wanted to fly wild. I did… hehe

It would be nice to know how your reinforcement looks and works. Experiment with it and please share your experience!


I have finally jumped on the E011 train.
I had a bit of a challenge getting the silverware firmware up and running on linux so I’ll drop the procedure here for the old googlebots and anyone else in my situation.
All these steps may not be absolutely necessary, but this is what worked for me:

  • Solder a 3 pin connector to the GND, DAT, and CLK pads on the bottom of the board and route the pins out the back like so:
  • Connect The STLINK flasher as so:
    • STLINK GND -> E011 GND
    • STLINK SWCLK -> E011 DAT
    • STLINK SWDIO -> E011 CLK
  • Install all the things:
    apt-get install git build-essential gcc-arm-none-eabi libnewlib-arm-none-eabi openocd
  • Plug in the STLINK to USB, wait a few seconds.
  • Plug in the lipo to the E011
  • Unlock the FC (necessary before initial flash only) with the following command:
openocd -f /usr/share/openocd/scripts/interface/stlink-v2.cfg -f /usr/share/openocd/scripts/target/stm32f0x.cfg -c init -c "reset halt" -c "stm32f0x unlock 0" -c "reset run" -c shutdown
  • Power cycle the FC (unplug lipo, unplug usb, plug in usb, plug in lipo)
  • Download the zip or clone the git repo and cd to the directory that contains the binary
  • Flash dem silvers (replace bwhoop with whatever the binary filename is):
openocd -f /usr/share/openocd/scripts/interface/stlink-v2.cfg -f /usr/share/openocd/scripts/target/stm32f0x.cfg -c init -c "reset halt" -c "flash write_image erase bwhoop 0x08000000" -c "verify_image bwhoop 0x08000000" -c "reset run" -c shutdown


Now that I finally got it setup, I have a few questions.

  1. How does arming work? Mine is always armed. Does AUX 1 high arm?
  2. I’m having a lot of trouble with low end throttle control. I’m used to airmode and set up an idle up switch, but I am finding it hard to find a good cutoff threshold. It’s either motors off at zero throttle, or a little bit too powerful making it difficult to descend/hover. What are you guys doing to make the low end throttle more manageable? I’ve never thrown with expo on throttle but that may be necessary here. Is there throttle expo in the code or does this curve need to be setup in the TX alongside the idle up?

Thanks @NotFastEnuf for the awesome work!


That’s on OSX or Linux? Nice writeup, thanks!


Linux, Ubuntu 16.04


I applaud you, sir


If the FC sees the TX, it’s armed. No such thing as arm/disarm as far as I can tell.
I used 15% for idle up on my 7e, it’s decent, but adding s throttle curve as well makes things nicer.


I’m at a loss. I’ve done the s-curve and it really doesn’t help at all. As soon as I give it enough throttle input to get the motors spinning, the quad starts to gain altitude. Can’t get it to hover. It’s not exactly rocketshipping into space, but it’s basically binary. Motors not spinning and quad drops out of the sky, or motors start to spin and quad climbs.
Needless to say this isn’t flyable for me indoors.
Could it be noise causing some kind of feedback loop in the PID controller? I don’t see any oscillation though, just :up: :up: :up: :airplane:
Any ideas @NotFastEnuf?


Could be vibration related. Check for a bent prop - if the fc doesn’t like the tune (too much derivative) then it tries to fly away. Also - if you are running without fpv gear - it basically idles with enough power to climb. It looks like you are running a lighter battery than stock too. I couldn’t see if you’ve added a camera. I remember it was climb or drop before I added fpv gear (that’s the real reason they added the Lego figure - to weigh it down). If you already have a camera on it - then we need to change the filtering or the tune if you don’t have any bent propellers.


Also the tune is set up for the weight of fpv gear - I can suggest some alternate pids if you are running los.


Yeah los with the silverware NotFastEnuf put together doesn’t work very well, lots of bouncing around.
Add a camera and it’s great though.


These are the pids I use for 6mm:
p = {19.5e-2 , 19.5e-2 , 7.5e-1 };
i = { 14e-1 , 15e-1 , 13e-1 };
d = { 6.9e-1 , 6.9e-1 , 5.5e-1 };

I have also flown them los 6mm. They are a bit more conservative and may do better for 7mm los.


Definitely an FPV setup. What are good target weights? At 32.47g w/ a 230 mAh lipo, it hardly seems like a lightweight.