Burt's Micro Brushless Build -- Atom Mini 83 + Eachine Cube + DYS1104

Journaling the build here.

Had the frame and motors. Received the cube today. Pics of all three pieces:

I’m thinking I want to shave down the standoffs where possible. I know I don’t need this much space between the frame and the first board. I had thought of putting the receiver+buzzer on bottom, with buzzer facing down, but the buzzer is actually taller than the standoffs, so I’m relegating the buzzer to the top of the stack.

My proposed stack order, which is the default shown in the product pages. I tried to arrange things myself before looking at the page, wondering how best to orient and align things.

With the high failure rate of components that I’ve had from Banggood, I want to build this out with as little locked down, such that I can power up and test things before tightening screws.

More as it comes.


Reference materials found here: http://forum.banggood.com/forum-topic-295968.html

Ok, first here is the Link to the ESC "Manual"

Here is the Link for the FC + OSD

DSM2/DSMX Receiver link

FrSky Receiver

Flysky receiver


this is great news.
my cube comes tomorrow.
ill be watching this thread closely as a friendly guide.
thanks B!

i appreciate how thorough your info and conveyance methods are.
"its poetry in motion."


You could also use the nuts instead of the standoffs, should push the bottom layer closer to frame. Looks like a fun build. Interested to see how it turns out.

@burtlo: I’ll be watching as well! The Eachine Cube looks perfectly matched for the Micro Atom. :smiley:

That said, I’m still sitting on a pile of Piko BLX (original and BG clones) and 10A and 6A 4-in-1 ESCs (Cicada and BG). So I’ll have to use those up before I even think about buying an Eachine Cube. :pensive:

One thing I have been wondering about, and you kinda touched on it about testing before final assembly… The kit comes with header pins, but it doesn’t come with female sockets. If you need to take it apart after its complete, its going to be a nightmare with both sides of the header pins soldered. Are you going to use the header pins or connect the layers with wire?

Thanks for the support, all.

Yeah, so the point of journalling is documenting the good AND the bad. Already having challenges…

So I was eager to try something, but then ended up with some trouble on my ESC due to the small soldering jobs.

Like I said, I wanted to set up a test bed before mounting all on the frame, so I did this to a spare cutting board, mounting the motors with three holes per motor in the board:

Then, following instructions from the ESC manual, I tried soldering the the ESC to the LC-Power filter, then to the FC.

Getting two wires onto a pad has been a challenge. I put solder on the pad, then tried a couple times to get the two wires on there. I guess I put too much solder down and ended up getting some on the components between the two pads. I did my best to remove the solder, but I’m not sure I got it back to good. Also worried I lifted the pads a bit.

That was all last night. Here are pics after I discovered the issue:

Before cleanup:

After cleanup:

p.s. I had ordered a second mini ESC separately for a different build, and also in case I screwed the pooch, so I’m not dead in the water. :slight_smile:

Boy oh boy, @burtlo! That looks like a challenge, although your cleanup seems clean. Will it not fire up anymore?

Two thoughts come to mind, even though I have yet to practice both myself. First, flux is your friend. Religiously apply flux to pads before soldering. I suspect this would be particularly helpful on a tiny, cramped board.

Second, maybe you could use Kapton tape to mask off components. I’ve only used Kapton tape to insulate components from CF. However, I’ve read about people using Kapton as a mask for soldering tiny SMD components. Need to try this myself.

PS: Better to screw the pooch than the pooch screw you. :stuck_out_tongue:

Ah, great tips, thanks. I do have Kapton tape, in prep for my Devo 7e 4-in-1 mod, so I will def use that technique! Flux to pads, not to wires… got it (d’oh!).

This is my first micro 2S build, so I was going to a hobby shop today to get some batteries. I have some 1300mA Bonkas that I bought to tone down my Atoms… I could test with those, but was going to need smaller batts for flight.

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Dude, those pads are huge!
Like @Brainstorm says, flux and more flux. In the case of needing to solder thick battery leads then a thinner power supply to the fc, I’d put the thick leads on first then tacking thinner ones onto those should be easy, don’t attempt to do two wires at once.
Looks to be rather poor quality if those pads are lifting, they should be the strongest on the board as they are the main power pads. Hopefully the rest of it is better made.

Super nice clean up!
my 2 questions atm are:
how to wire the osd
how to wire the motors
mine should be here today.

Figured wiring the motors didn’t matter so much… just sets of three, rotation can be set in configs… isn’t that inherent in brushless?

Saw this re: wiring OSD, but it didn’t click for me yet: http://forum.banggood.com/forum-topic-298104.html

p.s. Thanks for the reassurance on the clean-up… was worried about that.

Interesting! Didn’t realize that BG has a (support?) forum. Was going to register and claim my usual username. But it looks like the forum is tied into BG client accounts. So I’m already all set. :slight_smile:

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Here are the results of my using Kapton tape to solder the ESC:

…and here’s my first powered test:


I hate the visual of the solder job… I’ll probably redo that.

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Saw Dolby a couple times, once for the Aliens Ate My Buick tour, and another opening for BT’s This Binary Universe. Some of my fave performances!

@bubbak, I’m not sure myself. I’ve never installed pins, only depinned components before. I’m curious what I’ll decide as well.

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I continued with the ESC instructions from Banggood (link), and successfully flashed the ESCs from BLHeliSuite 16.5 (stock as delivered) to “latest” 16.6.



@burtlo: Hey, at least it fires up! And it didn’t get fried! Agree that positive terminal/red wire could use more of a blob for strength. OTOH, it’s good enough, so you might leave well enough alone. :wink:

Didn’t know Dolby still performed. Playing alongside BT, that’s like two different generations. Actually, just looked up BT’s age, and he’s not quite as young as I thought. :wink: It’s been a while since I’ve been to a live concert. Maybe time to hit Ticketmaster. Summer outdoor season is coming up. :smiley:


Working on mine now.
Found that the power in pos and neg seem ok to touch the boxes between.
So one side of the boxes is isolated from the other yet one side is pos the other neg.

I feel you on the soldering on this board.
It’s like they coated it with anti-solder film.

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How’d you determine that it was okay to touch all the boxes? I’d like to understand that component layout.

@Bobnova, any thoughts?