Excellent, that made me laugh.
I’m not sure whether you need some stiffener in there or not.
Question: Since I have the LC Filter, I don’t need the +5V or GND that was originally from the six-pin, right? Just wiring the signal wires is enough for that.
Follow-up: would there be harm in having those connected anyway?
I did a little touch-up with my Dremel for fitting the USB port from the Eachine Minicube FC. I decided to install the Pico Blx with the heavier/beefier build. I also started sanding the printed body smooth.
No harm in the ground. But you don’t want to supply power from two different places to the fc.
Big progress report:
Direct connect FC and ESC
Look! Hot glue!
FC with LC filter
Installed in frame, USB accessible
Bottom prelim battery leads
Leads from LC filter to be attached, ESC pins tinned
XT30 added, motors mounted
OrangeRx R111XN attached via stock connector
I need to double-check pinout and trim wire length
Dry fit with canopy, 38g so far
No props, no battery, no camera
Help with orientation of motors?
Motor 4, determined by BF Motors tab, is front left. Motor 3 is front right.
Aside from selecting a motor configuration layout in the BF Configuration tab, what other tools are there for re-arranging motors based on ESC orientation?
On the newest version, it’s called resource remapping and it’s sweeeeeeeet! Official instructions below… (not screwy NotFastEnuf instructions)
Before I get to that, though, I need to figure something else out. I had wired everything up, to test connections and deal with motor orientation, etc…
- two motors won’t spin
- I need to deal with my confusion about motor numbering in order to do the resource mapping
While not pretty, here are the signal wires between FC (first photo) and ESC:
NOTE: Images removed because they were totally wrong. Look below for a correct wiring image.
While I might redo them, just to be retentive, they look cleanly separated.
Here’s what I do know, the rear two motors responded as #s 3 & 4:
So, any suggestions on how to debug the two non-responsive motors?
Probably not the cause bit shouldn’t your ground be connected to the fc? Anyone else agree?
If that were the case, wouldn’t they all be non-responsive? Happy to wire it up, but thought that since I was getting all power direct from battery through LC Filter to FC, that the ground wire on that ESC connector would be moot.
You’re probably right… I was just concerned and figured I throw it out there for others to chime in on…
How sure are you on the esc (top picture above without labels - maybe that’s the fc?) pinout for the connector you removed? 2 motors not spinning, 2 pads not connected… Easy to check with a multimeter. Look for power and ground in the wrong place or confirm its on your unused pads…
I am preparing myself for a hearty “duh” moment. Great suggestion.
Perhaps you’ve heard me say before that I need to slow down. Case in point.
You’re fine. We all do stuff like that … and a lot too. (At least I do anyway)
Heck you took pictures of the problem and solved it yourself! Great job. Thanks for sharing too - makes me feel better about my own similar speed bumps in my builds! Glad I’m not the only one.
I have a suggestion. As you have access to the connections still, why not solder the signal wires to fit the motor layout rather than getting into resource mapping? Don’t get me wrong, I love resource mapping for the possibilities it opens up but if it was me I’d just solder the signal wires where I wanted them to be.
Here’s what I mean.
FC Betaflight standard layout
Esc layout as you have it and following the numbering on the esc
So from fc,
wire 1 to esc 3
wire 2 to esc 1
wire 3 to esc 4
wire 4 to esc 2
I think that would sort it out (disclaimer; I’m tired and about to fall asleep but believe it’s correct)
Thanks, @Chaotix, I’ll see how that applies now that I’ve got wires in the correct order. I’m about to connect to BF right now.
Here’s what I have now, with motors in the correct position, and quad orientation “right-side-up”. The only thing that needs adjustment at the moment is motor 4 needing to be reversed.
Ha! I forgot there was a Quad X 1234 in the selections, don’t mind me, carry on.
That’s a good one, @Chaotix. I didn’t even know such an option existed. I generally do what you suggested above, i.e. hardwire the “right” way. And I reverse motor direction by re-soldering, too. Old school.
Need to adjust voltage to the receiver since I’m using an R111XN for DSMX. Eachine Minicube FC comes solder bridged for +5V by default:
Then, wiring the R111XN to the DSMX vias:
Lastly, swapping a single pair of wires on motor 4 to get reverse rotation. Then, last bench test of all components before mounting and trimming.